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  1. #1
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    Default FW Reynolds Imperial Drilling and Mortising machine

    Just committed to Rescue this Reynolds "Imperial" Hand Drilling and Mortising machine. Thanks to Stew for the heads up.
    Reynolds Hand Mortiser 001-1.jpgReynolds Hand Mortiser 001-4.jpgReynolds Hand Mortiser 001-5.jpgReynolds Hand Mortiser 001-2.jpg
    I haven't collected it yet but thought I would get the ball rolling on some research. Has anyone got one of these? From the pictures, it looks like the Collet that takes the chisels is missing. From what I have seen on line I don't think it would be that hard to manufacture a replacement. I would like to give this old girl a full restoration, if I can, as you don't often see machines from pre1900 and I think this one may be pre 1880. Everything is seized as you can imagine so will take a bit to get going again... Should look awesome when done though. I will add more pics after I collect it and share the restoration for those that are interested.
    Things that I am wanting to know
    1. Any images and or measurements of the chisel collet parts These will be the same as other models I am thinking
    2. Any info on the types of drills these take. The images in the catalogues look as though they are auger bits not sure if they are tapered shank or round. If tapered what sort
    3. Any pics and measurements of the handle on the drill Not sure if it was metal or timber.
    4. Any thoughts on colour scheme I am thinking that they would have been Black Satin with gold Embellishments.
    Thanks
    Gaza

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  3. #2
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    Nice!!

    I can't help with the colour scheme, except to say that black, or oiled bare cast iron are most likely - unless of course you find evidence suggesting Reynolds had their own livery.

    I don't have a Renolds, but I do have a Carron solid chisel mortiser: Carron Solid Chisel Mortiser It takes boring bits as well, but none came with the machine.
    It's still sitting at the back of my workshop/garage awaiting some love (and covered in timber blanks for the woodlathe ), but if there's anything I can help with, please let me know.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #3
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    Thanks Vann ..... I was wondering about those Broach type tools you referred to..... the FW Reyonlds catalogue they talk about the machine coming mortise chisels, core drivers, augers and reamers. The last two in association with the boring attachment...I have no idea what core drivers are and wether the broach tools you refer to might be such a beast...just a thought
    Gaza

  5. #4
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    I thought I would add a few Images from the pages Of Mathieson and WF Barnes catalogues that show chisels and Drill information that maybe relevant.
    Mathieson Machine Bits 001-1.jpgMathieson Mortiser Chisels 001-1.jpgWF Barnes Chisel Moritcer Chisels 1896001-1.jpg
    It's interesting that Mathieson was selling both the solid chisels and those with a hollow back.
    Gaza

  6. #5
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    And some more info.
    This is an extract from The journal of the Society for arts 1874
    Journal of the Society of the arts 1874-6.jpgJournal of the Society of the arts 1874-7.jpg
    Last edited by Gaza58; 20th May 2019 at 05:24 PM. Reason: add image

  7. #6
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    I brought the old girl home over the weekend... A bit more damage that I expected but all fixable.
    Here are some pics of what I am starting with.
    IMG_0551.jpgIMG_0552.jpgIMG_0553.jpgIMG_0554.jpgIMG_0555.jpgIMG_0556.jpgIMG_0557.jpgIMG_0558.jpgIMG_0559.jpgIMG_0560.jpgIMG_0561.jpgIMG_0562.jpgIMG_0563.jpgIMG_0564.jpgIMG_0565.jpg
    The Good news is that it looks like most bolts are free to undo. I will gradually get the various parts off and put them in the Electrolysis tank....once everything is removed and cleaned I will asses what needs fixing or replacing.

  8. #7
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    First part out of the electrolysis tank..... The big wheel that adjusted the work left and right.
    Big Wheel Cleaned.JPG
    I would like to restore this old girl to as close to original as possible and was wondering what everyone thought about the finish on the hand wheels. I see a lot of people polish the rims and paint the inner parts of the wheel. Looking at this particular wheel ... it doesn't look as though it was originally polished and may have been just a cleaned up casting. It is obvious that it was turned so the roughness may be just pitting from years out in the weather.
    The original Paint looks to be a black Bituminous type brew almost looks like japanning... The only remnants of the original paint is where it has seeped into some of the joints.
    Any thoughts on how it should be finished?

  9. #8
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    I've just had a look through the 15 photos in your previous post. That's quite a task you're taking on - but good on you for giving it a go.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza58 View Post
    First part out of the electrolysis tank..... The big wheel that adjusted the work left and right...

    ...Any thoughts on how it should be finished?
    The outer 270 degrees of the rim I would buff with a powered wire brush (I find a wire wheel on my 8" bench grinder works well), then treat the buffed area with a rust resistor such as camellia oil, lubricating oil, or maybe BLO.

    It depends on how determined you are, but japaning would almost be a step too far for me. I'd go for a black finish, satin or semi-gloss (to look like japanning) on the hub, spokes and inner part of the rim. Maybe an engine enamel?

    My tuppence worth.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  10. #9
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    Thanks Vann... I agree the japanning would be a step too far and probably not as durable as a painted finish. I like the wire brushed finish on the outer rim as well...I think the full polished rim would look too modern and not what was original anyway
    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I've just had a look through the 15 photos in your previous post. That's quite a task you're taking on - but good on you for giving it a go.
    Cheers, Vann.
    It certainly is going to be a mammoth job it get it back to a working machine... I was amazed that all the bolts came out reasonably easy.. some will need to be replaced as they are far too rusted to be serviceable. Of course its not just a matter of ducking down to the hardware store as most of the ones that need to be replaced are square headed. I will have a go at turning those from square stock.
    Mounting Bolt 001.jpg
    My biggest challenge is getting the screws and shafts out.
    Clamp-Screw_01.jpgClamp-Screw_02.jpg
    I have tried heat and still can't get this sucker to budge... Starting to think that I may have to just cut it off and make a get a new screw made.. which will require the casting to be bored out, sleeved and a new internal thread....who know what that will cost... it's a task that is beyond my little lathe or my skill level for that mater
    I will keep working on the bits that I can do for now and worry about the tricky bits later.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza58 View Post
    Thanks Vann... I agree the japanning would be a step too far and probably not as durable as a painted finish. I like the wire brushed finish on the outer rim as well...I think the full polished rim would look too modern and not what was original anyway...
    Here's what I did on my Wadkin LP handwheels.

    Handwheel.jpg

    Of course, you'll be looking for something a little less clown-ish in colour . My handwheels are wire brushed, with emphasis on the rims. Then brush primed and one coat of brushed enamel. Then after allowing the paint to harden for at least two days, I clean up any paint on the bare parts (emery cloth lubricated with WD-40) before a final coat of enamel. Followed by a further clean up.

    Some like to highly polish their handwheels - that's not my style. Some like a higher standard of paint (bogged, then sprayed). I do it this way or I know I won't make any progress. And I know I'll cry less when it get the first knocks and chips to the paint.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza58 View Post
    ...Clamp-Screw_02.jpg
    I have tried heat and still can't get this sucker to budge... Starting to think that I may have to just cut it off and make a get a new screw made.. which will require the casting to be bored out, sleeved and a new internal thread....who know what that will cost... it's a task that is beyond my little lathe or my skill level for that mater
    I will keep working on the bits that I can do for now and worry about the tricky bits later.
    I'd council a lot of patience, matched with a lot of penetrating oil - and the occasional heating. Don't rush into cutting bits off until you have to - unless you can easily replace with something better.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza58 View Post
    Any thoughts on how it should be finished?
    Beautiful looking thing Gaza .

    As Vann says with the paint, Black ,and not gloss.

    How much heat did you put into the piece with the stuck screw ?
    Did you get it glowing cherry red ? That'l do it surely ?

    Rob

  13. #12
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    I didn’t get it red hot....I don’t have an Oxy anymore.... and the MAP gas torch can only do so much.... the main shaft is the one I am really worried about...at this stage I haven’t got my head around how it goes together let alone how to get it apart...I am thinking it must have a key way inside the half gear.

  14. #13
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    Sometimes you just get a lucky break..... What looks like a genuine 1/4" Chisel to fit this machine.
    FW Reynolds 1-4_Chisel_001.jpgFW Reynolds 1-4_Chisel_002.jpgFW Reynolds 1-4_Chisel_003.jpgFW Reynolds 1-4_Chisel_004.jpgFW Reynolds 1-4_Chisel_005.jpg
    Why I am thinking it is a genuine chisel is the locating pin on the side of the taper. I haven't seen this on any of the American chisels and the machine that I have has a slot in the side of the socket to take such a locating device. I did read somewhere in my research the FW Reynolds had a patent on how the chisels were located in the socket and this is the first evidence of a chisel that has this that I have found.
    Gaza

  15. #14
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    Wow.. How did you find a chisel? Let alone one to fit your machine

    Cheers, Vann. I
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Wow.. How did you find a chisel? Let alone one to fit your machine

    Cheers, Vann. I
    Shear Ass I am thinking...... I have a full set of chisels coming from the UK but I think they are just a bunch of chisels that will fit but without the locating pin. One of them maybe a genuine one as it has the right shape and the two core drivers may be as well... won't know until they arrive. Will be a long time until I can cut some holes though.
    Gaza

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