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  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,341

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    When I did get mine back from having them ground (these days I grind my own ) I sharpen them on a stone same as a chisel . As far as I know, most of the sharpening services give them back finished on the grinding wheel , not honed .

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Langwarrin, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    55
    Posts
    677

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    My family has used these guys for many many years ...

    https://g.co/kgs/S3yu8g
    Glenn Visca

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Mansfield
    Age
    63
    Posts
    379

    Default

    I spent today truing up the feed tables..... or at least trying to. Quite a frustrating excercise. The feed out table now droops about 4 thou in the last 3 or 4 inches perhaps 5 thou at the very end according to my straight edge and a set of feeler guages. Is it necessary to have it better than that? I suspect i'll have to shim it if it needs to be more accurate.
    After that I reset the blade heights so they move the straight edge 5mm.

    99% of the tearout is gone but still getting snipe something cronic that no amount of adjustment to the feed in table is able to fix. It may be my technique but I'll have a look at some more vids and see what i can do about it.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,341

    Default

    keep raising the out feed table tiny amounts until the snipe is gone.
    If the snipe is happening at the end of a pass, at the end of the board, the end of your wood is dropping off the front table down to the level of the back table.
    A straight edge is used when setting up the blade height to the back table . The real test as to how good it is, is how it cuts the wood.
    If you go to far when raising the back table to get rid of snipe , you start to get a strange effect where no matter how many times you pass a board across, trying to take a cut, you cant get a full cut, it wont do it . So you have to lower the back table a tiny bit . .
    That's how I get my buzzer working well any way .
    When I do have a straight edge on the back table testing the height of the blade as I'm installing it , I don't think it would lift the blade and shift it 5mm forward , more like just kiss it, and not move the blade , at both ends of the blade. Do this to both the blades and then the back table adjustment is done after taking test cuts.

    Rob

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