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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default Mods to my hammer n4400

    Got myself a hammer n4400 a few months back and have been customizing it to suit me.
    Now I need to look at the dust collection and are interest in what you guy have found to be the best solution here. So any suggestion or links most welcome.
    Thanks

    Mods that I have done all ready are;
    Mount it on a trolley similar to the one you can buy but made it higher by using larger wheels and mounting the axle under the base as I did not want to be stooping and do the back in.
    Add a LED light inside the housing on the top blade guild and a strip LED over the table. This LED in front of the blade works really good as this light up where the line meets the blade. I used a USB retractable cable lead for the head movement to keep the cable tidy.
    The plastic insert that fits into the table around the blade I managed to break early on. Do not think it was very good when I got it????. So made a aluminum one , I had made one for a mate a few years back and he has had no problems with it so I made myself one. One thing I was able to do seeing that it made from aluminum was to increase the number and size of the holes in it for better dust sucking.
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    37
    Posts
    2,703

    Default

    Dust collection on bandsaws is always a pain, but I'm looking at taking on the advice of others and installing a 6" port on my bandsaw (same as yours) and leaving the standard 4" port open for air flow. I'm still not entirely sold on the idea of cutting a hole in my new bandsaw, but if it's going to improve it I'll definitely consider it.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    1,791

    Default

    There's a good write up in a clearvue thread written by Chris Parkes. He mention leaving the standard outlet and cutting a new larger hole to allow air in.

    Since buying my bandsaw from Chris i just leave my front door slightly ajar with a bit of offcuts instead of cutting a new hole. For now anyway

    Love the LED upgrade. Where did you get them from?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    What I have read and that make sense to me is you need a cross flow where the dust is created. On a bandsaw(BS) that is where the blade exits the timber. As I have see on other BS this would mean a port up near the bottom of the table (pic BS DE plan A) where the air could be drawn across the blade from under the table into the port. On my BS this would be good as I do cut aluminum from time to time and I am finding it being pressed into the bottom wheel rubber, this can not be good! So with the cross suction at the bottom of the table I would catch most of this and what is missed would hopefully now miss the wheel as it is suck to the right.
    The question here is if I leave in the bottom port with suck would this interfere with the cross flow by pulling some air down??? If I leave the bottom port open it would have air coming up as well as the cross flow to a lesser degree??? And if I just seal the bottom port up it will slowly fill up!!!!

    May need to put a 45 degree baffle just below the new side port with a slot for the blade to help direct the air and put a opening the bottom door for the bottom port to feed from?? What do you think?

    One of the other mods I have done to the BS was a extension table.... The other pic has a under view of how this was achieved and in the same pic you can see in the dust where I would have to cut the hole for the side port. You can also see the lower guard would also need a bit of a trim.

    delbs
    "Love the LED upgrade. Where did you get them from?"
    The LEDS under the top door are a left over LED strip from the mill lighting. The one LED that I put in front of the blade is a wide angle one that I have got in for a top secret project, it has a good white colour and is very bright. I looked at putting 3 LEDs in but one worked out much better as there are no shadows on either side of the blade.


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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rusel View Post
    What I have read and that make sense to me is you need a cross flow where the dust is created. On a bandsaw(BS) that is where the blade exits the timber. As I have see on other BS this would mean a port up near the bottom of the table (pic BS DE plan A) where the air could be drawn across the blade from under the table into the port. On my BS this would be good as I do cut aluminum from time to time and I am finding it being pressed into the bottom wheel rubber, this can not be good! So with the cross suction at the bottom of the table I would catch most of this and what is missed would hopefully now miss the wheel as it is suck to the right.
    The question here is if I leave in the bottom port with suck would this interfere with the cross flow by pulling some air down??? If I leave the bottom port open it would have air coming up as well as the cross flow to a lesser degree??? And if I just seal the bottom port up it will slowly fill up!!!!

    May need to put a 45 degree baffle just below the new side port with a slot for the blade to help direct the air and put a opening the bottom door for the bottom port to feed from?? What do you think?
    All you have read is wrong. Most are trying to use small DE's with low air flow. Things change when you have a 15" impeller driving things, accept that and you are half way there. Venting and extracting out of the lower cabinet is all you need under the table. Yes, you will get a bit of build up between the table and the cabinet but not enough to be a worry. What I found was the need for a duct above the table if using a big blade with something like a tooth per 25mm when I was rough cutting timber logs. The blade ejects sawdust above the timber and it sprays everywhere.

    The approach to use is this, run two 100mm ducts at once, one from the cabinet and one from over the top of the cutting operation as near as possible to the blade. You still won't get it all but you will get most of the stuff from the top and BTW this ejection from above the timber only happens at the beginning of the cut in my experience. I would suggest a flexible duct hanging from some sort of overhead support would be the best bet. Has the N4400 got a 5" or 4" duct on the cabinet? I would put the extraction duct up near the top of the cabinet and leave the original to be used as a vent. The air will rise through the cabinet across the blade and carry the debris into the extraction port. There is no need to butcher the cabinet, perhaps see if you can buy a port from Jet (it is a separate part) or make a nice one from metal sheet. The one on the Jet angles downward quite steeply perhaps 35 degrees or so. get the paint code from Felder and paint it to match. Delbs might take a photo of his Jet to illustrate what I mean. With two 100mm ports open you will have heaps of flow just about matching a single 150mm port.

    All the above is proven to work to my satisfaction. As I have said before most of the problems with a BS is the lack of understanding on venting the lower cabinet and most are using inadequate DE to try and do the job.
    CHRIS

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,757

    Default

    I get the most effective dust collection from a BS by just jamming a length of 4" flexy under neath the table like this.
    Mods to my hammer n4400-bs-de-plan-jpg

    I also have two other 4" flexies connected to the cabinet but they collect much less dust that the one jammed under the table.
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  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    BobL I had the same plan-B and was thinking of making a plywood box as this BS has only a 70mm space under under the table, but I will see if a flex pipe would work......
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  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    Been playing with the dust extraction on the bandsaw and I tried bobL method of jamming the flex under the table....just did not suck it...
    So I made up a baffle and side port still to give it a big test but looking good. Surprised myself at how quickly it came together. Had to make up a 120mm pipe out of a 160mm pipe, this went like clock work. the baffle made a cardboard template first. I pop riveted it all together and a squirt of no more gaps sealed it up.
    Gave myself a fright when doing a bit of trimming and a offcut when down through the insert and landed between the blade and bottom wheel...every thing jumped, thought a blade had snapped.
    On the baffle I put a vee shape block so that anything coming through the table cannot land on the baffle then slide down through the blade slot and end up between the wheel and blade....

    I will add a top cabinet suction as this will pull air up through the adjustable blade guard. I can make this independent of the bottom one and this should give me good control. I also use a lot less flex hose.

    *************************
    Next thing to make is a adjustable fence. From what I have read on forum the one that you can get with the BS is no good.
    So I have a piece of 12mm thick aluminum that I thinking of using in this project as the base.
    If you look at the images you get the idea of the lay out.
    I have put a series of hole across the base so that I can attract thing to it if I want, one of these will be a knob. The front fence will also bolt on so this can be change to suit the job.
    I will make the pointer at the back have some adjustment so it can be calibrated easily.

    So anything that needs to be added or improved........speak now.....please
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  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default mitre fence

    Completed the mitre fence today. Very happy with the results.
    Only one stuff up see oops pic for that.
    Will look at putting a wooden palm rest on it that what some of the other small hole in the base can be used for.
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  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    East Warburton, Vic
    Age
    54
    Posts
    14,138

    Default

    Nice one
    Cheers

    DJ


    ADMIN

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    Had some interest on a different thread re the mitre fence in getting one, so I am willing to make up some if anyone is interested. I would knock up a miter fence for $75 . The slab of aluminum I would get would make 6 fences. So making 6 would be tidy number to make.

    R
    vapourforge.com

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    Hi
    Have got some forum member taking up the mitre fence offer so if you are interested please let me know as I would like to make them all in one go.
    I forgot to put up a insert price....this is $15 each.If you are interested let me know by PM

    R
    vapourforge.com

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Gladstone, QLD
    Age
    71
    Posts
    478

    Default N4400 mods

    Rusel Did you receive my PM ?

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    Yes have replied woody1
    I thought I would put a serial number on each one . "S/N 002" which got me to thinking who would want a name eg; your forum name, nick name ect... also engraved?

    Just did a ruff count 4 are gone and a possible a 5th one if it will fit his table saw.

    I will come back to you all with your total cost just need to check out postage costs and let you know.

    Can you send me you postcodes please

    Thanks

    R
    vapourforge.com

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default Top exhaust port added

    Have add the top port to BS now. With the top guide been fully inclosed up into the top of the BS it works like a exhaust port right at the top of the job. You can see any dust coming of the top of the wood just lifting up into the guide tube.
    I used a 120mm flex coming off a 45 degree port on the back of BS this aimed it in the right direction to the 120mm gate coming off another 45 junction that connected to main trunk, see pic will better explain. Can not see you buy a fitting like that at the shop.
    I can tell you the back of this BS has 3mm steel it took some cutting. Next time I will have some non chinese discs will help...... are there is not a next time

    R
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