Thread: Dyco Superfine 12" Table Saw

Some things that I need to figure out:

• I am going to use a VFD for it, I created another thread for that in the ELECTRONICS section.

• I need to remove the arbour shaft to replace the bearings, but it doesn't move. I have removed all the the pins and bolts from the pulley, but it simply don't move... Any tips? Here are some pictures:

b80cb9eb7.jpeg100b9c8ad7eb.jpeg88f01c98ee6f.jpeg3fdc5be5ab27.jpeg

Judging by the broken casting looks like someone has tried to remove it previously with a rather large hammer ��

Good project! Mine was a fun - Dyco 12" Table Saw. I did replace the 3-phase motor with a single phase 240v motor. This worked well but from memory required a basic mounting plate made up to interface with the original bracket from the saw.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

Good project! Mine was a fun - Dyco 12" Table Saw. I did replace the 3-phase motor with a single phase 240v motor. This worked well but from memory required a basic mounting plate made up to interface with the original bracket from the saw.

Hey Charlie! I know it! Hahaha, I even added you on LinkedIn to talk about this (sorry BTW).

To keep it cost effective I am going to use a VFD since it is hard to find a B5 flange single phase motor here in NZ for less than 300 dollars (I am going to pay 79 on the VFD at AliExpress).

It is an amazing project though, I am really enjoying the process

Cheers!

Update about the arbor: I did it! 😅
I bought this bearing puller and it is amazing! Really well made and relatively cheap: NZD 50.00, very heavy-duty.

bearing-puller.jpg


After I removed the shaft from the housing, I had to remove the bearing from the shaft and then a new issue arose: how to remove a stuck shaft woodruff key? In my case I kept pulling the bearing and it pushed the key out, the bearing broke though, but that's fine, since I'm replacing it.

Here is a video and some pictures:



arbor3.jpgarbor2.jpgarbor1.jpg

Originally Posted by campidelli

Hey Charlie! I know it! Hahaha, I even added you on LinkedIn to talk about this (sorry BTW).

To keep it cost effective I am going to use a VFD since it is hard to find a B5 flange single phase motor here in NZ for less than 300 dollars (I am going to pay 79 on the VFD at AliExpress).

It is an amazing project though, I am really enjoying the process

Cheers!

Good one you sure you got the right guy on linked in? Didn't see the request.

I did consider a VFD but the one I looked at was a bit more than a new motor and wasn't confident in setting up a VFD myself (& wasn't keen to spend the $$$ on a sparky to do it for me) - I believe they are pretty straight forward mind you, as long as you have the motor plate with all the details you just have to put in the motor specifics. There are some really cool options too like slow start up and motor braking at shutdown etc.
Where it all got a bit fuzzy for me was the Delta vs Star motor considerations BUT perhaps new VFDs get around this automatically and it doesn't mater so much?
The other consideration was the lose of power via a VFD (not sure if this is still the case), was told to expect a lose of ¼ of the HP of the motor using a VFD. Probably not that big a deal if you have a 3HP motor mind you.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

Good one you sure you got the right guy on linked in? Didn't see the request.

I did consider a VFD but the one I looked at was a bit more than a new motor and wasn't confident in setting up a VFD myself (& wasn't keen to spend the $$$ on a sparky to do it for me) - I believe they are pretty straight forward mind you, as long as you have the motor plate with all the details you just have to put in the motor specifics. There are some really cool options too like slow start up and motor braking at shutdown etc.
Where it all got a bit fuzzy for me was the Delta vs Star motor considerations BUT perhaps new VFDs get around this automatically and it doesn't mater so much?
The other consideration was the lose of power via a VFD (not sure if this is still the case), was told to expect a lose of ¼ of the HP of the motor using a VFD. Probably not that big a deal if you have a 3HP motor mind you.

Hi Charlie, yes they can be expensive to buy in AU/NZ but I found some cheaper options at AliExpress, only have to wait more. That is the only thing missing how, everything else has arrived and I am working on it everyday, little by little. The paint removal and the preparation for the new paint are the most time consuming tasks, especially because I am using a chemical paint stripper, if I had access to a sandblaster, my life would muche easier lol.

I have been working hard on this project, it takes a lot of time and effort to bring everything to bare metal, prepare, repaint, etc. But I am getting there.

This are all the parts of the saw, disassembled:
all-parts-1.jpegall-parts-2.jpeg

I have also started the painting preparation. For that I had to buy a paint stripper and use a lot of elbow grease to make it okay.
paint-removal-1.jpegpaint-removal-2.jpeg

An important note regarding this paint stripper: it is really dangerous, it is forbidden in some countries because it contains methylene chloride, seriously, this thing melts the gloves you normally use to handle chemicals. I am using it exclusively on the outside and using a respirator. It works well but also makes a mess. If I had access to a sandblasting cabin I would use it instead of this, but, as I said previously, I am doing this on a budget...

Yup I hate the stuff, I bought some heavy duty rubber gloves for working with chemicals which seems to work. Not sure what is worse using paint stripper or using a heavy duty wire wheel on a angle grinder.... I actually ended up using paint stripper first followed by a wire wheel. My garage floor is now stained with various shades of colour from the paint/paint striper - it's messy!

Would love one of those big industrial sand blasters for large parts!

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

... I actually ended up using paint stripper first followed by a wire wheel...

I do the same. I scrape as much paint and paint stripper off as I can - sometimes also using a hand held wire brush. I then wash the whole thing in hot water (if it's small enough to fit in in SWMBOs laundry tub). Then when the surface has dried (usually the next day) I attack the remnants of the paint with a wire wheel.

Difficult to buff corners get scraped with an old screwdriver or similar and then brushed with one of those toothbrush sized wire brushes.

It's fiddly, but gets the job done.

Cheers, Vann.

I tried to use my non-existent video editing skills to make a video showing how I prepared one piece for painting. This is an adaptor to connect the motor flange to the arbour.

Here in New Zealand it is a bit hard to find Hydrochoric Acid to remove rust, so after some research I found a very cost-effective solution for it: poll pH decreaser, also known as, Sodium Bisulfate. I have used about 13 grams per litre of water and it removed the rust quite well after 6 hours (I guess), as you can see in the video. To neutralise it I used baking soda, but I couldn't see any difference to be honest.

This method seems to be relatively safe, cheap and it is not too aggressive to the metal.

Cheers!