Thread: re-tireing a bandsaw wheel

You may find this useful: http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/110124076.pdf

I've also heard of suitably sized car inner-tubes being cut up and used for retyring...

If cut from inner tubes, take strip from "equator" of the donut, to reduce offside creeping when stretched. Inner or outer strip as appropriate to your wheel. Mold flash (tiny ridges between panels) shouldn't matter.

Joe

Have a look HERE
at the effort of one of our learned friends

I'll have to thank DavidL for the plug first. Thanks Dave!!

Forge, I've been using my bandsaw for a while and there is no appreciable damage to the rubber. I think that there may be a problem however if you are using larger blades that have a more severe set on the teeth.

Just my 2c

I've used tubes on a coupla bandsaws and found if you cut the tube section so its a tight fit on then glue is unnecessary.

Got to do my Durden b/s so I just scrounged a nice old tractor tube for it.
Tractor tubes are generally thicker than car/truck tubes

Thank you gentlemen, for all you suggestions.From your comments it seems it does not matter what sort of material the tires are made of.Since i posted the inquiry ,have spoken to some ww tool suppliers.Some has off the shelf tires the buyer stretches over the wheel.Unfortunately the biggest they had was 23".Not having access to large truck tires ' i will go with a business from W. Heidelberg.(in the fullness of time )they quoted in the low 50's per tire. I have a couple of other places to check out as well that do tires. i will let you know how i get on.
Regards

I retired my BS yesterday using WB's method but found that without glue the tyre came off during testing. I suspect this may have had something to do with the white powdery surface inside that made it slippery, next try I will turn it inside out.
I was afraid to use contact cement in case it stuck things up considering the difficulty in stretching the rubber. Perhaps rubber cement may work.

It is a fairly large wheel some these need to have new rubber vulcanised directly onto the wheel, if this is the case Woodfast machinery do this, there are most likely other companies that I am not aware of.

Lee Valley-Veritas are advertising replacement tyres for 12 and 14" BS in the current issue of Popular Woodworking. We should be able to source these from someone in OZ!?

G'day Forge,

A couple of months ago now rather than going the route of buying a tyre for my old 14" b/saw I went the route of going down to Clarke Rubber and finding a suitable rubber and cut to dimension on glued on.

It worked well, only thing I think that could've been done better, is if I had've domed to new rubber so that the blades tracked a whole lot better.

Can't comment on how the rubber is holding up as I've sold the b/saw and replaced with a new 16" from H&F.

But it worked well and saved some dosh for other stuff.

Originally Posted by Waldo

G'day Forge,

A couple of months ago now rather than going the route of buying a tyre for my old 14" b/saw I went the route of going down to Clarke Rubber and finding a suitable rubber and cut to dimension on glued on.

It worked well, only thing I think that could've been done better, is if I had've domed to new rubber so that the blades tracked a whole lot better.

Can't comment on how the rubber is holding up as I've sold the b/saw and replaced with a new 16" from H&F.

But it worked well and saved some dosh for other stuff.

Thanks for the repply ,Waldo.I do some commercial stuff, so i don't begrudge spending some money.I m just confused -as to what sort of material is best for the tire.Also now whether the wheel should be crowned or not.I got the saw for a really good price and happy to spend some money on it (it's 32"-big)it has tilt table as well.

All bandsaws used for woodworking should have crowned wheels

Interesting note on crowned wheels. I have a 12" Hyco bandsaw and the bottom (drive) wheel is crowned but the top wheel is flat. This is the profile of the wheel itself and since I used tyre tubes the rubber automatically conformed to that profile when I put them on.

I have been using the bandsaw for around 9 months since I finshed restoring it and have not had a single problem.

G'day Forge,

There was a post about month ago, maybe longer, and someone quoted from a book that they found that b/saws (predominantly, 16" and up didn't really need crowned tyres as they carried typically larger blades 3/8 and up so they due to their size tracked alot quicker, something like that) 14" had crowned wheels, this was for the reason, or like this anyway, that this was because they mainly used 1/4" blades and under. And with a 1/4" blade being the size it is that a crowned wheel better enabled tracking to the wheels.

I found this out when I replaced my bottom tyre with the new rubber, and not being crowned I had a few issues with getting the blade to track correctly.

I tried a quick search for the post but couldn't find it, maybe you can . What ws written certainly stood to reason.