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20th November 2015, 11:53 PM #31.
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If you currently have 1000 FPM you will need to drop the speed by a factor of 10 with the VFD.
This means instead of running at 50Hz you will need to run at 5Hz.
There are 3 issues to deal with.
1) you will need to replace the single phase motor with a 3phase motor.
2) Unless you get a vector drive VFD at 5Hz you will only have 10% of the motor power. Since it takes a certain amount of power just to overcome friction from blade tension just to turn the wheels the power available at the blade will be less than 10%. This means if you use a 3/4 HP motor then you will have considerably less than 1/10HP at 5Hz.
A vector VFD will roughly double this so you will have 20% power but the cost will be around double for the VFD.
You could of course replace the motor with a greater power - most likely this will have a larger diameter shaft so you will have to modify the drive pulley
If you went for a 1.5HP motor and a Vector drive VFD that would give you 0.3HP which would be enough to cut the steel.
My concern about fitting a bigger motor still would be the added strain on the wheels/bearings etc.
3) At 5Hz the motor turns so slowly that it may not get sufficient cooling from its own fan which will over heat the motor.
The motor on my bandsaw has a fan that runs at double the speed of the motor but even so I am reluctant to
To get around this you will need to fit an independent fan.
I have done this on several motors - fiddly but doable.
You do realise that for the price of a 3P motor and a VFD you can buy a used dedicated metal cutting BS that will cut stock completely unattended and turn itself off when it finishes the cut?
The dedicated BS can be fitted with a coolant lube loop for ultra long blade life and not mess up the saw for WW.
For the price of a 3P motor and a Vector drive VFD you can probably buy a new metal cutting Bandsaw.
Seeing as you have to replace the motor anyway then you might consider using a 6 pole motor (960 rpm)
this will only get you to 7.5Hz for 100 FPM but that is definitely better than 5Hz.
The cost of such a motor may also be more expensive.
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20th November 2015 11:53 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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21st November 2015, 11:27 AM #32
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21st November 2015, 12:59 PM #33.
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We had (still have) one in the workshop where I used to work. In the early 80's I watched a senior technician (distracted by talking to another techo) saw his thumb right off at the second knucklet The guy was also a harp player. In the flurry of getting him attended to the severed thumb was lost. Eventually he was still able to play the harp again and over time developed a thick callus on the stump. He went to be one of the few Harp player-experts=valuers in the state.
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3rd December 2015, 11:06 PM #34Novice
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- Aug 2015
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- Adelaide
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Cutting 1mm Aluminium sheet
I fitted the new 13mm x 8 tpi Starret carbon steel bandsaw blade and ran it at 1000 sfpm to trial cut 1mm Aluminium sheet. I was expecting a lot of noise and vibration as they suggest that material thickness should be at least 3x the blade pitch. It was a bit noisy but quite stable and cut well. I cut out a flat box shape and folded up an enclosure for an electronics project. It was good to work with a flat sheet rather than a sheet buckled with tin snip cuts.
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19th December 2015, 10:10 PM #35Novice
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- Aug 2015
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- Adelaide
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Sorry not woodworking but similar
I needed a piece of Aluminium stock 60x25x160 to machine a small timing pulley cover. 80x25x300 was available on Ebay for $50. I found a piece of 65mm round bar 300mm long in the shed and worked out that I can get my section from it, just. I fitted my new bi-metal 14tpi blade to the Bandsaw and cut the length 160mm easy. Now for the woodworking bit. I've never had to do it but I have seen blokes re-saw round logs to get rectangular boards. Well I needed to take a slice about 18mm thick off each side of my round bar leaving enough in the centre to clean up in the Mill to 25mm. Each cut cross section was 60x160 so not insignificant. A bit of WD40 and a steady feed rate and guide to keep the stock from rotating and job done. Stock got warm but not too hot to touch. Saved myself some money and a wait for Ebay stock.
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21st December 2015, 09:06 PM #36Novice
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- Aug 2015
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- Adelaide
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- 22
My first Bandsaw Box?
I have machined that block of Aluminium into a timing belt cover. Not a Bandsaw box but my Bandsaw can take some of the credit.
https://youtu.be/iMzzjkfDtwc
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10th January 2016, 11:52 AM #37Novice
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- Aug 2015
- Location
- Adelaide
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- 22
Bandsaw gearbox wanted
I have attached a picture of the gearbox that is fitted to the SteelFast version of my bandsaw. I would like to find a similar gearbox that I could modify if necessary to fit my bandsaw. I have also considered making one from scratch, just buying some spur gears. If someone has a complete Steelfast bandsaw for sale, any condition, I am also very interested. I am very happy with my speed modification to the machine for cutting Aluminium but need much slower speeds for steel cutting. Do other bandsaws use a similar gearbox that can be purchased as a spare part?
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10th January 2016, 12:49 PM #38Senior Member
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- Mar 2012
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- sydney
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- 156
Hi
I have got a Hycy band saw with the 10:1 gearbox, but found it is not that suitable for steel as you don't have any clamping facilities on it
I ended up buying a dedicated band saw like this
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B002
I found it lt a lot better as if you can clamp the material, and if you need a vertical just up ended it and put the table on it.
cheers
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10th January 2016, 09:33 PM #39
If you have not used the BS4A in the vertical position there are some issues to be aware of.
With the BS4A and similar be aware that that there is very limited throat and side clearance due to the arm being presented at 45 to the blade.As a dimension it is around 5 x 6".
The supplied table is woeful and hopeless in terms of versatility. If you move back and forward in cutting horizontally and vertically the table needs to be removed each time the saw is used in the horizontal mode.
A small table used for vertical mode and remaining in position for horizontal cuts is good for small items .
Your choice of a style of metal bandsaw will be guided by how much straight cutting of sections which need to be clamped or cutting curved and circular work.
I have a vertical bandsaw which I am gearing to the correct bandsaw blade M/Minute with some 12 " pulleys I salvaged off a ride on mower. You should be looking for around 32 meters /minute for steel.
Grahame
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27th January 2016, 09:44 PM #40Novice
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- Aug 2015
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- Adelaide
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Not a power hacksaw
I would like to be able to rough out a shape in a steel plate 3-13mm thick in preparation for milling. Holding the material on the vertical bandsaw and being able to make cuts, slots and notches in various directions quickly without clamping is the advantage I am looking for. I can do that now with Aluminium and can see the benefit of being able to cut steel as well.
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7th April 2018, 04:18 PM #41Novice
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- Aug 2015
- Location
- Adelaide
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- 22
The Treadmill motor with variable speed control maybe a good option.
Have started a conversion of a pedestal drill press from a 3/4hp induction motor to a 1.2hp DC motor from a discarded treadmill. A treadmill needs high torque at very low speed to get the belt moving and carry the load of the user. The matching speed controller is also salvaged from the treadmill and with minor modification, just a simple potentiometer is used to adjust the speed. No more belt changing for 16 speeds.
I have found 3 unloved treadmills on the curbside in recent times and stripped the motors and electrics to experiment with. One seems to have a faulty controller, 2 controllers and 3 motors are fine. Anyway, I have a DC motor that has a max 4300rpm and can run, I suspect, at 1/10 the speed of the current Induction motor, 1440rpm, on my Bandsaw. 140rpm motor shaft speed will give me approximately 100ft/min band speed. I shall iron out any issues on the drill press before I attack the bandsaw. Lots of youtube videos on this topic. Search "treadmill motor". All good fun.
Cheers,
John
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6th October 2018, 07:17 AM #42
That is not entirely correct. When the original Woodfast company was experiencing financial difficulty the designs etc were snapped up by the Chinese. Machines like the M910 wood lathe are indeed made in China but are virtually the original Australian design. Manufacturing, casting and component quality is certainly different. The machines are "rebranded" as Rikon and Record in other markets.
Nice pickup with the bandsaw. The old original Australian manufactured machines are well worth the restoration effort that you have so capably performed.Mobyturns
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