Thread: Replace roller guides with Phenolic/Cool blocks?

Originally Posted by Bodgy

cause it seeks logical that the blocks will hold the blade steadier,

How come?

I have the roller guides adjusted so that they are the thickness of a piece of paper away from the sides of the blade.

One of the biggest problems I had with the graphite blocks is that they wear and so you constantly have to re-adjust the clearance. PITA.

I've not used Cool Blocks so am unfamiliar with the set-up. Are you saying that you adjust them so that they are constantly in contact with the blade?

They must wear too though don't they?

My understanding is that roller guides provide the best blade accuracy. Cool blocks (TM?) are meant to rub against the blade, and are designed to do so without undue wear. Simple graphite blocks are the least-cost option.

Cheers!

BTW, some time ago I enquired about the Electra Bbeckum (now Metabo) "precision roller guides" as an after market fitment to supercede the basic OEM rollers - but was appalled to find that they were >25% of the cost of the whole B/S when new, i.e. over $270. Stuff & nonsense on that

I have roller guides as an after market product from Woodworking Warehouse. Cost about $25 for a set of 4. Fits the square holder of the Jet, and I'm sure, heaps of other bandsaws. I interchange them depending on the blade I am using. If I am working with a 1/8" blade, then I go for the plastic guide blocks, for wider blades, the roller bearings. You simply loosen the screw holding the block itself, slip out the plastic guide and slip in the roller one.

I am interested in knowing how useful the ceramic guide blocks are that Northwood sells (guide blocks and thrust bearings). They apparently do a great job of keeping the blades clean, clean up the weld, and never wear. Not sure what happens if the teeth touch though - anyone with any experience? The guide blocks are about $25 (for 4) as well, and $35 (for 2) for the thrust bearings.

Couple of things:

I still don't understand where the mountings for the guide blocks come from? Nor if these (if available) would fit generic BSs.

CraigB, as the rollers are about 5MM wide and most of my BS blades are 10mm plus, it seems to me that the blocks will hold all of the blade, as opposed to part of it, therefore keeping it steadier.

Will stand correction here

Also for those of us suffering the vagaries of the generic Taiwan BS, I wont have to constantly adjust the roller bearings every time I alter the height of the cut, as I now have to cause the guide bearing sliding post is not parallel to the blade. Still need to adjust the thrust bearing, which I would keep as is.

Just to clarify, these are the guides I'm talking about.
Not the blocks that have ball bearings inside them.

On the Jet, the guide post is straight so there's no need to adjust the rollers if you move the guides.

If your saw has the same guides as in the picture, well then I think you'd have to buy new mounting fittings if you want to convert to blocks.

Originally Posted by craigb

If your saw has the same guides as in the picture, well then I think you'd have to buy new mounting fittings if you want to convert to blocks.

Yep, thats exactly what I can't seem to trak down.

Here are the guides I was referring to:


Original guides. (Looks dirtier than they are - just backwash from the flash from sawdust)



The packet of roller guides



The roller guides beside an original. Note that they are double bearings, giving good blade support.



The new roller guides in position. No change to the bandsaw required to fit them, and they can be easily swapped back to sacrifical blocks when needed.

Now I see the problem (was in the shed when the posts above turned up). My Jet came with square block holders, so I don't have that problem!