Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 35
-
14th September 2016, 07:40 PM #1
Wanted - Anyone got any creosote (Sydney and west of Katoomba)?
Anyone got any creosote they want to offload? I'm in Katoomba so Sydney wide or west to around Bathurst is ok. I would have to pick up or have an agent do same as it cannot be posted. Happy to pay a reasonable price for it.
-
14th September 2016 07:40 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
14th September 2016, 08:16 PM #2
Maybe a modern creosote substitute. Creo is a carcinogen and I'm pretty sure you have to be licenced to use it. If you can get it.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
-
14th September 2016, 08:23 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
- Location
- Little River
- Age
- 78
- Posts
- 1,205
You can get modern creosote alternatives from Bunnies.
-
14th September 2016, 08:27 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- gippsland
- Posts
- 815
bugger, I've got near 50lts I can't give away.
-
14th September 2016, 08:28 PM #5
Unfortunately creo substitute is akin to a bull with udders. I've used Diggers erzatz creo (2 coats) and the timber rotted within 5 years. This was hardwood fence palings used as a garden edge.
-
14th September 2016, 08:44 PM #6
-
15th September 2016, 02:45 PM #7
-
17th September 2016, 09:37 PM #8
Unknown Ian, but you'd be more right than wrong - what I mean is that they were fence palings therefore classic "Norfcoast Hardwood" which could be whatever was leftover for paling production on the day - anything from class 1 to 3 or even 4 I suppose. I had a look at the southern facing ones today (so no sun to help things along) and the erzatz has all faded right back (the above ground part) so who knows what happens to it underground, 'cept I know the timber still rots within 4-5 years.
Not so sure about that. The owner (a mechanical engineer and ex maintenance guy at a sandstone Uni) swears by creo as a rot preventer, and he's been using it for more than 60 years.
Also, think about telegraph poles - I wouldn't have thought that creo for 500mm up the base would stop termites going a bit higher past it via a tunnel, and in any case they'd prefer to go up through the middle out of light (and plenty of poles are termite ridden). Pretty sure the creo there is for rot prevention. The owner tells me that his (and others) favourite trick is to drill a ½" hole diagonally down at the base into the centre, fill it with creo and then put in a tapered wooden plug. The creo (perhaps cut with sump oil and other stuff to create his "witch's brew") then disperses slowly into the timber centre. He does this at ground level because that's where the rot occurs down to 200mm (although I've seen plenty go much further than that). Anyway, that's his theory.
However, having said all that, it's hard to imagine termites chomping through creo wood - you'd have to think it would be toxic to them, or at the very least, absolutely lousy tasting . "Would you like some Fossil Fuel Sauce with your woodchips Sir?"
-
18th September 2016, 12:23 AM #9
-
18th September 2016, 01:02 AM #10
Hi FF.
I worked with that Creosote, & it terrible to the skin.
Our Power Poles were covered in it, & on a hotish day, & you were up the Pole, when you came down the poor blokes Faces & Hands were burnt to a cinder, so much so that they refused to climb those Poles ever again.
I did use it on some Tallow Wood Xarms that I used for front fence 1m high. Only took them out 4+ years ago, but lasted some 30+ years. Could never paint them around the bottom as the Creosote wood show itself.
Terrible Stuff.Regards,
issatree.
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.
-
18th September 2016, 08:13 AM #11GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Location
- the sawdust factory, FNQ
- Posts
- 1,051
Use creosote if you can get it. If not, here's some options... Bituminous tar ( road tar) is harder to live with because you need to heat it to apply. But better overall... Creosote was developed to be an easier to use replacement for bituminous tar back in the day.
Ormanoid is brushable at least, but remains somewhat tacky on a hot day. Same basic tar based preservative effect.
Sump oil works, paint it on, then drip a bit around each post every time you change the oil in the car.
All these, as with creosote, will preserve and protect timber from rot and decay.
Copper napthenate concentrate works so long as you don't follow the mixing instructions on the tin. The directions are for remedial homeowner useage, not primary treatment useage.... If you go that way I'll pm you the mix and directions to get a H4 level treatment. You can buy that stuff at green shed.
All carcinogenic of course.... That's what wood preservatives are for... To kill stuff that eats wood. Just don't go eating the timber, or cooking on an open fire of off cuts, and wear gloves when applying and common sense things like that. People seem paranoid about actually being unhealthy when they die nowadays.
-
18th September 2016, 08:31 AM #12
-
18th September 2016, 11:33 AM #13
Brett
The primary issue with creosote is that it removes the skins natural protection to UV light. It does not itself burn, although many people think of it that way. It is the sun that is doing the burning.
Direct contact of the liquid or the fumes (the fumes are extreme) will have this very unfortunate effect. People who worked at Koppers logs were unable to go anywhere in the sun.
Back in the UK it was common for it to be used as a "paint" on fence palings, but there the ravages of the hot sun were not quite so much of an issue. It primary use was as a preservation treatment, although it may well put off white ants here in Australia too.
For power pole treatment it was used on timber with a thick sapwood (spotted gum for example) and was applied by heating which allowed the creosote to be drawn into the sapwood under vacuum as it cooled. It was termed a "something" replacement technique, which escapes me at the moment. Most power poles using this did have a hole drilled diagonally at the base of the pole where subsequent top ups were applied. A plug was inserted similar to the "owners" technique although it was more like an inch hole from memory.
The creosote continues to fume for some days after application. Like Issatree, I can testify from personal experience that it is an awful product with which to come into contact. The pain of no natural skin protection is excruciating.
If you can find an alternative product, I would recommend you do.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
-
19th September 2016, 01:59 AM #14GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,696
When I was young we had a neighbour who religiously used sump oil on his fences and they lasted a damned long.
CHRIS
-
19th September 2016, 07:53 AM #15GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Melb
- Posts
- 1,545
Similar Threads
-
wood worker in Inner West Sydney
By scarlett in forum G'day mate - THE WELCOME WAGON -Introduce yourselfReplies: 2Last Post: 28th March 2011, 08:05 PM -
Portable miller required, inner west Sydney
By DrJenCat in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLINGReplies: 1Last Post: 15th March 2009, 09:33 AM -
south west Sydney mill?
By fletty in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 3Last Post: 13th July 2007, 10:46 PM -
Source of veneers? - Sydney Inner West
By terrygoss in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 6Last Post: 11th July 2006, 08:52 PM