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  1. #1
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    Default TTI 14" Bandsaw (BAS 350) sleeper resawing with extension bed

    Hi All,

    I thought I would throw this up as a testiment to just how capable a 1 1/2hp 14" bandsaw can be (with a few additions). They have been labled as toys in some cases and can be overlooked as a very capable starting point without having to go to a much more expensive 17" or larger machine.

    I am re-sawing ~30yr old sleepers for our dining room table and their starting size is 2.4m x 200 x 70-80mm thick. All of them are hardwood of the red unidentified variety. I have used a bit of redgum and jarrah and these look closer to red box than either of these two. (guessing they would have grown here in Qld, any tips would be appreciated) The flash photos have put the colour off a bit so I might put some more up later in better light.

    I built an extension bed and fence to support the sleepers and give more stability than using roller supports or similar. The fence is fixed to the base, and the whole assembly is moved in and out to set the width of rip. I know others here use a pin rather than a fence to rip with, so they can angle the work into the cut and adjust for any run-off if the blade starts pointing one way or the other. All I can say is that I have not had to go that far as yet, the blade just cuts. It works so well I am quite comfortable running these through by myself (well as comfortable as you can be manhandling 20kg chunks of wood).

    Attachment 178269 Attachment 178270 Attachment 178277

    It is held to the table with screws and blocks underneath, but once they strip out I will replace them with proper knobs with bolts recessed from the top.

    Attachment 178271 Attachment 178272

    I am using a 3/4" 3tpi skip tooth blade from C&S Saw Service in Melbourne as do many others here.

    The trial cut was in an offcut 600 long, 180 wide, 75 thick. With the added 19mm from the extension, this is absolute max depth for this saw and it handled it fine. There was very little wander from the blade itself. I ran it over the buzzer a few times just to check out the figure. There might be 1mm in deviation accross the lenght which I am very happy with.

    Attachment 178273 Attachment 178274

    There is a 4" dust port at back behind the bottom wheel. This does not work and most of the dust just whirls around inside the enclosure and gets stuck in the belt and between the wheel and blade. Collecting at the source with this added chute helped a lot. It is not ideal, but it is getting about 80%. I will attack some softdrink bottles and extend it up a bit to be closer to the blade.

    Attachment 178275 Attachment 178276

    The rest of today was spent cutting off the excessively weathered/cracked sides and bringing the sleepers back to 160mm wide.

    Attachment 178278 Attachment 178279

    I put a new blade on today and it is still cutting like it did first up. 1 cut 180mm x 600mm, 6 cuts 1.7m x 75mm thick (not all sides of the pile of 4 have been cut yet). I will be very interested to see how long it lasts, and how it behaves once it starts to dull.

    I hope this encourages anybody eyeing off a second hand 14" saw wondering how far it can be pushed. Mine cost me $250 off eBay and I have never looked back. The new blade was $25 and at that price I am happy to keep a couple on hand for a quick changeover when the inevitable rock or nail comes through with recycled work.
    Cheers,
    Shannon.

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  3. #2
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    very nice piece of work, Robomaniac.

    well written and illustrated too. good luck with the rest of the project.


    Doug

  4. #3
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    Thanks for posting, well done

  5. #4
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    Thanks guys.

    A couple of things I forgot to mention;

    - I used an old tin of Organoil furniture wax that got contaminated with rust from the tin to wax down the surfaces. Without it, the weight of the wood, its rough surface and the downforce of the blade almost pinned the work to the table. With two liberal coats of wax they run through much more easily. I am not worried about glue contamination because they will still be put through the thicknesser before glueing.

    - As much as I like the hard face ply for its tough surface and overall stiffness, the dark colour does make it difficult to see when the pieces are wandering off the fence. The is no visible shadow to go by. The result is extra effort pushing the stock back against the fence just to be sure.
    Cheers,
    Shannon.

  6. #5
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    Tamworth, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robomanic View Post
    Thanks guys.

    A couple of things I forgot to mention;

    - I used an old tin of Organoil furniture wax that got contaminated with rust from the tin to wax down the surfaces. Without it, the weight of the wood, its rough surface and the downforce of the blade almost pinned the work to the table. With two liberal coats of wax they run through much more easily. I am not worried about glue contamination because they will still be put through the thicknesser before glueing.
    CRC dry glide is awesome for this if you run out of wax, I use it on a lot on machine surfaces at work.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aerenandmel View Post
    CRC dry glide is awesome for this if you run out of wax, I use it on a lot on machine surfaces at work.
    Thanks for the tip
    Cheers,
    Shannon.

  8. #7
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    A quick update. The additional table is still going strong, the added dust port is really working but the blade is on it's last legs. Two out of three is not bad I guess. Oh, and I still haven't tripped the overload.

    At one stage the 4" hose was falling off the port too often so I took a step back and stuck it back on the original port. I was also interested to see if I was just going crazy last time. After one cut dust had compacted under the blade again throwing the balance way out and causing a lot of vibration in the top assembly as the blade pulled tighter and released multiple times per revolution. Never again will I use the bottom port. Collecting at the source really has helped.

    I have split two more sleepers. Each cut was ~160 deep x 1700 as before. On the last one the drive wheel tyre was slipping, causing lots of issues. Cutting this depth in hardwood with a blade that is starting to dull is the absolute limit of this machine's capabilities. I could not put any more tension on the blade because that pulled the top wheel down, then I had no more tracking adjustment left to account for that movement. I got through the last cut but it was feed, jam, feed, jam. The last 8" took 5min of nursing. After pulling the drive wheel to clean up the tyre, I found lots of little scuffed and rolled bits of rubber acting like rollers underneath. With all these out and the tyre seated nicely again, it is cutting well.

    With the same tired blade it still cuts at 100 deep happily enough. I have since cut;
    1/ side rail 75 deep x 1700 long
    4/ legs 80 deep x 770 long (plus waist cuts)
    5/ cross rails 75 deep x 1100 long
    2/ end facias 100 deep x 1100 long

    A few pics just to give a bit of an idea.







    I did drop the speed down to do what is listed above. I could not have gotten this far without either a new sharp blade or 2hp motor to drive it through. The compromise was to drop the speed and I was surprised that the feed rate did not suffer much at all. The finish off the blade is very good with far less chatter than before. There is far less set on the teeth than before too...

    I have one more long rail to cut and just for kicks I'll see if I can get it without changing blades. After that I'll change it out because it is starting to bur up just a little on the back.

    If anyone has any suggestions or questions please just jump in anytime.

    Thanks,
    Shan.
    Cheers,
    Shannon.

  9. #8
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    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
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    Take the burr off the back of the blade with an oil stone.

    We "chamfer" the backs of all new blades this way.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Hi all,
    here is another version of an extension bed for BAS 350. (white space is family member removed from image)

    Also note modified easier to use tension handle.

    cheers
    conwood

  11. #10
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    Will do . I'm asuming you do that the 'quick' way rather than the 'slow' way?

    Thanks for sharing Conwood. I see it suffers from flat surface syndrome as well. If I leave mine too long, it collects all kinds of objects on their way into or out of the family car.... Best just to leave it covered in offcuts and dust as natures way of saying stay away
    Cheers,
    Shannon.

  12. #11
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    Dec 2004
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    Brisbane
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    Hi Shannon,
    Extension is only on when I do long jobs..logs etc.
    Cars have not been in shed for a few years now..woodworking has taken over and SWMBO not complaining!

    My flat surfaces attract amber fluid containers.

    I do get both cars in when there are storms about.

    cheers
    conwood

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 1999
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    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
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    Default

    Will do . I'm asuming you do that the 'quick' way rather than the 'slow' way?
    Yep.


    (white space is family member removed from image)
    I know some people that wish they could do that in the real world.

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