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  1. #1
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    Default Wadkin CQ restoration

    Here we go again This one has been outside for a couple of years and is pretty rough. The strange thing about this one is that the whole thing is aluminium. It dates from 1948 so maybe made from old spitfires












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  3. #2
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    Hi Wallace. That's an interesting variation on Wadkin's "C" line of saws.

    It's a good thing there's a bit of water between you and Forsberg, or he'd be stealing that motor cover... .

    I hope you won't mind me half-inching your tag photo for the Extreme Wadkinitus thread? But before I do, can you confirm that's a "CO" not a "CQ"? There's a squiggle towards the bottom of the "O" that makes it look like a "Q" to me (and I'm showing my ignorance of obscure Wadkins here ).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
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    Mark,

    I am looking forward to seeing this one come to life. You really are doing a great job on these projects!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    can you confirm that's a "CO" not a "CQ"? There's a squiggle towards the bottom of the "O" that makes it look like a "Q" to me
    Vann,

    It is a Q, it was called the "Electric Snipper Cross Cut Saw C.Q."

    Cheers,

    Camo

  5. #4
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    I had to check that it was CQ, which it is as Cam said. I have a catalogue which has it listed as a CL.
    I find the taking to bits really fun for some reason. I used to always get wrong for taking my toys to bits as a kid








    On trying to take the spindle to bits I had some problems getting the blade clamp off. It would normally just come off with a puller, but it was having none of it. And then I bent the disc. You normally get a feel for how much pressure to put on something and I didn't think I'd gone too heavy handed.
    I took the spindle out and it became clear why I bent it. It had been repaired by brazing. To get the spindle out I put the nut back on to protect the threads, cover with wood and hit with a big boy hammer oh and heat it up.









  6. #5
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    Heres a close relative of the saw I'm doing a CL





    For the Australian contingent, this was stuck into the same catalogue





    Because this is cast aluminium I'm taking extra precautions when dismantling. Things are getting a good soak in plus gas and like this bit a little heat.





    I thought the bearings in the pivot a little overkill. The pivot on the mitre saw I did was just a bushing.





    I was taking a pic of a box of parts and noticed the end cap for the pivot broken.





    Looks like its been cracked for a while.





    Everything is stripped ready to de gunge



  7. #6
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    May 2007
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    North of the coathanger, Sydney
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    another refurb by the master
    watching with interest
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  8. #7
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    uk
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    A tad more progress. On checking the parts out I noticed there is a base coat of green paint. I wonder if its war paint or some kind of etch primer.





    I have been debating how to do the blade door. Do I do the wadkin in red like normal or leave it aluminium.





    In the end I went all Boyd Coddington



  9. #8
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    Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
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    Looking forward to swing how this turns out.
    The standard primer for Aluminium was Zinc Chromate and it is usually a light green but not always. The Zinc is between the Aluminium and Iron alloys in the galvanic table and helps to reduce corrosion of the Aluminium. Using standard Iron Oxide automotive primers actually makes Aluminium corrode faster.

    Pete, who didn't sleep through his aircraft mechanic training.

  10. #9
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    Thanks Pete, I normally use a zinc primer for my cast iron stuff but it just scratches off ali really easy. I went to get some more top coat paint recently and asked about etch primers. It normally costs £35 ltr but since I only need a small amount he found a rattle can of the stuff which was dented and gave it for free. I wonder if I should use my zinc primer after the etch or just go straight to enamel top coat.

  11. #10
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    Todays efforts.





    This piece is getting sprayed so I just cleaned up the casting with a flapper disc.





    I just wire wheeled the foot pedal





    The motor is pretty rough





    One end bell is cast iron and the other ali





    The fan is made from aluminium and is in bad way, I wonder if it will weld






  12. #11
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    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by camoz View Post
    ...Vann,

    It is a Q, it was called the "Electric Snipper Cross Cut Saw C.Q."
    Mark, I'm sure if you PM a moderator, they'll change the thread title to "Wadkin CQ Restoration" - just to help out future searches.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  13. #12
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    A few bits made pretty,








    A wonder why the colour difference, maybe someone got the recipe wrong whilst casting





    I quite the black look on some stuff, plus it helps stop the rust monster





    The bearings for the saw spindle look in decent condition





    I love doing these handles, I find it quite therapeutic








    It has a nice little damper












  14. #13
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    Sep 2010
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    Port Sorell, Tasmania
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    Your project looks to be coming along nicely. enjoying the photo's
    Would you mind describing how you cleaned and polished the spring in the photo above please.
    Tony
    You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde

  15. #14
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    Thanks Tony, pretty simple just used a wire wheel and then buffed with a mop and polishing compound.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Mark, I'm sure if you PM a moderator, they'll change the thread title to "Wadkin CQ Restoration" - just to help out future searches.

    Cheers, Vann.
    No need for a PM - this moderator just made the change
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

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