Thread: First saw build

Off to a solid start. I'm excited to see more.

Cheers,
Luke

Just if you learned it already the hard way: The hardest part in making a saw is to cut the slots for the blade and the spine parallel. Carving the handle ist only fun, after these tasks have been forfilled. So train that tasks before you touch your best wood.

Cheers
Pedder

Thanks for the warning pedder. I have been shaping and sanding, and yesterday cut the slots. I used the blade from the saw - a quick file gave it enough edge to cut the handles, however, with no set to the teeth, it was difficult to use. I spaced the blade off the bench and clamped it down, and used that to get the line around the blade, cut to about 5-10mm deep. From there I put it into the vice. However, the poorly toothed saw did not track well, and ended up skewing the cut quite badly. I ended up using my other saws to cut the slot straight again. Fortunately the other saws have a pretty small kerf, even with the tooth set, so the end result was quite good. To use the actual saw blade is not a bad idea, but it should be sharpened property before doing this. Anyway, next up is the slot for the brass backs, although I might end up doing a bit of milling of the brass backs before that. The brass back I have is quite big and heavy, and it might be a bit much for the dovetail saw.
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Hi, welcome to the sawsmithing club! Looks like you're making good progress. I cut all of my blade slots by hand with an appropriately set saw, usually one I made specifically for the purpose. It helps a lot if you use a marking gauge with a circular cutter to inscribe the first line of your blade slot. I use a Bridge City Toolworks MG-4.

Cheers,
Rob

OK, here's my first questions...

1) When I've finished the brass back, should I treat it with something to prevent it from tarnishing. I love the look of new brass. I have used waxed before, but it doesn't last so well. I think I've used nitro and poly, but they can chip off. I'll probably go for a sanded look on the brass back, and a mirror polish on the saw bolts, but I'm curious as to whether people coat the brass with anything, or just a wax?

2) My saw blade has bluing on it. I would much rather a silver steel finish, and I'll wax it. I'm not keen on resanding the entire blade, particularly around the teeth, I don't want to muck them up. What's the best way to get the bluing off without harming the steel?

For the brass I use lacquer in an aerosol can - not a perfect solution but it works and lasts well if you're careful with it. If you put a relatively high polish on the brass it tends to stay bright longer. Check with jewelry tool suppliers, they may have a solution.

The bluing can be removed chemically using dilute acetic or phosphoric acid. A commercial product exists for removing bluing for guns 16125 Birchwood Casey Blue Rust Remover Gun Finishing Cleaner 3 Oz | eBay or you could use something like this Loctite 16 fl.-oz. Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver Bottle-553472 - The Home Depot

Don't let any of these products sit on the steel unattended, you'll get pitting. Make sure you clean the steel very well after using them and apply some rust preventive. Double check in a few hours to make sure that the blade isn't rusting.

Originally Posted by surfdabbler

2) My saw blade has bluing on it. I would much rather a silver steel finish, and I'll wax it. I'm not keen on resanding the entire blade, particularly around the teeth, I don't want to muck them up. What's the best way to get the bluing off without harming the steel?

Any mild acid will do. E. g. Vinegar or Citron acid

My experience with rust removers is that they blacken the steel and require a lot of sanding to get the black off again. Will the acid do this to my saw blade?

Another question I thought of...when I put the blade into the back, do I glue it in or just hammer the back onto the blade? It is a pretty tight fit, but can be put on and off without the aid of tools.

Slit backs are usually fitted up using CA of one sort or another. Bearing mount compound will work. Be careful with hammering.

Originally Posted by surfdabbler

My experience with rust removers is that they blacken the steel and require a lot of sanding to get the black off again. Will the acid do this to my saw blade?

Another question I thought of...when I put the blade into the back, do I glue it in or just hammer the back onto the blade? It is a pretty tight fit, but can be put on and off without the aid of tools.

I've used vinegar to remove the blue. The result is a shade of grey. 600 or 800 grit W&D paper will remove the blue and give you a satin finish. If you want a bright finish use a buffer and the red-brown or grey compound, it will remove the blue and give you the mirror finish that some think is important in a saw.

If the slot in the saw back is tight, a mild squeeze in a vice will hold the blade tight.
Also, don't push the blade to the full depth of the slot, leave a small gap.

Originally Posted by surfdabbler

My experience with rust removers is that they blacken the steel and require a lot of sanding to get the black off again. Will the acid do this to my saw blade?

I don't lay the blade in an acid bath. Just wipe down.

I tested some white vinegar last night on an offcut of blade - just dribbled a pool of vinegar onto the surface and let it sit. It seemed to come up pretty shiny in about 5-10 minutes of treatment. I'll see how it comes up with just the vinegar, and if I want it shinier, I'll give it a buff. Working on chiselling out the back of the blade slot and shaping/shining the brass backs at the moment.

I understand your situation with the component parts sitting in a drawer. I have the same thing as a result of a group buy.

Following with interest.

Regards
Paul