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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Shailer Park, Brisbane
    Age
    42
    Posts
    571

    Default TTI/BAS 350 tune-up

    Hi all,

    After stooging around for weeks I finally got my hands on the TTI version of a BAS 350. I am very happy with it but it needs some improvements. I will be working on these over time and keeping this thread updated as I go.

    To be looked at:
    - Blade tensioning assembly
    - bottom blade guide assembly
    - table finish/smoothness
    - switch dust build-up
    - bottom table trunion (bad casting)
    - others as i think of them

    For now i just thought i'd post a pic of the switch assembly. It was having trouble engaging and I know this has been mentioned here before but i did not expect to see this :

    Attachment 91544
    Cheers,
    Shannon.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    464

    Default

    I had to replace the switch within the warranty period.

    cheers
    conwood

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Shailer Park, Brisbane
    Age
    42
    Posts
    571

    Default bottom casting and table finish

    Hi all,

    Today I repaired the bottom trunnion casting and dressed the cast iron table. A new casting is $10 (which gives some indication to its lack of bulk and quality) so instead of purchasing another I re-built this one to be stronger than the original. I would have liked to see more material in the flange and a generous fillet in the corner to distribute the stress.

    An 80 grit flap disk on the 4" angle grinder made short work of the stand offs left on the casting to give me a flat face to work off. These are 3mm high anyway so bonding a 5 plate to this is only going to push the table back by 2mm. The ribs in the casting were drilled and tapped then epoxy was used to bond the two parts together. Extra unbrakos were used up at the place were the flange broke out.

    Attachment 91884 Attachment 91883 Attachment 91885 Attachment 91886

    The table finish was left with the usual ridges from the fly cuter, and it was flat so this was a good place to start. I would not bother trying to straighten a warped table - too much headache (but it can be done)

    Again using the 80 grit flap disk because a regular grinding disk is far too aggressive, I carefully took the peaks of the ridges using the botom of the groves as a guide. By keeping the marks against the light I could see that I was working down to their bottoms and stopped just before loosing them. After that I used a coarse honing stone to polish them smooth.

    It is a little patchy but it is far smoother that before and material is a lot easier to maneuver. (not to mention that there is now no paint and blobs of who knows what stuck to the surface). The pics show the work in progress for comparison but I did treat the entire table.

    Attachment 91889 Attachment 91890

    I fitted a new set of bearings which cut the noise down drastically, but after getting into some green blanks and having the sap build up very badly on the blade and bearings, I think I will go for some oil soaked wood guides. I am planning to cut fine slots in the face at about 30-45 deg down from horizontal so that as these slots scrape the blade the sap is self clearing to the back. Or at least that is the plan.

    To be continued...
    Cheers,
    Shannon.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Shailer Park, Brisbane
    Age
    42
    Posts
    571

    Default Loose Wheel Rubbers?

    I threw a blade and rubber belt on the saw a couple of weeks ago and could not see why. The blade was not tracking hard against the thrust bearing, but running it with the top cover open (done at my own risk of course) revealed that the rubber would flap when the wheel spun up from the centripetal force I guess. The wheels are crowned, not the rubber itself so basically the rubber was slipping out from under the blade, then getting far enough to bind and throw the whole assembly off.

    I fixed it by smearing a little contact adhesive down and bonding the rubber to the wheel. It does not look like the rubber was ever bonded down before and it stretches over pretty hard and I would have thought that would be enough.

    Anybody had this kind of problem before and how did you fix it? Maybe I am missing an underlying cause but the wheels are aligned and the band does track without guide support.

    Sorry no pics because I had a job to do at the time...
    Cheers,
    Shannon.

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