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Thread: Resaw blades
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19th June 2019, 02:29 PM #1
Resaw blades
My 1" Lenox Woodmaster CT has finally bitten the dust (literally, in three pieces). So, before I get another, there is the opportunity to instead get a Laguna Resaw King. These two carbide resaw blades are the top of the pops in my understanding.
I have no direct experience of the Resaw King (or other carbide resaw blades). What are your experiences with this blade, and has anyone compared the Resaw King with the Woodmaster CT?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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19th June 2019, 04:52 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Like you Derek I use and have for some years the 1" Lenox Woodmaster CT blades on my Meber 500 (~18") Bandsaw, and it has lasted years. But don't do as much rough cutting of desert species (logs) as I did once with it. I have a back-up when it finally gives in. Did you have your blade(s) sharpened professionally (before it died)?
I also look forward to hearing what others say about the Laguna blades. They are pricey at around $400 tho' but I like their very thin kerf.
Cheers, Euge
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19th June 2019, 07:49 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Derek, I bought the resaw king blade when I got my Laguna some years ago. I wouldn't have thought that I had done a lot of resawing since purchase, but maybe I lost track, and the cutting quality dropped off. I got it sharpened at a cost of north of $50 and then promptly managed to remove a few teeth on a large embedded washer. My honest thinking was that I had not really got the performance/value before the resharpen. I went to McDivans (local) and was amazed at how cheap their blade was in comparison. Still early days to say if I made the right decision in changing.
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19th June 2019, 07:56 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi
I have a Laguna 3/4 inch Resaw King. I am very happy with it. I did somehow lose a tooth but that was fixed and the blade sharpened (total less than $40 from memory). I have resawn heaps of houn pine, celerytop pine, tas oak, blackwood, merbau etc upto about 12 inches thick.
It cuts very nicely and just for fun I have cut some wafer thin pieces. I cannot compare with any other blade as I have not used any others. I will be probably buy another Resaw King when this one dies.
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20th June 2019, 12:32 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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3/4" Lennox Trimaster here from Henry Brothers, by some standards it might not have seen a huge amount of work but the finish off the blade is just awesome as some members here have witnessed. There were some issues with the Resaw King that happened early in its introduction in Oz and some here wrote about those but they seem to have gone away now. The RK has a thinner band and can be tensioned higher, it might be wise to see what the users on SMC have to say as there would be more users there.
CHRIS
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20th June 2019, 01:05 PM #6
Chris, is the Trimaster a carbide or bimetal blade? And why 3/4" for resawing - what bandsaw are you using? The finish off the Woodmaster CT is "OK", that is, it clearly needs to be finished. What does "awesome" mean?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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20th June 2019, 04:37 PM #7Member
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Reviews for the Trimaster blade seem to imply that it gives an almost glassy finish. It's pretty expensive though - a 3/4" blade sized for the N4400 is US$272-ish before shipping. Plus, Con at Felder Perth has a Woodmaster CT blade in stock if you need one Right Now (he showed me one yesterday when I picked up my shiny new N4400).
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20th June 2019, 04:51 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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It is a 3/4" Carbide tipped blade because I don't think my saw (SN45 Minimax) can tension a 1" blade and I have found that the 3/4" tensioned as strong as I can go gives a superb result. I have my doubts whether the average hobby saw can tension a 1" blade properly but keep in mind that Laguna made the RK a fair bit thinner to allow for that. A few of the forum members have used mine for resawing and were more than happy with the results and I had a bit of a get together here and did a resaw on a pretty big board to show how it went and everyone was impressed by the result. I would rather have a well tensioned 3/4" BS blade than a poorly tensioned 1" blade when it is all said and done. The CC takes a bit of a hiding but I think it is good value but not cheap by any stretch of the imagination.
CHRIS
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20th June 2019, 08:41 PM #9
I have just ordered another 1" Woodmaster CT. It is available at my local Felder agent right now, and at a decent price (about $100-150 less than a Resaw King). The CT is 1.3tpi, with the RK is 2-3tpi. This is all about speed of cutting, with the CT the faster cutter. If the finish is comparable, then speed and price tips the balance in favour of the Woodmaster CT.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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20th June 2019, 08:45 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Hope, you dont mind my comments and butting in Derek & Chris.
The Lenox Trimaster is an EXCELLENT carbide-tipped blade requirung high tension but producing the best finish reducing finish effort and time. My experience with it supports the statements ... eg quoting" " LENOX TRI-MASTER ® CARBIDE BAND SAW BLADES. PRECISION TRIPLE CHIP GRIND. Smooth cuts, excellent finish. HIGH PERFORMANCE BACKING STEEL. Excellent fatigue life. GENERAL PURPOSE BLADE. Perfect for cutting of a wide variety of materials." The exchange rate does not help! Spensy but great quailty
McDiven's price for my Meber 500 was $175 for CT blade but not a Lenox. Tempted to try one.
Euge
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20th June 2019, 11:08 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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The more opinion the better Euge. The one big advantage of the RK is that it has a narrower kerf than most if not all other carbide tipped blades and I guess that counts when the wood being cut is expensive or hard to come by. Here is a series of photos along the length of a board straight off the saw...
IMG_2281.jpgIMG_2282.jpgIMG_2283.jpgIMG_2284.jpgIMG_2285.jpgCHRIS
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22nd June 2019, 01:49 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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I haven't ever used a lennox or other 'good' resaw blade apart from the laguna (both the RK and the non-carbide version).
Can confirm the RK gives a great cut with very thin kerf. I had some issues with a couple of blades snapping, but my guess is that was due to my small bandsaw (a 14" laguna) - my suspicion is laguna was a little optimistic with how big a band could wrap around 14" wheels without fatiguing. Only a guess though!
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23rd June 2019, 01:04 AM #13GOLD MEMBER
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Henry Bros supplied my Lennox blade and I decided it was a really good idea to forget how much it cost. A quick call will tell you if you have to extend your CC but I think it was in the order of $350'ish for my 18" blade. I originally was going to buy a RK so I rang Gregory's and asked for a price and was told they did not have one at the length for my saw and didn't know how long it would take to get one. I asked if they had a longer one, yes was the answer and I suggested they could cut it down. The chap on the other end of the phone said they had never thought of that and I must admit I began to wonder about the whole thing in light of their earlier problems and then rang Henry Bros.
CHRIS
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23rd June 2019, 01:24 PM #14Senior Member
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Out of interest, where are you positioning the blade on the tire of your n4400’s for your 1” resaw blades? I have been cautious to push the teeth back onto the rubber due to concern about the tire, but I’m not happy with the tension on the front of the blade. I think the “snodgrass” method that references having the teeth in the middle of the tire would be mostly for crowned wheels, not flat wheels like the hammer/felder sized saws?
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Out of interest, where are you positioning the blade on the tire of your n4400’s for your 1” resaw blades? I have been cautious to push the teeth back onto the rubber due to concern about the tire, but I’m not happy with the tension on the front of the blade. I think the “snodgrass” method that references having the teeth in the middle of the tire would be mostly for crowned wheels, not flat wheels like the hammer/felder sized saws?
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23rd June 2019, 01:43 PM #15
Austin, I tried to experiment with blade position, but the N4400 only know one placement. It seems to resist moving the blade around. So I sit the blade on the centre, spin it a few times, and it seats itself securely, with the teeth at the front (from memory). As far as I am concerned, as long as the blade is tracking coplanar to itself (that is, is not moving back-and-forth on the wheels but retaining its position), then it is good. There is no "support" for a bandsaw blade from the wheels at the point of cutting. The proof of the pudding is that I do not have tracking issues.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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