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  1. #16
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    I have noticed that most of us here in this thread are not sure to what is the right tpi for the blades we are using in cutting various types of wood. I am trying to learn about it. I have been reading blogs about band saws, blade speed and feed relations and etc. Maybe it would be useful for everyone if I would share to you the blogs I read. Surely it can help us educate ourselves more especially about band saws or band saw blades. If you have time, you can visit bandsawblog.com.

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  3. #17
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    Nov 2011
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    Orange Park, FL USA
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    Default Band Saw Blades

    Do a search for re-sawing go to You Tube and search for Alex Snootgrass. He has a video on setting up a band saw so it can be used properly and re-saw without drift.
    I set up my 14'' Delta and using a 1/2'' 3tpi blade re-sawed Live Oak with no drift and the cut was very smooth. On has to accept that re-sawn lumber will have to be sanded or hand planed.
    I am not familiar with your saw, but to mine I added a new higher tension spring and that made a great difference. Just remember that tension is critical but don't over tension it. Again the video will show you how to check for tension.
    Feed rate is important. If your saw makes an odd noise you are probably going too fast.Use a feather board to keep the piece against the fence. Make your own re-saw fence that is at least 6'' tall and make sure it is square. Start out with softer lumber until you get a feel for it.
    Reduce friction on your table. I have used talc/baby powder/corn starch. The are cheap and very effective. Again watch the video. If you start out right you will lessen the chance of getting dicouraged.
    Let us know how you make out or if you have any questions.

  4. #18
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    Aug 2009
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    Armadale Perth WA
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    Some of the things he says are a bit contra standard opinion, but Hermit and others are big fans ...

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU]Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube[/ame]

  5. #19
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    And I have noticed that many members from different forums recommend this video by Alex Snootgrass. We can’t deny that Alex is a respected expert in band saws. I have seen this video a couple of times already and this video is really good!

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Australia, VIC, Cranbourne
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    90

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    Hey guys im new at this bandsaw lark. I just watched that vid,(thanks for the link) I noticed when making the deer he was using a 1/4" blade and getting what seemed like better than 20mm radius cuts. (which is the best Ive managed on mine so far) From what he was saying it sounded like this was due to replacing the bearing guides with this grooved guide. This I can understand re the change in pivot point.

    To my thinking, min radius is governed by the kerf/cut width and blade width. But I can see that allowing it to pivot from the back rather than the sides would make it easier to twist n follow.

    So do I need to run out and get a rear grooved guide? or is the difference only chasing the last little bit. Is it possible to set up the bearings way back on the blade and achieve the same or at least similar thing?

  7. #21
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    If I remember correctly, there was also no lower guide on that machine.

    Cheers,
    Paul

  8. #22
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    That many ways of setting up. Tomorrow will try Alex's method. Seems the simp0lest and most effective.

  9. #23
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    boston
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    Before you order a new blade, try cutting with your 3tpi blade first and see the results. If you’re fine with it, then I think you wont need a new blade. But if you want to achieve finer cuts, I recommend you to use a 2tpi blade because of the larger gullets. And maybe you need more information about blades and stuff, you can read blogs at bandsawblog.com. It has been my source for great information.

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by bosox View Post
    Before you order a new blade, try cutting with your 3tpi blade first and see the results. If you’re fine with it, then I think you wont need a new blade. But if you want to achieve finer cuts, I recommend you to use a 2tpi blade because of the larger gullets. And maybe you need more information about blades and stuff, you can read blogs at bandsawblog.com. It has been my source for great information.
    Less tpi and larger gullets cuts won't be a finer cut ...
    Did you mean to say faster?
    Cheers,
    Paul

  11. #25
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    I mean satisfactory cutting results. Does it mean that the lesser the tpi, the faster the blade speed is?

  12. #26
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    Sorry - I misunderstood.

    For the same blade speed, more teeth-per-inch means
    - small nibbles more often, vs
    - large chomp chomp chomp.

    Think of a dovetail-saw vs a big hand-saw.

    But re the finish, I'm thinking about how most handsaws are over-set.
    I wonder if that is true with bandsaw blades?
    I haven't read much about that aspect.

    A finely set handsaw leaves a fine surface, and I don't think that the set on bandsaw blades is often looked at or talked about.

    Set is obviously there for a reason, but I'd like to know more about it.

    Cheers,
    Paul.

  13. #27
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    The tooth set of every band saw blade should be an important aspect to care about. I found this blog from bandsawblog.com - Tooth Types - Tooth Sets | BandSawBlogBandSawBlog . Hope this helps!

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