Thread: Operator error. How do I fix it?

Is the bow top to bottom or along the length?

It is along the length. When I turned them over on the table, with cut side up, one length was concave, the other convex.

Have you adjusted the fence to account for the blades drift?

I am not familiar with your particular model bandsaw but the attached youtube clip gives you a basic understanding of whats involved, I would start with that.

I have (to the best of my ability) adjusted for drift.

If it were not a "curve", I might has expected drift....could be wrong.

Here are two pics of the concave piece. It was the piece on the outside of the blade.

When I lie the piece flat, I can slide the steel rule under without a problem.

It could be internal stresses in the timber that have been released during the ripping process, try another cut on some scrap and see how it looks.

Personally I only use my bandsaw for rough cutting, I never go from the bandsaw to the project I am working on. If it were me I would sticker it and leave it for as long as possible before flattening it with handplane/jointer and putting the piece to use.


I was resawing some pine on the weekend, one of my boards ended up looking like a bannana after the cut, would say it was bowed by about 15mm on a 1m board.

Originally Posted by brizylad

I have (to the best of my ability) adjusted for drift.

If it were not a "curve", I might has expected drift....could be wrong.

Here are two pics of the concave piece. It was the piece on the outside of the blade.

When I lie the piece flat, I can slide the steel rule under without a problem.

Doesn't look like a drift problem, and the pieces you have there don't look that bad, but it is a curve and has me thinking one side of the blade is just a bit more blunt than the other or a set issue, if you were to cut a longer piece and the curve went from concave to convex (wobble) I say that is more a low blade tension issue, Is the blade sharp?



Pete

The blade has only been used to cut about 10m of Qld maple and some other sundry stuff, so I would hope it would still be sharp.

I have some more of the kwila, so I might see if I can duplicate the problem. Bit busy at the moment though.


Stuart

Make sure your fence is square and do not adjust it for drift.

Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube

What size blade and number of teeth per inch are you using?

is this one of the blades with carbide teeth that are supposed to be the bees knees for resawing?

Ignore the first video and look at the second one. BS's do not have a drift angle if set up correctly.

One of the reasons for curvature out of the vertical plane is that you are pushing the timber too hard for the optimal blade cutting rate, the blade is pushed back against the thrust bearing, it is fixed in position by the upper and lower guides, and the only thing left for the blade to do is to bow out to relieve the excess pressures it is experiencing. There needs to be a reasonable number of teeth in contact with the timber, and there needs to be a decent gap between the teeth to allow the sawdust to clear, hence the question about the blade teeth above

Mods, is it possible for the link to the Snodgrass video to be made a sticky, it is the single most important tutorial on the net especially when it comes to fixing drift problems.

I agree about the second video. Very informative.

The Resaw King blade is the 1 inch version, and I'm pretty sure it has carbide tips.

As I put in the title, I believe this is operator error/setup problem. I am not blaming the saw/blade just yet.

Stuart