24th Jan 2012, 12:46 PM #1
Need to identify this Band Saw and get parts.
Below are some photos of a band saw I bought second hand. It is labelled as a Craftmaster CWB-350 Built 1984.8 in Taiwan. I have found diagrams of a similar saw at Sears parts online but am unsure if it is just like what I have. If I can identify something for which most parts are interchangeable then great. I am almost prepared to take a punt on the one I have to locate again on their site. (Their indexing is crap and some saws just have a model number - not even a size in the index). I can't find any source for Craftmaster band saw parts nor any references to this model.
What I like about this saw is that it has a cast iron frame and wheels.
The bearings in the top wheel are unserviceable and I will check the bottom wheel soon. The bottom wheel seems a bit too free and I will probably just replace those bearings too. The saw had some bodged dust collection that was totally useless. All bits of added on metal plate have been removed. There is only a bodgee home made guard - not shown, for the blade when travelling up and I will either have to source or make something.
The table insert is missing as is the pin to joint insert in the "two halves" of the table around the blade slot.
The motor has a noisy bearing and I'll take it to a shop when I get it out. The electrics were bodged to accomodate a light and that has been removed and the wiring will be redone. The old wiring did not exclude dust and was unsafe to my mind.
Dust collection is useless the way this saw is as there are large gaps everywhere around the covers. When the wheel covers are on, there is a gap of about 8mm between the cast iron frame and the edge of the covers. I am thinking of stick on velcro edged material to cover the gaps, a project for SHMBO.
The top guide is a block type mounted on a hexagonal post. The motor drive comes via a pulley at the back directly onto the lower wheel shaft.
I will look to get urethane tyres, bearings, the table pin, blade guide bearings, the table insert, and a new tensioning spring. It will also get some cool blocks. Any and all advice greatly appreciated. I am located in Brisbane
I expect that just taking the bearings to Bearing Service or CBC will sort that part out quite simply.
It is single speed and I am curious whether people achieve 2 or more speeds
through the use of additional pulleys and a belt tensioner or add on electronic speed control to their saws.
Regards and Thanks,
24th Jan 2012 12:46 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Advertising world
24th Jan 2012, 02:28 PM #2
26th Jan 2012, 11:45 AM #3
Sounds like you have a bit of work to do on that one but it looks a solid machine. I only hav a single speed bandsaw and it has always done what I have wanted it to do. Good luck with your search for the parts you need.Reality is no background music.
26th Jan 2012, 03:32 PM #4
Hi Grog Polymer,
I've got one of those models stamped Jan 86. It's in original condition except the wheel rubber is a bit perished and the wheels are alloy not cast iron. Interestingly the wheel covers on mine are absolutely tight all round both top and bottom. Looks like there have been improvements in the two intervening years. There is no dust collection system at all on mine.
The reason I have one of those is that it was given to me gratis by an elderly gentleman whom I helped to make some blanket boxes for his grand kids who was disbanding his workshop due to age expired reasons I use it occasionally for cutting square blanks to rounds prior to turning that's all.Previously I used to do that at school.
The hexagonal post for securing the blade guard and the top guides and roller is a crap system IMO. I find I have to adjust the guides just about every time I move the guard up or down. I've never tried to use it for board splitting as I have access to a major machine just up the road where I can do that any time in return for some free labor input. Although as you say the frame and table are excellent cast elements I'd be having a serious think about spending much dough or any time on parts for such a machine. You can buy the equivalent new ready to go for about $350.
If you go the parts route make sure you don't get rubbers for the wheels that are thicker or thinner than the original or you will upset all the alignments where the blade relates to the table slot and you will be in the sh---t. Trust me I've done it with a much bigger band saw at school that I refurbished and it's only at the very last step in the process that you realise the significance of this measurement. It's a PITA when you have to pull the wheels again and get the rubbers ground down to the diameter where they need to be. Cheers Old Pete
26th Jan 2012, 07:55 PM #5
Hi Grog Polymer
You could try this company Gregory Machinery 807 Boundary rd Richland .
Their phone number is ( 07 ) 33755100 ask for Lee . Otherwise you will have to
fine out who made your bandsaw like what I was told about mine for tyres . Your bandsaw is the same as what I have and the same colour . My bandsaw is an ISIS .If they don't have your parts they should be able to tell you where you can get them .
Cheers Graham .
29th Jan 2012, 08:20 AM #6
I got email when the first reply came in and came and read 2 replies then. I didn't realize that I would not get email notification about following posts to the thread. Sorry I had not caught up with the helpful replies.
From what I can see after much hunting on the web, it appears to be the same as a Jet model JWS-14. I am confirming this with a guy that sells manuals on ebay. You can see which manuals he has at Machine Manuals
I understand the recommendation of not spending much on it. Fixing machinery is part of the fun for me and I already bought the saw . If I start with the basic bits - bearings, tyres and guards then it will make sawdust again. I'll try Gregory Machinery for bits... many thanks.
And, many thanks for heads up on tyre thickness. Given the LHS blade guard was dodgy/ home made and that the throat insert is missing, I'm not sure the tyres that were on it are right. The wheels on mine are 345mm diameter and have a machined crowned groove of 25mm for the tyre. The crown is about 1 mm recessed from the outside wheel flanges giving an effective diameter of 343mm. The rubber tyres I took off were 3mm deep. This would give a net effective diameter of between 345 and 346 allowing for some tyre compression. The bottom one that wasn't glued had stretched and was falling off. The top one was glued. Easy cleanup for the bottom one - none, but the contact cement and rubber on the top one will be fun - not.
I think I should get the guides, a new blade and the throat insert first and then see what space there is for the tyre.
Yes the play in the lock down of the hex shaft may well see excessive guide adjustment required. I'll just have to suck it and see.
After much research on what sort of bearings to use in the wheels and as thrust bearings, I ended up getting bearings off a guy on ebay selling alternator parts. Those bearings have to run a lot longer and hotter than band saw bearings. You can buy bearings from $1 to $50. The ones I bought only cost a few $ but I checked the manufacturer out (PFI) and they should be fine.
I've also found a simple add on dust extractor that sits just under the table. I'll also be looking at a bit of brush type weather strip from Bunnings as source of a couple of brushes at a sane price. Who know's Gregory's may have them cheap anyway.
30th Jan 2012, 03:31 PM #7
It's coming together
Leigh from Gregory Machinery is seeing what they have to suit. He says the saw is quite similar to one of their old ones, Woodman BA214.
Luke from Carbatec sent me the SW-1401 manual and I have identified the parts that I want from that - he is checking availability.
Much of what I want appears to be available from Sears online if I need.
Rick from Sulphur Grove Tool has been great talking about urethane tyres - they can supply 13.5" tyres which will fit even better than the standard 14" ones and really remove the need to glue them on.
A riser kit is the question as I would need a hex saw guide support post. You get one if you buy the kit for a JET with a hex post and riser from Carter but $$$. You could always machine the other end to take the standard guide so cool blocks one end and rollers the other. Interestingly, hex rod in all sorts of sizes is available from Hobby Engineering Supplies. It would need a round machined on one end for the blade guide but it is doable.
Hindsight is wonderful. I would not need to cost the time on this a much per hour to have made it cheaper to buy a new one. Cost wise I should still be in front ... just, but inventing a dust dust collection solution will be another distraction that reduces the value. The good news is that I will have a viable 14" band saw.
1st Feb 2012, 12:59 PM #8
I went and saw Leigh at Gregory's Machinery today and got all I need for this saw. There is much rejoicing. Bearings coming in the mail, tyres on their way from Ohio. Ye ha!
26th Feb 2012, 04:08 PM #9
Bearings? CN or C3
It turns out my Craftsmaster CWB-350 Band saw is a clone of a Jet Asian built band saw JBS-14. I got a manual from Ozark Woodworker. There were a couple of interesting bits in there such as the hex carrier for the thrust bearing having the bearing support eccentric on the shaft so that you can adjust where the blade hits the bearing. Blade guards are the same as the ones for the Carbatec Sw-1401 and a pile of others.
I have replaced the bearings in the top wheel with 6202-2RS CN3. The bearings are retained by a nut at one end and there are cir-clips that control the insertion depth in the wheel. As the bearings have some pre-load because of the nut retention, I would think CN3's are a better choice than CN. Comments please.
I note that the bearings are not really an interference fit, more of a slide fit, on the shaft and am considering putting a little low-mid strength Loktite in place. I am considering Locktite 641 which sounds just the go.
Loctite ® 641™ is a controlled strength retaining compound that is ideal for cylindrical parts that require disassembly. Recommended for maximum diameteral clearance of 0.008". Fixtures in 20 minutes.
I am also going to replace the bearings for the lower wheel. These are 6204's. Again I think the CN3 variant of the 2RS bearings is the go due to pre-load from the retaining nut.
The wheels line up co-planar with the old bearings and I'll check that again before applying any loctite. There is slight evidence of bearing run, though probably not with the bearings that I took out as they show no run marks, on the shafts and that is why
I am considering the Loktite 641.
26th Feb 2012, 04:21 PM #10
If I didn't know any better I would have said it would have had McMillian on it, as it looks very much as the one I still have. Mine was built in 1987, so that coincides with yours. I have never had the slightest problem with mine, & it sure has done some work.
Hoping this may help a little.Regards,
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.
By TheAncientOne in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 4Last Post: 28th Sep 2011, 10:46 PM
By sailingamerican in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 2Last Post: 15th Jun 2009, 10:56 PM
By barrysumpter in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 12Last Post: 5th Jun 2009, 01:06 PM
By derekcohen in forum TIMBERReplies: 26Last Post: 20th Oct 2006, 09:47 AM
By JDarvall in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 17Last Post: 28th Mar 2006, 11:43 PM