WIP - Restoration of an 1960's (?) Toolmac 14"" Taiwanese Bandsaw

**GarciaJ** · 13th September 2012, 02:09 AM

So I guess this saw is nothing really special, but it was being thrown away and (knowing that I didn't have one) my dad rescued it from a rubbish bin.

The tap handle nuts for the blade covers and the table tilt adjustment are pretty quaint. The table is functional, but is not cast iron, so no magnetic fences possible here. Also the edges of the table are rounded so after market aluminium fences will be hard to fit

. Never mind - will make some old fashioned wooden ones attached with "G" style fence clamps later. All in all it's a pleasant looking machine (pictures 1 and 2)

First thing I did when I got it home is dismantled it and gave everything a good vaccum and wipe. Got rid of years of caked in saw dust. Took out the drive belt and turned on the motor - switches working - seems to run smoothly - So the motor is a keeper.

The guides are of the "cooling block" type. There isn't any adjustment for where the guides will run against the blade (this should be set just behind the gullet of the blades teeth, to give the blade good support as its running (Picture 3 )- might have to fix that by enlarging the guide support mount from the hole it currently is into a slot which will allow back-forward adjustment. The back support ball bearings for both the top and bottom assembly were stiff (Pictures 4 & 5). Bit of oil and kerosene fixed that - now running really freely. Bottom bearing assembly is OK, but there is a hairline crack on it - note to self: don't tighten too hard. (Picture 5)

The wheels are OK and run smoothly when spun, but the tyres were cracked and had thick spots. Ordered some urethane tires from Sulphur Grove Tool ordered three assorted blades (total $92 including shipping) while I was at it. Fitted the tires in accordance with instructions, and fitted the widest blade with the most TPI in accordance with recommendations posted elsewhere in this forum. There is no blade tension indicator, so I tightened the blade until excessive blade vibration disappeared and then gave the tension knob an extra full turn. Pictures 6, 7 and 8

Assembled the table and adjusted the guide assemblies (again as described in another post here) as best I could in the absence of a back forward adjustment on the top cooling block assembly. I got it pretty well by a combination of fiddling with the guide assembly and adjustment of the blade tracking (without compromising too much on the position of the blade on the top tire.

Fit the table back on and gave it a try: shaved a 5 mm section from a 32 mm off cut to make a veneer that is ~ 110x150x4 mm. Then I cut three approximately 25x25x150 sticks (Pictures 9,10,11) (to check how smooth a cut a 4 TPI blade will make on a 1 " section of timber.

The cut is a bit rough (wish I had asked for a blade with more TPI), but the timber ran true and cutting was fast, considering I was putting the blade through 110 mm of timber and that I was not being very careful. The cuts are uniform and straight.

Future:

1- Stop some rattles by putting spacer bolts on the top of the top cover and towards the bottom of the bottom cover.

2- a couple of more blades with more TPI? = slower but smother cuts, especially on thin stock.

3- new top and bottom bearing assemblies? Need to be careful - not sure that this saw is worth spending too much money on given that a brand new 14" saw can be had for $600 or so.

Any thoughts/advice welcome...

**fineboxes** · 13th September 2012, 08:56 AM

Looks fine, from the date stamp it would appear to be 1987. I had a similar one for 25 years before upgrading.
You can buy roller blade guides for about $30.00 I found they gave the blade far more stability.
Put it on ebay and you'll get $200.00+.
Good find DAD!

Cheers

Steve

**GarciaJ** · 13th September 2012, 05:10 PM

Originally Posted by fineboxes

Looks fine, from the date stamp it would appear to be 1987. I had a similar one for 25 years before upgrading.
You can buy roller blade guides for about $30.00 I found they gave the blade far more stability.
Put it on ebay and you'll get $200.00+.
Good find DAD!

Cheers

Steve

Thank you for the reply, Steve. The only after market guides that I have been able to find on the net go for $90 AU and the bottom ones mount on the saw on the wrong side, which means having to drill and tap the saw frame itself if I buy them. Might still buy those even at that price.

Good find indeed! Dad is a chippy from way back and is now retired, but still works in a Smith Family workshop. Inspired by this family history and a need to "meditate" I build furniture pieces as a hobby. Dad knew I did not have a bandsaw and jumped when this one was being discarded. Having this tool now opens up all sorts of possibilities, like cutting the thin panels required for making a lute!!!

**GarciaJ** · 13th September 2012, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by fineboxes

Looks fine, from the date stamp it would appear to be 1987

Dah! I was wondering when the saw was made and looked at the label a few times, even photgraphed it! But do I notice the date of manufacture? of course not! Mabe I really wanted the saw to be as old as I am and unconciously blocked evidence to the contrary!

!

**Acco** · 13th September 2012, 05:34 PM

Going by the pics you've put up of the sawn timber I don't think a finer TPI is going to make much difference, that is a very good finish for a bandsaw

**GarciaJ** · 13th September 2012, 08:50 PM

Originally Posted by Acco

Going by the pics you've put up of the sawn timber I don't think a finer TPI is going to make much difference, that is a very good finish for a bandsaw

Thank you for this post too Acco, I don't yet know what a good finish is for a bandsaw, I am used to the clean finish that my table saw provides with a high tooth count tungsten carbide blade.Having said that, the pictures don't show the sawmarks too well.

**vk4** · 13th September 2012, 09:28 PM

Excellent restoration, and the set up is very good, the thin slab is neat and not tapered , the tooth marks are not excessive and the cuts are good.

Jeff
vk4

**bosox** · 14th September 2012, 03:33 AM

I agree, Jeff. It’s really an excellent restoration.

**GarciaJ** · 19th September 2012, 09:51 PM

Hi Jeff, bosox

It was your encouragement in another thread that made me decide to start this one. thank you again for your latest comments.

Others may be interested to know Sulphur Grove Tools recommendation for a "starting set" of saw blades (I bought these at the same time that I bought the replacement tires)
:
93.5" X 1/2 X 0.025 - 4 tpi
93.5" X 3/8 X 0.025 - 3 tpi
93.5" X 3/16X 0.025 - 4 tpi all Flexback made by Olson.

Today I ordered Carbatec's deluxe (all bearing) blade guides for 14" bandsaws. refurbishing the existing ones is not really a viable option especially considering the crack through the bottom guide assembly. I'll report on that when I fit them. I expect to have to drill and tap the saw frame because the Carbatec bottom guides mount on the left hand side with respect to the blade and the existing guides mount on the right hand side.

After all that, I figure that my saw will be worth borrowing!

**bosox** · 20th September 2012, 06:20 AM

It’s good to hear from you again, Garcia. Did I ever suggest you this video - http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=34055 ? Good luck in restoring your Dad’s find!

**GarciaJ** · 20th September 2012, 10:33 PM

Originally Posted by bosox

It’s good to hear from you again, Garcia. Did I ever suggest you this video - http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=34055 ? Good luck in restoring your Dad’s find!

Nice! I looked at Alex Snodgrass's video at Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube. Alex has a lot to sayabout the position of the blade on the tire which appears to be controversial. The video you shared seems to take a much calmer approach and the importance of each setting is not overstated. While setting up as I described earlier I took the Snodgrass advice with a grain of salt and ended up doing pretty much as the presenter in the video in your link recommends! Snodgrass seems to know his tuff though, I like the way he checks that the blade is square with the table..

One question... with ball bearing guides, should there still be a clearance between the sides of the blade and the left and right guide or should the bearings be rolling against the side of the blades even when nothing is being cut?!

**GarciaJ** · 22nd September 2012, 01:41 AM

Originally Posted by GarciaJ

One question... with ball bearing guides, should there still be a clearance between the sides of the blade and the left and right guide or should the bearings be rolling against the side of the blades even when nothing is being cut?!

Never mind... I looked at the Snodgrass video again... want a very very small clearance between the bade and all bearings. No touchies!!!

**bosox** · 25th September 2012, 08:16 AM

Sorry for the late reply,man! You’re right, a very little gap should be present between the blade and the roller bearings. Snodgrass should have told the reason why in his video.

**GarciaJ** · 29th September 2012, 04:14 PM

This is the next installment on progress of this restoration, unfortunately it's a set back.

I had been looking at Carbatec's deluxe guideset for 14" bandsaws Deluxe 14" Guide Set : CARBA-TEC

I went to the Canberra Timber and Working With Wood Show and asked about them but they did not have a set with them... The attendant said that I might have to drill and tap the saw base because the set mounts on the opposite side to most saws - He turned out to be right and I think I can do that. However the attendant assured me that the top bearing would be OK and fit straight out of the box.

I bought the guide set and it arrived last Monday. I decided to begin fitting it to day but soon realised that the top guide set does not fit either.
The bearings will not reach the saw blade, not even when the guide position adjustment is fully extended.

Unfortunately, making a goose neck for the guide set height adjuster is beyond my skills and and my tools...

Hoping that Carbatec will agree to a refund or an exchange for something else.

**GarciaJ** · 15th October 2012, 10:26 PM

Carbatec have agreed to accept the return of the Deluxe Blade guides even though their returns policy says that they don't. Thanks guys if you are reading this. To anyone thinking about upgrading their old saw, these seem to be well built and inexpensive for the quality, they just don't fit my saw otherwise I am sure that they would be a geat upgrade.

Due to inexperience I did not notice it before but the top guide in my saw is in really bad shape. Someone has sawn the side of the guide block off and simply bolted the guide bracket on - therefore the guides cannot be adjusted backward or forward. I thought that that's how the guide assembly was on this saw from factory, but thats not true.

I founda guide set for JET 14" bandsaws in a USA website, but the cost of all the bits and pieces and postage it comes to $260 - ouch. Does anyone know where I can get JET bansaw guides in Australia? even second hand ones?

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WIP - Restoration of an 1960's (?) Toolmac 14"" Taiwanese Bandsaw

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