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Thread: Home Made Coping Saw
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11th January 2017, 03:53 PM #16
Brass is so much nicer to look at than aluminium, but weighs so much more. If you want to use it in place of aluminium, then you to reduce the amount of metal in the saw.
Bear in mind that low weight is really important for woodworkers using a fret- or coping saw for removing the waste on dovetails or double tenons. Here a saw is generally held horizontally. The saw is used differently than when piercing, where the frame is more likely to be vertical. This would change the way mass is experienced.
The way to do this is to make the saw shallow, that is, a 3" depth is all that is needed as long as the blade can twist 45 degrees. This should enable the saw to cut along the longest boards to a reasonable depth. Not only will this reduce weight, but it will increase stiffness, another important feature.
Below is a fretsaw with a 5" depth of cut. With a 45 degree angle, the depth could happily be 3" ...
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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31st January 2017, 08:56 AM #17
Been busy elsewhere & not following this section so apologies for the late arrival...
I have a quite solid and very utilitarian jewellers' saw, which gets a fair amount of use, but only occasionally, so its ugliness doesn't bother me too much. If you want the saw for cutting metal, then you do need something that will take the (un-pinned) metal-cutting blades. As someone else has already said, Allen screws aren't the most practical clamping method - you do go through a few blades when doing serious work, so thumbscrews make more sense. Searching for an Allen key every 10 minutes or so would drive me nuts.
However, if you want your saw for cutting wood, coping-saw blades might be more useful. I got fed-up with poorly-made coping-saw frames breaking on me a very long time ago, and my solution was to make a small bowsaw for coping-saw blades. A few years ago, I bought myself a small metal lathe & that allowed me to make some slightly more elegant brass parts. I described it here . Unfortunately, the pics have disappeared, so here are a couple, one of the relevant parts: Handle fitted.jpg and one of the completed saw: Bowsaw completed.jpg
You could easily enough make a similar saw to accept un-pinned blades, but I'm not sure a string tensioner would apply enough tension. It's fine for wood-cutting blades but when cutting metal the blades get hotter and stretch a bit more, so a tensioner made from thin threaded rod might be better.
Hmmm, the more I think about the practicalities, the more I think a metal-frame is probably the better way to go for a metal-cutting saw......
Cheers,IW
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