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  1. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    Ah excellent. So that would grip the bearing around the outer sleeve?

    Haha this will be the 3rd bearing removal tool I've bought for this machine now [emoji23]

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  3. #107
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    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    The thin centre section will fit between the bottom of the bearing and the washer.

  4. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    The thin centre section will fit between the bottom of the bearing and the washer.
    Ah cool, I hadn't noticed the centre was thinner.

  5. #109
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    Oct 2013
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    Perth, Australia
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    Finally started removing tape from some of the smaller parts today! Some definitely turned out better than others but I'm happy overall.

    Have the back part of the case about 90% done with paint now, just need to touch up some rough spots on the inside. All parts and wheels are done, just letting them cure a few more days before I pull the tape. Only thing left now is painting the front section of the case and I'll finally be done with paint. After that it's fixing up the motor and sorting out the rubber on the wheels.










  6. #110
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    Oct 2013
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    Guide bearing assembly all done!


  7. #111
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    Oct 2013
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    Last couple of days have been spent cleaning up the end bells of the motor and trying to get a stubborn screw out. Wound up cutting the head off as it was so mangled, damned screw was made of butter. Probably have to drill it out and retap it but I'll worry about that later. Still need to order the varnish, winding cleaner and bearing pullers but that will have to wait till later in the week.





    I need a new pulley for this motor as the shaft is a different size and I realised the ones it came with might not be the right ones for the job. After doing some research it seems like 500-1000 surface feet per minute is what I need for wood and from what I've calculated the original set up was way off that.

    Using the 2" motor pulley + 4" drive pulley on bandsaw + 10" diameter bandsaw wheels the calculator at vintagemachinery.org tells me 1864 sfpm.

    Calculate Band Saw Surface Feet per Minute (SFPM) | VintageMachinery.org

    So I went back and looked at the pulley that was on the saw that came from Bob, that one is an 8" diameter and using the same calculation with the 8" instead of the 4" comes out to 932 sfpm. Does this all sound right? I'll need to order a pulley for the motor regardless so I can do some fine tuning, I really just need to know what sort of sfpm I should be aiming for.

  8. #112
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    Oct 2013
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    Perth, Australia
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    Another option I just considered is sticking with the 4" pulley (it's already painted) and buying a 1-1/4" pulley for the motor to get the sfpm to 1165.

  9. #113
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by bueller View Post
    I need a new pulley for this motor as the shaft is a different size and I realised the ones it came with might not be the right ones for the job. After doing some research it seems like 500-1000 surface feet per minute is what I need for wood and from what I've calculated the original set up was way off that.
    I would be interested to see where you got that from, as generally wood cutting BS need more that 500 - 1000 FPM.
    Efficient cutting of wood with a BS actually takes place at around 5000 FPM.
    This needs a very tight band and as it is a pretty hair raising speed, if things go wrong it can lead to problems which is why most workshop type band saws operate in the 2 - 3000 FPM range.

    Your calculations assume a motor speed of 1440 rpm but the motor used on the Woodiest combo of which that BS was a part is I am pretty certain 2880 RPM
    I can check that for you at the mens shed when I next go in which will be later this weel.

    If it is 2880 rpm then the speed would be around 1800 FPM which sounds more correct.

  10. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I would be interested to see where you got that from, as generally wood cutting BS need more that 500 - 1000 FPM.
    Efficient cutting of wood with a BS actually takes place at around 5000 FPM.
    This needs a very tight band and as it is a pretty hair raising speed, if things go wrong it can lead to problems which is why most workshop type band saws operate in the 2 - 3000 FPM range.

    Your calculations assume a motor speed of 1440 rpm but the motor used on the Woodiest combo of which that BS was a part is I am pretty certain 2880 RPM
    I can check that for you at the mens shed when I next go in which will be later this weel.

    If it is 2880 rpm then the speed would be around 1800 FPM which sounds more correct.
    Cheers for the info Bob, glad I asked! I think I saw the 500-1000 fpm on a chart with tons of different material types but can't really remember where.

    Sounds like the original setup was probably spot on, I worry too much!

  11. #115
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    Oct 2013
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    Finished getting all the old paint and rust off both end bells, turns out this motor had actually been painted twice. Most of the rust actually seemed to be on the outside which was pretty positive, the insides of both only had minor surface rust.

    Arms are tired but glad to be done, I find cleaning things like this oddly therapeutic haha


  12. #116
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    Sep 2006
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    Victor Harbor South Australia
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    Amazing job you have done, most would have have just popped out and bought a new one. Look forward to the progress
    Denial is not a river in Egypt

    www.sentimentalaboutwood.com.au

  13. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by countstefan View Post
    Amazing job you have done, most would have have just popped out and bought a new one. Look forward to the progress
    Should have more pics up today, busy day ahead 😊

  14. #118
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    Oct 2013
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    Didn't get as much done today as I would have hoped but I managed to get primer down on the last piece of the puzzle. Tomorrow will get some paint down and hopefully get to work on the fresh rubber for the wheels. Actually pretty happy with the colour on the wheels, it's almost an exact match for the cream on the badge.

    Included a couple of pics of some finished parts too.








  15. #119
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    Oct 2013
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    Don't laugh, I bought another motor.





    1/2 HP and fully sealed this time, also has thermal overload protection. Got it for $50 which was actually less than new bearings and a drive pulley was going to cost for the Cadet. Good luck is on my side too as the pulley on the new motor is the exact size required.

    So as it stands I have everything I need in the house to put this all back together. Now I just need to find the time.

  16. #120
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    Nov 2011
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    Congratulations on finding something made in Australia!. There aren't too many items made here these days, just have a wander through Bunnings or Masters and you will see what I mean.
    I have been following your progress, the bandsaw is coming along nicely, shouldn't be long before you will be making a bit of sawdust.

    Alan...

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