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  1. #1
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    Default Copy of an 18th century Kenyon

    On the sawblog from Matt Ciance (Plimoth saws – The Saw Blog) I saw a very nice old saw and decided to make a copy. Mine is a tad shorter at 18" and I used two split nuts instead of the original three woodscrews. The back is made from 2mm steel plate. The sawplate is 0.6 mm thick. Ripteeth, 10 ppi, 2 degree rake angle. Beech handle. I allready posted the pictures on woodnet, but maybe downunder you like to see them too.

    IMG_0309.jpgIMG_0318.jpgIMG_0320.jpg

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  3. #2
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    Thank you for posting photo's of your recent backsaw build Kees. Its a great looking saw.

    Stewie;

  4. #3
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    What was the reason for deviating from the original three bolts for the two? Was it a stylisation point or a technical reason?
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  5. #4
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    Hi Corneel,

    Interesting saw, well worth copying!

    I saw that saw on Matt's blog and was thinking it would be a nice one to replicate... you beat me to it!.. I'd think it is one of the earliest Kenyon's I've seen.

    Rivetted handles generally were replaced with split nuts by 1780 or thereabouts, which make me think that it's probably earlier than 1780.

    The severe canting of the blade is interesting and almost looks like a handsaw with a folded back added. The spine was also tapered as well as the blade.

    An early panel saw with a removable back was posted recently here Saw Discussion Forums - View Single Post - Kenyon-Green Saw? Note the taper on the Kenyon back.

    Regards
    Ray

  6. #5
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    The other side of the saw was on Peter Follansbee blog. Surprising are the three woodscrews used. I don't know if that was original or a later repair.

    18th-c-handle.jpg

    I used two screws because I have seen quite a few of these types of saws with just two and I think that looks great. I made them a bit larger then on my dovetail saws. They are now 14 mm instead of 11.

    Ray, it was quite a rush in order to beat you! It took about half a month of sparetime to finish the saw. The steel spine was quite an adventure. The hammering gave a lot of dents, and it was very hard to sand them out while trying to avoid an undulating surface. At one point I litterally threw the spine through the shop in frustration. Next morning I picked it up again and with carefull attention I managed to complete it. The spine in Matt Cianti's blog is indeed tapered. About 3/4" near the handle and 1/2" at the other end. It is also very thin, he told me. 2mm steel plate might still be a little bit oversized.

    The saw is a delight to use. it isn't so toe heavy as my 16" saw with full 1", 6 mm brass spine. The agressive teeth are surprisingly mellow in use, but I do want to reduce the rake in the first couple of centimeter. When I accidentally pull the saw too far back, the point catches in the wood.

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