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Thread: Crown moulding miter box saw
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14th February 2014, 12:27 PM #1
Crown moulding miter box saw
Made this to order for a local contractor. It is 13 t.p.i. reverse toothed, cuts on the pull stroke. It is 24.5" long with a 19.5" tooth line. Mass is 901.5 gm. I made this using the taper ground 0.025" plate with 304 stainless back I discussed in another post here. The handle is Argentine lignum vitae. It is in the rough state now I just finished fitting the handle to the plate, I will clean up the profile lines, finish and deliver it tomorrow.
Crown moulding saw 1.jpg
Crown moulding saw 2.jpg
Crown moulding saw 3.jpg
Cheers,
Rob
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15th February 2014, 06:39 AM #2
And here it is ready for delivery.
19.5 inch pull cut miter box saw RHS handle detail.jpg19.5 inch pull cut miter box saw LHS handle detail.jpg19.5 inch pull cut miter box saw LHS oblique.jpg19.5 inch pull cut miter box saw LHS oblique 2.jpg19.5 inch pull cut miter box saw RHS handle detail 2.jpg19.5 inch pull cut miter box saw RHS 4.jpg
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15th February 2014, 12:38 PM #3Deceased
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Rob. I think you have done an outstanding job on this saw build. You should be very proud of what you have been able to achieve so far. The challenge is then set yourself the target of learning something new from each of your saw builds and utilize this increased knowledge base to further improve your next work. I see the improvement already in this saw as compared to the 2 previous. You are definitely on the right track.
Stewie.
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15th February 2014, 01:34 PM #4
Thanks Stewie, I am trying to stick with very traditional design elements, consistent with the folded back vibe.
One thing that made this handle a lot easier and in my opinion significantly improved the finish of the product was the use of a new set of Liogier rasps I just received. The are the best rasps I have ever used. I purchased the sapphire coated cabinet makers set plus the three handle makers rasps. This handle was completed in 1/6th the time as the previous two handles.
The only things I feel I need now are a few round floats for the tight inner curves. I have some O-1 drill rod that I will make into a set of tapered and straight 10 t.p.i floats this weekend. I'll post a description of the build.
Cheers,
Rob
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15th February 2014, 03:51 PM #5Deceased
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I agree Rob. Logier are excellent rasps to use. I have a number of but the type I use the most for my saw handles is the 150mm Modellers Rasps in 14 & 15 cut. http://www.hand-stitched-rasp-riffle...s/effilee.html At 150mm length the standard width of the rasp is 11mm. This negates the need to use an alternate round float or file to cope with those tight inner and outer curves you encounter such as the birds mouth and bottom rail to lambs tongue. They also great for fine tuning the flat shaping of the handle before rasping the rounded edge such as seen on the grip.
Another handy item to have available is a japanese feather file. These are great for getting into those very tight internal corners such as each side of the hounds tooth. They also very good for those 90 degree profiled areas of the handle where a flat smooth surface prior to sanding is desired.
Stewie;
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