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  1. #16
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    Looking at the teeth of the 9PPI hammer set saw through my optical comparator (10X magnification, scale increment = 0.1 mm) you can see the variation in the teeth and the distortion due to hammering.

    9 point saw tooth picture through optical comparator 081816.jpg

    The two teeth marked with green lines are set away from the camera and have been struck on the photographed faces by the punch of the setting tool. I compared the length of the two marked teeth on their cutting face sides on my computer screen using a ruler and found that the left tooth set impression is about 34 mm long and the right tooth set impression is about 31 mm long. The 10% difference in the lengths of the facets swaged on these two teeth could easily account for the variability observed in my reflectograms presented above. The ridges swaged on the teeth by the tool are also of different depth. Just visible on the tooth between those marked is the heavy stoning I mentioned in my post above.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

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  3. #17
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    Perhaps I missed it in my quick browse of this thread, But an issue no one seem to mention about hammer setting is the effect it has on the steel. I am sure I have forgotten much over the years, but I believe bending steel in a rapid fashion to achieve a sharper bend, generates heat and makes the tooth/steel more likely to break if bent the opposite direction in particular. Some what of a work hardening effect. I find this interesting since I had been considering, over a year now, making or having made a hammer setting jig I could use to speed up the process of sharpening as well as giving my hands a bit of a break. I am simply not convinced hammer setting is better in any way, despite the marketing hype touting the superiority of hammer setting being used to, no doubt, speed up a production saw line. I am certainly open to some one showing me the physics they use to come to their conclusion. Thanks for posting these observations.

  4. #18
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    Hi Ron,

    The single hammer set saw I have is a disappointment. The data above for this saw shows that it is inconsistently set and looking closely with the unaided eye I can see variability.
    The hammer setting will work harden the teeth as does pliers setting, but if done in a heavy handed way it also literally smashes the steel distorting the teeth. 1095 steel also doesn't like being bent across an abrupt corner. I omitted that part of my thinking because I thought it would be seen as belaboring the point.
    I've seen one set of setting hammers sold on eBay, a set of 9. The multiplicity of hammers suggests that, as I've observed in tensioning, the hammer setting process depends on the mass of the hammer not the force applied by swinging it with a vengeance. Why else would a sawsmith need nine setting hammers? I have a smaller set of setting hammers and intend to give them a try in the indeterminate future.

    Cheers,
    Rob
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  5. #19
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    I would guess the size/ weight of the hammer is dependent on the thickness of the steel and size of teeth. Hence multiple hammers.

  6. #20
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    Precisely my point. Tapping not whacking.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob streeper View Post
    This saw is interesting in that the uppermost screw has a smaller head diameter than the other screws. I have another saw with this type of medallion and all three of the screws are of the same size. Has this been seen before?
    Rob

    I have heard this mentioned before and on occasions I have seen it myself, although I have not paid undue attention to it. I believe it may have been common in either No.8s or D8s or indeed both. Sometimes it may have been a replacement screw, but my impression is that it is always the uppermost position where this occurs.

    If this occurs in any other position it is definitely a screw up!

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Rob

    I have heard this mentioned before and on occasions I have seen it myself, although I have not paid undue attention to it. I believe it may have been common in either No.8s or D8s or indeed both. Sometimes it may have been a replacement screw, but my impression is that it is always the uppermost position where this occurs.

    If this occurs in any other position it is definitely a screw up!

    Regards
    Paul
    Don't want to hi jack this thread
    I've just cleaned up what I think is D8
    With the upmost nut noticeably smaller
    I post it later with more pics

  9. #23
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    Matt,

    Thanks for the picture. Surprising that non-uniform screw head sizes haven't been commented on much before. I have only one saw with this feature. No idea what model number it is but it's not a D8 as the handle is not closed-top

    Cheers,
    Rob
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  10. #24
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    Rob

    I have a "couple" of saws in the target area. When I get a moment I will check them for this anomaly.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #25
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    Rob

    Out of about a dozen Disston D-8 saws two had the small size saw nut in the top position. These were from before the revamp that occurred in 1928 so the "8" features inside the "D." It seems likely that this style is only seen in the earlier saws and I also don't think it applies to the rip models (certainly not the thumbhole styles).

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  12. #26
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    Default Handsaw setting methods: Hammer vs. Pliers

    Just measure the bolts early



    Top bolt about 12 mm
    Bottom about 14.5 mm

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Rob

    Out of about a dozen Disston D-8 saws
    A DOZEN D-8's? I thought you were a Simmonds fan?

    I really like the D-8's. In particular I have a 12 point 22" saw that I use very frequently for utility jobs. Their general usefulness is one of the reasons that I make them, something I need to get back to.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  14. #28
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    Ahem! Rob you are correct, but I try not to let my prejudice override all else .

    I do collect other brands too, although not the D8s. They are for restoration and re-sale. I recognise that there are many really good saws out there if the truth is known and my mission is to make those available again for serious use (or collection). These other saws may one day pay for my addiction .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  15. #29
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    Another hammer set type: 15 7/8 x 3 3/8 inch Hammer Type Saw Set

    About as consistent as whacking a piñata and only $69.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  16. #30
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    That was a saw hammer setting tool. ?????
    Are we sure[emoji45]

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