Blade slot for backsaw handle.

**planemaker** · 9th November 2013, 11:06 PM

Hi all I just completed a trial using the slitting blade mounted to a router table to cut the blade slot in the backsaw handle. The end results were extremely good. The critical thing I found with the trial is getting the operating speed of the router correct. The router I have mounted in the table is a Makita 1/2" 22,000 rpm single speed unit. With the slitting blade mounted there was a slight vibration within the blade at full operating speed. Using the Jaycar motor speed controller I adjusted the rpm dial down to eliminate any of this vibration and at a speed I felt was adequate to complete the slot within the handle.

The slitting blade I was using was hss 75mm o.d. x 0.05mm thickness. The o.d. gave me an effective cut of 45mm outside the top flange of the slitting blade holder. The 0.05mm was slightly under gauge to the 0.020 thou saw plate I normally use for my backsaws. As it ended up this was ideal as I was able to slide the saw plate within the kerfed cut without having to open it up any further. I chose to use an old discarded backsaw handle for the trial and cut 2 slots well away from the original slot that was cut in the handle, flipping the handle over as I went. Here's the end results.

On each side of the handle I completed 3 passes to achieve an optimum outside penetration of the area I wanted slotted. It felt quite safe to run the handle through the slitting blade while guided the handle by hand. But I would not recommend likewise to others unless you have a high quality mounting for the router, a failsafe depth adjustment lock, and a means of slowing down the operating speed of the router. Continuing on:

The 1st pass in the correct feed direction.

The 2nd pass in the correct feed direction.

The 3rd and final pass in an opposing feed direction. I could not feel any obvious signs of heat build up on the slitting blade after completing all 3 passes.

The final step was to insure the slot was cut to the full and proper depth to allow the saw plate correct seating within the handle. This was done by hand using a dedicated high tpi backsaw that's had the set removed. As mentioned the results were excellent with the handle slots spot on to the horizontal plane of each of the handle faces.

I think I have covered most the important aspects of the trial. I hope you enjoyed the information. I should include that importance of wearing eye and ear protection and keep those fingers well away from the cutting blade.

regards Stewie.

**DSEL74** · 10th November 2013, 11:15 AM

It might be good to show how you fitted the saw to the arbour, and into the router. It looks like the Mcings arbour etc to me.

I wonder if you could set up a fence and guides so you can also slit brass spines in a similar fashion??

**RayG** · 10th November 2013, 12:27 PM

Hi Stewie,

We could have used that set up yesterday!.. You might be interested to know that set up is pretty much the same as Disston used to cut their handle slots, but larger diameter blade and a jig to plunge the handle, the resulting cut was rounded on the back.

I don't know how brass would go, worth a try, just be careful to set up fences and keep fingers out of the way.

I slit brass on the mill, and cut 10mm deep in one pass, climb cutting tracks best, and feed slow enough to not generate heat, probably around 60 mm/min feed.

Regards
Ray

PS You would have enjoyed the class yesterday.

**planemaker** · 10th November 2013, 12:51 PM

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi Stewie,

We could have used that set up yesterday!.. You might be interested to know that set up is pretty much the same as Disston used to cut their handle slots, but larger diameter blade and a jig to plunge the handle, the resulting cut was rounded on the back.

I don't know how brass would go, worth a try, just be careful to set up fences and keep fingers out of the way.

I slit brass on the mill, and cut 10mm deep in one pass, climb cutting tracks best, and feed slow enough to not generate heat, probably around 60 mm/min feed.

Regards
Ray

PS You would have enjoyed the class yesterday.

Thanks for the info Ray. I always wondered how Disston did their handles. Slitting the brass is an option that I could consider. The router table fence I have installed has a split fence design designed for jointing timber straight. It also has a fine adjustment mechanism that allows you to move the fence forward or back at increments as low as 0.5mm. The only real concern I have would be stopping the brass dust from entering the router motor and causing issues. I would have loved to have attended the saw making workshop yesterday but with my bad neck and lower back the trip up and back from Portland, Vic. would have been a bit too much to handle. I was more than happy to provide what I could to assist.

Stewie.

**planemaker** · 10th November 2013, 12:55 PM

Originally Posted by DSEL74

It might be good to show how you fitted the saw to the arbour, and into the router. It looks like the Mcings arbour etc to me.

I wonder if you could set up a fence and guides so you can also slit brass spines in a similar fashion??

Hi Dale. Heres a link for the saw arbour. Slitting Saw & Slotting Saw Holder With 1/2" Shank

**DSEL74** · 10th November 2013, 06:00 PM

Originally Posted by planemaker

Hi Dale. Heres a link for the saw arbour. Slitting Saw & Slotting Saw Holder With 1/2" Shank

Thanks Stewie, That is what I thought it was but never realised they were stepped inside for different cutters. I thought that all the cutters of that size range were of a standard bore.

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