Thread: Wadkin mitre saw restoration

This bit is well and truly crusty.





The pin didn't come out when I tried with a punch so I had to hacksaw it off.





It had some major pits so I used my lovely 14" disc








This is how thy came off the sander





Next 40 grit on the power file








Then 120 grit





Then 120 grit glued onto formica to do the flat bits





Had to stop to make grub for the family so its done to 180 grit. Time taken for this was 2hrs

Just Groovy.

Thanks for going into the extra detail to see how you get from rusty to polished. Usually people just show before and after pickkies (not just you - but see your previous post). It's great to see it step by step - really helpful.

Originally Posted by wallace1973

The pin didn't come out when I tried with a punch so I had to hacksaw it off.

I have the same problem with the slider lock on my PK, and wondered if I dare hacksaw the pin. What will you use for a replacement pin (i.e. what size is it)?

Originally Posted by wallace1973

It had some major pits so I used my lovely 14" disc

Looking at the edge of that table, looks like it might be next to be refurbished...




Beautiful. Just beautiful.

Cheers, Vann.

Van I think sawing the pin was the safest method, I gave it a good wack and you know when somethings not coming out. I've had them before on a pk with a bent nail in. I was thinking of making a little brass pin with a little head on just for the bling factor. I got that disc sander a couple of years ago from foundry pattern shop. The problem is it works so keeps getting demoted down the list. I did a step by step because someone was asking what is really needed to get things done. I think there might be another 1.5hrs to finish it.

Beautiful work Mark !
You must have so much fun tinkering in your shop working on these projects
I wish I had more time ..
Thanks for showing your work here all step by step !

Melbourne Matty.

Matty I am quite lucky in some respects, when I'm not needed in the house I can pop out to my shop even for 30 mins.
The final part of this piece, everything sanded down to 1200 grit





And then polished








I needed a pin so stuck a brass bolt in the drill and sanded with the power file.








Shaped the head gave it a polish and voila

The angle strip is quite worn.








More shiny stuff





I have decided not to shine every bolt so I have blackened a few bits. This is the stuff you mix with water and it leaves an oxidised layer, you then spray with WD40 and wax.
I used this on the RS I did but since I sold it I don't know how good this stuff resists rust.

Great progress, this thing is going to be gorgeous when finished!

I have been on the look out for a motor, I went to see my local motor winders to see if he had anything suitable. I had a scout round his stash and found this little gryphon motor which is 1.25 hp. Its worth a punt for £15





I had a little strange encounter when I went to get my paint mixed. The guy has mixed my paint a few times and wondered why its always the same colour. I said I was restoring an old wadkin machine. Low and behold he used make wadkins. He worked at evenwood engineering at bishop Auckland. He worked on a big grinder that did the machine tops.
I got a few coats of zinc primer on everything

A little more done








I need some advice with regard to what size pulley to have on the motor. The pulley on the spindle is 83mm, the motor spins at 2850rpm. What size pulley should I have on the motor. I think the saw will take a 8-9" blade.

This was the little window into the blade guard.





I made a new one, one problem I had was the Perspex I was using was quite thick and I needed to heat it up quite a bit to achieve the bend. I ended up over doing it on a couple which causes bubbles to appear inside the stuff. In the end I just admitted defeat and will live with bubbles. I suspect my Perspex was too thick.








I had a bit of a drama with the enamel paint. I like it semi gloss but the paint guy didn't do it properly so I had to take it back and get it flattened. I then sprayed everything again and it was too shiny again. Strange thing was I gave a piece just a quick going over and it went the semi glass I wanted but where I'd laid down a few decent coats it was shiny when dry. Both sprayed at the same time. I've never experienced that before.








I wanted some brass washers so chopped rough shapes out drilled a hole and put them on the lathe.








I need a starter for this saw as the one that came with it is fugly. I bought a new old stock starter a while back and thought it would look perfect on this. Gutted its only rated for less than 1A at full load.





I found this one in my stash which may work. I don't know what the blue wire is for can anyone give me a clue (Bob)

Your doing a fantastic job there.

I was wondering when you tried to punch that pin out if you were able to try from both sides? Could it have been a taper pin and only gone one way?

I have a concern with Perspex for the blade guard as Perspex (acrylic sheet) will shatter easily with impact from flying debris, saw dust might be fine but anything bigger could be an issue. Can you get your hands on some polycarbonate instead?

Looking forward to seeing the finished machine.

I'm not sure if the stuff I used is actually Perspex. It cut easily with a jig saw.
On the final furlong. Decent masking tape is a really good investment





I made a mess up on polishing the off button. I put too much pressure and went through the red.





I always find tin tags a challenge. I think they were originally acid etched? and zinc plated.

Coming along nicely!