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  1. #1
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    Dec 2011
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    Balwyn Nth, australia
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    Default Maximum tension reached on 14inch Carbatec at half way point.

    i have spent far too much time on this (including searches ) but have not been able to work it out.

    Problem: not enough tension available. the gauge reads 1/2 inch when spring is fully compressed.
    Thoughts included shortening the blade length, getting spring checked etc.

    BUT...none of this will help if the spring indicator reads fully compressed at that point.
    Have I done something wrong when I had this apart maybe?

    Please help...!!!

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  3. #2
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    Dec 2007
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    No bandsaw expert but some questions spring to mind.

    Has the problem just appeared ? If so what have you changed ?
    Have you changed blades and is it the correct length ?
    Doubtful, but what condition are the tyres ?

  4. #3
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    Dec 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by dabbler View Post
    No bandsaw expert but some questions spring to mind.

    Has the problem just appeared ? If so what have you changed ?
    Have you changed blades and is it the correct length ?
    Doubtful, but what condition are the tyres ?
    Nothing has changed other than trying to use 5/8 blade and it is too slack. When I first got the saw (secondhand) I just assumed the lack of easy adjustment was normal. Now i realise that if the spring is fully compressed there is NO adjustment possible. Surely they didn't design the thing with a gauge which will only go halfway.??
    I think the tyres are Ok but can't really understand how that would prevent the tensioner from tightening past midway.

    Thanks for trying to help

  5. #4
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    Default

    What model? (There've been quite a few Carbatec 14" BS's over the years... )

    Mine has a thick washer sitting between the spring and the nut. The measurement is read off the end of the spring, so if I lost that washer I'd have the same problem as you.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  6. #5
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    Dec 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    What model? (There've been quite a few Carbatec 14" BS's over the years... )

    Mine has a thick washer sitting between the spring and the nut. The measurement is read off the end of the spring, so if I lost that washer I'd have the same problem as you.
    A good question.....but the instruction manual doesn't say !! It has the tap style screw fixings on the cover if that helps.
    I am intrigued by the washer idea. Mine has a square washer at the bottom of the spring but that is all. It rides up inside the casting with the spring.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #6
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    Nov 2001
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    Default

    I was always under the impression that the guide on the back was a very rough estimate and basically useless, although I am sure it would have been sold as a feature when new.

    "Nothing has changed other than trying to use 5/8 blade and it is too slack."

    Is it possible that this blade is too long?
    Can the upper wheel be adjusted without a blade to lift it up higher? I don't have a Carbatec but I have a feeling that I have come across something similar in the past and was able to adjust the upper wheel up a little more to give more distance between the two wheels.
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  8. #7
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    If the problem manifested after a blade change, what about trying first blade again ?

    If there is possibly an additional adjustment as Sir Stinkalot suggests, that’s great but I think your 5/8” blade is longer than the one first used.

  9. #8
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    Dec 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Stinkalot View Post
    I was always under the impression that the guide on the back was a very rough estimate and basically useless, although I am sure it would have been sold as a feature when new.

    "Nothing has changed other than trying to use 5/8 blade and it is too slack."

    Is it possible that this blade is too long?
    Can the upper wheel be adjusted without a blade to lift it up higher? I don't have a Carbatec but I have a feeling that I have come across something similar in the past and was able to adjust the upper wheel up a little more to give more distance between the two wheels.
    I have thought about the blade length and have done all the calculations as suggested by Carbatec. (Supposedly 2680mm for a six inch riser) Guessing at a shorter length could possibly give me actual tension but I still run out of markings.

    I need to emphasise that cannot be the problem. Looking at the photo you can see that the spring is totally compressed (and STILL not reaching more than half the marked levels).therefore the blade length doesn't matter......it couldn't go any further however long the blade was surely? It is jammed up tight in the housing.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mumbo View Post
    I have thought about the blade length and have done all the calculations as suggested by Carbatec. (Supposedly 2680mm for a six inch riser) Guessing at a shorter length could possibly give me actual tension but I still run out of markings.

    I need to emphasise that cannot be the problem. Looking at the photo you can see that the spring is totally compressed (and STILL not reaching more than half the marked levels).therefore the blade length doesn't matter......it couldn't go any further however long the blade was surely? It is jammed up tight in the housing.
    So you have a six inch riser installed? From what I recall the riser kits were an aftermarket add on so perhaps this could be throwing out your guide readings as they wouldn't have been designed to cope with the additional 6 inches?

    Not that that solves your tension problem. As I mentioned mine is a different model to yours but if I recall correctly if the blade is removed and the tension knob undone, and possibly the tracking screw, it is possible to move the upper wheel (without applying pressure to the spring) up before locking everything into place again. When the blade is put on then you can apply more pressure. It is difficult to explain (particularly with different models) but I am sure that I have had similar issues not being able to apply enough tension and this solved it.

    If on the other hand the upper wheel is up so high that it is hitting the top of the bandsaw housing, then there is another issue. How about a photo of the upper wheel with the case open.
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  11. #10
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    Just found this on Lumber Jocks which may be of some assistance:

    Take the tension all the way down. As you let the tension out, there is a square / rectangular nut that will slowly lower from the bottom of were the spring is located. When you loosen the tension, I have noticed that the square nut may not go back into it’s slot. This will cause the spring to not take a load which will cause the blade not to tension properly. When you increase tension with the handle disengaged, take your free hand and place it on the square nut to make sure that it aligns back into its channel. Once it goes back into the channel force will start to be applied to the spring causing the red indicator to rise. You may need to re-adjust the square nut when it is out of its channel to realigned the tension. I would think that it needs to go up if it needs to be done, but I’m not sure. I hope this may solve your problem.

    Further to that ..... is it possible that the threaded rod is stripped? Zooming up into your image the small section of threaded rod viewed through the gauge seems very shiny and rounded compared to the exposed thread further down. Just throwing some ideas out there.
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  12. #11
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    I agree with Sir Stinkalot. Investigate the untensioned and bladeless position of the tension nut and see it can be reset to allow greater travel.

    I wonder if the 5/8 blade is the correct length (Carbatec website suggests this is the correct length for their 14” with riser) and the blade it replaced is a tad shorter and maybe the tensioner nut was already repositioned to suit the shorter blade ?

    As far as the guage goes - ignore it.

  13. #12
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    Sep 2010
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    If I am reading your photograph correctly, a couple of things spring to mind. Firstly, the thread does seem worn, but I don't believe this is your main issue. Secondly, the spring does not yet appear to be in a coil bind situation. Thirdly, it appears to me that the spring is only there as a means of transferring load from the square washer threaded on the rod to the slide with the wheel and tracking mechanism mounted, therefore, further travel and thus increased blade tension is possible once the spring is in coil bind.
    As others have posted, take the blade off and just see how far the slide will travel on its own or just keep adjusting the knob checking that blade tension is increasing continually. If the thread is getting tighter, but the blade is not, stop and assess the reason for this before you proceed.
    I would not use the gauge as any sort of indicator of tension and would rely more on the finger tap method, (with the saw unplugged, tap your finger on the side of the blade with your guide adjusted as high up as possible and you should get around 3mm deflection). Springs lose tension with time and the gauge may have been more of a selling feature than an actual worthwhile addition in the first place.

  14. #13
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    Dec 2011
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    Balwyn Nth, australia
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    Default trying this...

    Thanks to all. I realise now that I need to:
    1) ignore the gauge
    2) setup without blade first
    3) after measuring accurately at a half way stage (not by the gauge!!) I have concluded that it is worth trying a 2660 blade rather than the 2680 recommended.

    Thanks again.

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