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Thread: A new Vege Garden being built
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11th December 2016, 07:23 PM #61Member
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Brett,
Looking good, but there's one problem. Using copper wire to tie the gal mesh together is going to cause corrosion between the dissimilar metal.
Copper and Brass If an installation requires contact between galvanized materials and copper or brass in a moist or humid environment, rapid corrosion of the zinc may occur. Even runoff water from copper or brass surfaces can contain enough dissolved copper to cause rapid corrosion. If the use of copper or brass in contact with galvanized items is unavoidable, precautions should be taken to prevent electrical contact between the two metals. Joint faces should be insulated with non-conducting gaskets; connections should be made with insulating, grommet-type fasteners. The design should ensure water is not recirculated and water flows from the galvanized surface towards the copper or brass surface and not the reverse.
Source, https://www.galvanizeit.org/hot-dip-...h-other-metals
JohnQ
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11th December 2016 07:23 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th December 2016, 08:06 PM #62
I had a nagging doubt about that the other day John, and was wondering what the situation might be. I think I saw a pliers-like gizmo in the hardware that looks like it seals a gal loop around wire. Better check it out.....
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11th December 2016, 08:45 PM #63Member
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Just had look at the big green shed, 1000 Jambro rings $25, ring gun $80. Also known as Hog Rings.
Good luck with the rings if you use them. Hopefully no more sore fingers.
JohnQLast edited by JohnQ; 11th December 2016 at 08:57 PM. Reason: Added more
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11th December 2016, 10:59 PM #64GOLD MEMBER
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Brett, I have tie wire pliers and heaps of gal tie wire if you want and it is a pretty quick process after you get the hang of it.
CHRIS
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12th December 2016, 12:08 AM #65
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12th December 2016, 09:50 AM #66
Looks like these are what you mean Pete:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-w...clips_p3040886
and this shows the clips a little better:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-w...-pack_p3040887
I can't be certain, but there seems to be some concern about Stainless Steel in contact with gal, but it seems to depend on the surface area. None of what I read gives a definite conclusion.
However, those Whites SS clips are designed for their own Bird Wire, so one can hopefully presume that they are ok.
It certainly looks like a fairly quick process.
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12th December 2016, 08:41 PM #67
I have a pair like this Brett...
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-w...plier_p3063423
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12th December 2016, 08:54 PM #68
Thanks crowie, but I think I'll invest in the flat type - sadly this won't be the last bird wiring that I'll do (chookies). What's the bet that Bunnings Valley Heights don't stock them and I have to go to Penrith....
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13th December 2016, 12:52 PM #69
Ah yup, they don't stock them at Valley Heights. Although they did actually have one - sans bonus clips - and they didn't have any extra packs of clips. Apparently this one must have been a return from another store.
So, to Penrith and back, and they work really well - in the order of 15-20 times quicker than pushing copper wire through holes too small for fingers......wish I'd done some research.....
I got the bird wire at Masters 3 months ago (the day after they went on sale) and the copper wire was right next to it so I assumed that was the stuff to use.
Big thanks to JohnQ for spotting the problem.
I have replaced one wall, and removed the copper wire. There was indeed evidence of corrosion already, and that wall has only been done for 10 days.
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13th December 2016, 12:58 PM #70
Funnily enough I discovered a roll of gal tie wire in the garden shed yesterday, during a routine tidy up. It would have been left by a previous occupant (I'd have remembered it if it was something I put in there). I will have to use some of this to attach the birdwire to the weldmesh, as the J clips aren't quite big enough. I don't have proper pliers, but a normal pair will do for the small number of these ties, or maybe a careful grab with the end-cutters.
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13th December 2016, 02:14 PM #71
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13th December 2016, 02:25 PM #72
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13th December 2016, 10:19 PM #73
hmm, I probably should have given you some pointers on the fine art of affixing this sort of stuff. I was a fencer in a former life
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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21st December 2016, 09:19 PM #74
On Saturday I did the plumbing inside the garden, using Pex Pipe and Sharkbite fittings. It's a really easy (but not cheap) system to use. Just push the fitting on (about 25mm) and it's done. DaveTTC put me onto it.
You can see the pipe which has to be to be joined onto more pipe which is currently only to the back of the shed. Waiting on a retaining wall to be built so I can do that, but I may have to do a temporary job so I can use the water (very keen to sow some seed for what is left of the season).
That was the penultimate task. The very last is to make the rolling gates. Here it is during a test fitting yesterday (sorry 'bout the sideways - I tried):
I'm using Unistrut channels and wheels for this. Very good quality but REALLY expensive. $120 for 6m of channel, and $200 all up for the two gates.....which makes them about $175 for each gate with timber, birdwire, paint etc.
Big shout of thanks to fletty for picking up the Unistrut from near his home and delivering it last week.
So of course, at that sort of money I wanted to absolutely minimise the amount of channel required. This involved more thinking than I had reckoned on
The position of the wheels (distance from the gate edge) is quite critical, as is the positioning of the lower channel, as are the lengths of the pieces etc. An Excel doagram provided the answers (and I had to give fletty the cutting lengths before he could pu - 6m of channel on the roof is a bad idea).
The top channel is almost twice the length of the gate
A Channel Nut on each end stops the gate from rolling off. Much planning went into calculating the exact positioning of the wheels and the channel length, but as it turns out, the big square washer is what the wheel housing hits up against
I didn't use the roller wheels for the bottom because that would have meant another lenght of channel. Instead, I've been able to get away with a very short piece and a guide board attached to the bottom of the gate. Those pieces of H4 pine have had a couple of licks of creosote, as they are now buried in soil.
The guide board on the bottom is Merbau (nice and easy to find and retrieve from the new woodstore shed ) which has very good life outdoors in my experience, but again it got a couple of licks of creo.
The pale grey that you can see is Sikaflex which I used liberally in the half-lap joints of the gate (8 of them). It is particularly good at sealing end grain from the elements, and it readily accepts a paint finish.
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21st December 2016, 09:29 PM #75
And the final result.
Had a few brass handles hanging around.
The handle for the inside has to slide past the post, so needs a concealed position.
So, one more gate to make, connect the middle bit of the plumbing, and it's complete!
Just talking to DaveTTC a few minutes ago and he asked me how I made the joints ("half-lap"). He was curious as to how a floating tenon would compare for strength and durability. I may just make the second gate with floating tenons for a giggle, and a vast time saving, so Dave, I'll get back to you in about 10 years on the answer to that
I don't actually have any "outdoor" dominoes but if I use Sika instead of glue they should be fine - if water can't get in there should be no problem with durability/rot - let's see.
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