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  1. #16
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    Rob,

    You cite your previous rasp making post.

    Could you post a link?

    Cheers,
    Luke

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke Maddux View Post
    Rob,

    You cite your previous rasp making post.

    Could you post a link?

    Cheers,
    Luke
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f278/rasp-handle-shaping-189731
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heavansabove View Post
    I need to take some photos, working today unfortunately. There have been posts with tools in the past, and I mean to consolidate them... one day. Stewie posted his tools in this thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...highlight=rasp, others have too, from memory. Here is one former maker's toolkit (part I suspect) http://eccentrictoolworks.com/2010/0...ld-school-cnc/

    As a beginner, I am focusing on using as few tools as possible - so I can build some skills before moving onto others. This means a scroll saw for cutting to template; an Angle Mag for cutting the blade slot (using Japanese saws mainly, how's that for loyalty); Chisels for the back slot; Rasps for shaping - Liogier (5), Nicholson #50, Gramercy (1); Files for smoothing - various mainly NOS Wiltshire and Swiss, for maintaining crisp transitions (I don't go for the fully rounded look); cloth backed paper (or paper backed with tape) for finishing.

    What I plan to do soon is start with chisels, gouges, and wooden spokeshaves for facets (rather than a # 9 Liogier Cabinet Rasp), and to use rifflers for hard to get to spots. I also have some old handcut English rasps that I have sharpened in citric acid that I will try, they are mostly fairly fine, and with the rounding of the tips of the teeth, cut like a fine French rasp. I will also give the milled teeth files a go.

    I am undecided whether using Forstner bits to cut the handle curves before using the scroll saw is worth the trouble - or not. What is your practice?

    Cheers
    Peter
    I rough the outer profile of my handles using my bandsaw and for the inner I use my scrollsaw. I do the rest of the shaping with rasps or files. I use templates for laying out the handles and find that they really help a lot. The last time I made up blanks I did nearly sixty in a day.

    Cheers,
    Rob
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  5. #19
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    Dec 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    Hi Peter. I can highly recommend you get yourself a couple of Japanese Feather Files. They leave a very fine surface, and are excellent for accessing those tight areas around the handle, such as the cheek to lambs tongue union. I also use mine to shape the edge profiles on my brass backs. The are come in different lengths, but I have personally found 100mm to 120mm are ideal. Shop around on the internet, as they are generally only available from overseas suppliers.Stewie;
    Thanks Stewie, I do have a 6" Swiss knife file No 2 which is useful - and the feather files look useful, a tad more aggressive I guess. I see Stu at ToolsfromJapan has them for around A$15 + postage

  6. #20
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    Hi Peter. I just ordered 2x 100mm japanese feather files from ebay seller(japarts-kg) in Canada. Total cost au$54.80

  7. #21
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    I'd been waiting to get one of these on a deal and I recently picked this one up on eBay. Truly marvelous tool, excellent in both finish and function.

    HNT gordon spokeshave.jpg

    I snapped this just before another torrential rain caused me to cease work on the fourth D-8. I'm sure that the coming drought will be just as extreme as the current deluge.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  8. #22
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    Happy new (lil) spoke shave

    would the little veritas spoke shave work as well or is it a tad small? this one
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    Happy new (lil) spoke shave

    would the little veritas spoke shave work as well or is it a tad small? this one

    I bought this because of it's 3/8" radius sole - better to get into the tighter inner curves of the saw handles. Looks like the Veritas has a flat sole or am I missing something? For $36 you could afford to buy two and re-grind one to have a curved sole.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  10. #24
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    What seems to be missing when I compare my own list of tools I use for making back saw handles is good assortment of woodwork carving knives.

  11. #25
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    I was going to boast that I use way fewer tools for handle making, Rob, but thinking it through, I still use a lot when you consider the entire process. You haven't shown any saws for cutting the slots, just the 'cat's paw' for deepening?

    I'm in the middle of finishing a couple of saws right now, so I'll lay out my handle-making tools in the morning & get some pics to add to the display...

    Cheers,
    IW

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob streeper View Post
    I bought this because of it's 3/8" radius sole - better to get into the tighter inner curves of the saw handles. Looks like the Veritas has a flat sole or am I missing something? For $36 you could afford to buy two and re-grind one to have a curved sole.
    And there I was thinking that you got it because it was Aussie Made!

    Actually I worked it out after looking at his site (I hadn't seen these spoke shaves before)

    The veritas is flat soled
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  13. #27
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    The handles on the Veritas are very small, and the hex (and longer) handles look to be much more useful than those on the Veritas (which look to be sized for asthetics and not ergonomics).

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    I was going to boast that I use way fewer tools for handle making, Rob, but thinking it through, I still use a lot when you consider the entire process. You haven't shown any saws for cutting the slots, just the 'cat's paw' for deepening?

    I'm in the middle of finishing a couple of saws right now, so I'll lay out my handle-making tools in the morning & get some pics to add to the display...

    Cheers,
    Sorry, thought I had posted the saw making saws. Here they are. Top to bottom are the 0.015", 0.025" and 0.035" blade slot cutting saws.

    SN 8 LHS full view 1.jpgIMG_0796.jpg0.035 saw making saw.jpg
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    What seems to be missing when I compare my own list of tools I use for making back saw handles is good assortment of woodwork carving knives.
    I've got a few Flexcut and Pfiel knives but haven't moved to carving yet. Part of the D-8 project is to learn how to make a passable wheat pattern. I was thinking of starting with block cutting chisels.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    And there I was thinking that you got it because it was Aussie Made!
    That too. The quality of the HNT Gordon planes convinced me that the spokeshave would be a good move. I'd been on the prowl for one for over a year and when the $AUS took its' most recent nose-dive relative to $US they became about 25% less expensive.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

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