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Thread: You just got to try this.
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27th May 2013, 05:03 PM #1
You just got to try this.
As the title says try this. I came on this today via the forum just having a casual look around. Not sure if it was a direct link or I got side tracked. I could not find the link on the forum again. If anyone here posted it then thanks.
I have looked at hundreds of howtos on utube and uasually that is it. This looked easy and worth a try so I ducked out to the shed and gave it a go on a blade that was starting to loose it. I have to say it cuts like nothing I have ever had on my bandsaw before. I am more than pleased with the result. It is all free hand so I dont know how often you can resharpen and keep the set and tooth profile but even one time has saved the cost of a blade. Each time will mean less set and less gullet to clear the sawdust but I think I should get away with 2 sharpens per blade. I used the standard grey wheel and just toutched the back of each tooth very lightly to make a slight secondary bevel.
Check out the video. Now that I have tried it I can say it works.
Regards
John
Sharpening a Bandsaw Blade - YouTube
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27th May 2013 05:03 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th May 2013, 06:11 PM #2Senior Member
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That's a great piece of information there John,incredible on how much quicker the saw cuts,thanks for putting the link up...
Mick!!!
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27th May 2013, 06:20 PM #3
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27th May 2013, 06:33 PM #4
Good stuff
Certainly worth a try before throwing an old blade out.
Provided you take minimal material off, would this work with the (very popular) 1/2" 3 tpi bi-metal blades from Henry Bros? I'll be using a fairly fine white alox wheel on the grinder.
Cheers
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27th May 2013, 08:46 PM #5
Excellent link thanks John
Regards Rumnut.
SimplyWoodwork
Qld. Australia.
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27th May 2013, 09:13 PM #6
I did it on a 3tpi and I guess if you have the motor skill and eyesight then perhaps down to 5 tpi. It worked really well on a grey wheel that is the bog standard wheel on grinders. In have a white wheel for the turning tools that would give a better finish but as this was a first try I was not game to risk it. However seeing as it is a very light toutch to the stone I would try the white stone next time and I think that way perhaps get more sharpenings out if a blade. I am thinking that this system needs a closer look with perhaps some jig ideas. A stone could be ground to do the gullet shape and in theory a bandsaw blade could be sharpened many times. Of course setting would then be required. Something to think about.
Regards
John
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27th May 2013, 09:18 PM #7
Sometime back, I posted a thread about band saw sharpening. I simply immersed blunt blades in a trough of vinegar for two days. They come out clean and as sharp as a new blade. I have some here that have been "sharpened" 5 times. Much easier and allows you to continue with other activities. I have sharpened files this way too.
JimSometimes in the daily challenges that life gives us, we miss what is really important...
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27th May 2013, 10:23 PM #8
I am all for eazy. I will try it. In have heard of files being treated this way but thought it was only a one off treatment.
Regard
John
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29th May 2013, 06:07 AM #9
That's a great way of sharpening band saw blade. Cool video.
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29th May 2013, 06:23 AM #10
Tried it. Works. Don't think I'd do a new blade but.
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29th May 2013, 07:06 AM #11
There's some other methods and videos in these threads ...
Cheers,
Paul
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/ba...pening-160396/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/ba...pening-159867/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/ba...pening-159918/
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29th May 2013, 10:26 AM #12
There does look like many ways to skin this cat. I have used a chainsaw file in the past but that is no good on the bimetal blades.
I am still wondering about set as after a few sharpens it will be all gone. Has anyone had a go at that or got any info.
Regards
john
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29th May 2013, 12:52 PM #13
What size of blade do you mean?
The chainsaw file was very good on a 1" wide 1.25tpi blade, and the set wouldn't be gone for many sharpenings.
Maybe on a small width blade the teeth would disappear or lose shape before the set was a problem?
You could reset a 1/4" blade (eg) with a sawset or a hammer if you were that way inclined
Youtube has videos of commercial machines - motor driven and hand-operated.
Cheers,
Paul
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16th June 2013, 07:15 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Have to try this as well.
Just bought a new (old) 14" Carbatec, and even though the seller stated that it had never been used since he bought it (1998), it just doesn't seem to cut as I would have liked. Possibly an old rusty blade, or maybe my expectations are too high - first bandsaw.
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16th June 2013, 09:37 PM #15.
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Good idea but the guy labours the point a bit, vid could have been 1/4 the original length and contained the same level of info.
What's the highest TPI that anyone has done with this method?