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  1. #46
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    4,355

    Default

    looks great. very neat!
    Rob

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,813

    Default

    Beautiful work Vann!

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Stockton
    Posts
    291

    Default

    Vann I have enjoyed this thread! The jointer looks beautiful! Keep up the excellent work!

    Stew

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    looks great. very neat!
    Quote Originally Posted by bueller
    Beautiful work Vann!
    Quote Originally Posted by bunya pine
    ...I have enjoyed this thread! The jointer looks beautiful! Keep up the excellent work!
    Thanks for the kind words guys.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default Replacement Cutter Block.

    I picked up a replacement cutter block last week.

    RB 324.jpg Replacement cutter block with micrometer blade depth adjustment, and provision for moulding cutters .

    Unfortunately it's not a straight swap. The operator end looks to be the same on both spindles, but the motor end is different. With the existing cutter block, there's reasonable clearance between the end of the spindle and the gearcase.

    RB 318.jpg RB 319.jpg Existing cutter block.

    With the replacement cutter block, the threaded portion is hard up against the gearcase.

    RB 320.jpg RB 321.jpg Replacement cutter block.

    I still need to move the entire cutterblock to the right (towards the motor) another ~4mm, so that the outer race of the bearing is against the shoulder, in order to get the end cap on.

    RB 323a.jpg Front end (operator end) bearing of replacement cutter block..

    And then get the nut on the motor end.

    RB 322.jpg Replacement cutter block.

    Overall the shaft is about ½" longer than the original. As I see it I have three choices:
    - machine a hole 2" in diameter in the end of the gear case, so the 1 7/8" nut can protrude;
    - use packers (and longer bolts) to pack the gearcase and motor ~ ½" to the right;
    - have the end of the shaft machined down to the same length as the original.

    Each option has it's pros and cons.
    - If I open the end of the gearcase, I'll need to seal it again to keep sawdust out of the gear teeth. I've contacted my brother in Dunedin and he's going to post the spare gearcase to me before Christmas - in case I go down this route.
    - If I move the motor ~ ½" to the right I'll need to drill new holes in the motor shelf.
    - If I modify the end of the shaft I can never return the cutterblock to it's original RB (to get the cutterblock I had to buy the whole - incomplete - RB buzzer).

    I'm hoping that once I'm familiar and confident in the setting-up and use of this RB, I might return and use the original cutterblock. I would then have the option of trying to restore the second RB (it's missing a motor, all electrical equipment, all guards, and its fence - none of which is an insurmountable problem). If I shorten the shaft that may not be possible.

    Other factors include: the herringbone gear fits nicely on both shafts, but the keyway slot in the gear is 1/4", while the keyway in the replacement shaft is 5/16". If I shorten the shaft I'll be into the keyway. The nut on the original shaft is 3/4" BSW, while on the replacement it's 1" 14tpi. Nothing major there.

    Decisions, decisions...

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  7. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default Decisions, decisions.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...Overall the shaft is about ½" longer than the original. As I see it I have three choices:
    - machine a hole 2" in diameter in the end of the gear case, so the 1 7/8" nut can protrude;
    - use packers (and longer bolts) to pack the gearcase and motor ~ ½" to the right;
    - have the end of the shaft machined down to the same length as the original...
    I made up two temporary 12mm wooden spacers today, and fitted them so that the whole gearcase and motor were moved 12mm. I was then able to move the cutter block ~4mm to it's correct location. I fitted the nut on the end of the shaft - this nut is larger and thinner that that fitted to the original cutter block. There is still clearance within the gearcase for the spindle etc. to rotate freely.

    RB 325.jpg RB 326.jpg Note the foot of the motor a third off the pad.

    The feet of the motor hang over the end of the machined pads on the motor mount casting

    I'm now inclined to go for the third option above: have the shaft shortened ~ ½".

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...With the replacement cutter block, the threaded portion is hard up against the gearcase.

    RB 320.jpg RB 321.jpg Replacement cutter block.

    (snip)

    Overall the shaft is about ½" longer than the original. As I see it I have three choices:
    - machine a hole 2" in diameter in the end of the gear case, so the 1 7/8" nut can protrude;
    - use packers (and longer bolts) to pack the gearcase and motor ~ ½" to the right;
    - have the end of the shaft machined down to the same length as the original...
    With the first option in mind I had my brother post up the spare gearcase (off RB 117) from Dunedin. It arrived on Friday, so I put the parcel under the Christmas tree until today. Now that the day's nearly over and everyones' gone home, I had a good look at it.

    RB 338.jpg RB 337.jpg Top half of RB 116's gearcase above both halves of RB 117's gearcase.

    I'm still not 100% sure which way I'll jump - but I've almost eliminated the second option (packers).

    Christmas cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  9. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default What a Saga!

    Quote Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970 View Post
    Hi Vann, just wondering how you were going on your own RB restoration?
    Melbourne Matty.
    It’s been a long saga. I needed new studs and nuts for my cutterblock(s).

    Wadkin buzzers of this era have a cutterblock that is for all intents and purposes a “clamshell” design. With a clamshell everything needs to be in good condition or there’s a risk a knife, working loose, might launch itself at the table, the operator, or any passing wall/ceiling. Worse still, if a stud/bolt snaps or strips, a 2.15kg lump of clamshell might accompany the knife in its journey (and that's from Wadkins smallest 5" dia. cutterblock). During the 1930s Wadkin added micro-adjustment to the cutterblock, which added a level of safety as the knives are now retained. However, stripped threads or fractured studs could still send the “clam” into orbit.

    I’ve read that the best way to tell if the threads on the nuts and studs of a cutterblock are stretched, is to remove the nut, turn it over, and attempt to re-install it. If the nut is tight, then the threads have been stretched, and the stud and nut should be replaced.

    The threads on the nuts/studs on the original cutterblock failed the test, and so I wanted to replace them. Replacement nuts and studs must be paired, with no more than 0.2g difference in weight, to ensure the cutterblock is balanced. The studs are 5/8” BSW, 2” long. Threaded 1" at the cutterblock end and 7/8” at the nut end – leaving 1/8” unthreaded as a collar to ensure each studs seats at the same depth.
    If you consider that a stud threaded 1/8” less into the cutterblock than it’s mate on the other side will have its centre of gravity (CoG) further from the axis of rotation giving a centrifugal imbalance far outweighing (no pun intended) any 0.2g weight difference.

    The existing studs on the cutterblock were individually made and had a range of difference in the location of the unthreaded collar. I assume these were replacements as I doubt Wadkin would have made anything with that amount of variation.

    The nuts/studs on the replacement cutterblock also failed the “turn-the-nut-over” test. These studs are more uniform, but I still felt that they should be replaced. They're also 1/8" shorter, with 7/8" of thread either side of 1/8" of unthreaded "collar".

    In order to ensure that the unthreaded collars on the new studs were all exactly uniform I decided I needed them made on a CNC machine. Last November I took a stud and a nut to a local engineering firm, and requested 50 studs (minimum economic run) be made. Shortly thereafter I ordered a similar quantity of nuts. Manufacturing took awhile as my jobs were low priority (these are expensive enough without paying a premium) but on 2nd February this year I collected the nuts (the studs having been completed earlier).

    However, I was concerned about the amount of play between the nuts and studs. These had the fit of cheap big-shed nuts and bolts, not precision engineered machine components. I expressed my concern to the manufacturer, and at the same time sent a nut and bolt to our L.S. Barker fan Matty, who sets and uses woodworking machines on a daily basis.

    The firm advised that they had slipped up with their quality control, and that the nuts were too large. They’d make a new batch of nuts – and we’d share the cost as I should have ordered the studs and nuts together (fair point). Matty advised that the nut fitted his studs perfectly and the stud was undersize. Hmm.

    My own measurements also suggested the studs were the problem – though I had no way of measuring the nut internal thread. However, the nuts were tight on my 5/8” BSW tap – and I have a lot of faith in Matty’s opinions.

    A lot of to-ing and fro-ing, then a change of job (that made it hard to visit the engineering firm during business hours). A problem for me is that I have a lot of money tied up in these studs and nuts, and will need to sell most of the surplus items to recoup some of my investment, meaning that no compromise (such as a suggested Loctite fix of the undersize studs) was possible.

    Finally last week I collected a new batch of studs, with a much improved fit. Phew.

    Nuts&Studs.jpg


    Cheers, a much relieved Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,501

    Default

    They look satisfyingly good.
    Now to reassembly!

  11. #55
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    456

    Default

    I had to have a stud and bolt made for my MJ but because I only wanted the one the cost was something like £30 which I suppose is fair considering set up time involved. The new bolt I got looked like it was off the shelf and nothing like a wadkin item. The fit was poor so I'm pleased I never got a full set done.
    I picked up some new old stock nuts a while back but they are bigger and meant for square blocks.

  12. #56
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
    Posts
    825

    Default

    Excelent outcome Vann, and l must say they certainly look the part.
    It's going to be great seeing this little jointer come together.
    Melbourne Matty.

  13. #57
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    ottawa canada
    Posts
    266

    Default

    All tools can be used as hammers

  14. #58
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jgforsberg View Post
    A few Differences.
    Yes, I think that's an RA (or RAA), the 6" version. Any more photos?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  15. #59
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    I've made almost no progress on my RB for many months. A bathroom upgrade has been my excuse for the last two months. I've also changed jobs and initially (the last four months) I've been working days - but I'm about to start shift work again, and that will result in more un-interrupted shed time - and hopefully some progress.

    Meanwhile, my relentless trolling of eBay UK has finally paid off - after 12+ months I've found (and won) a set of 9.25" slotted knives. I was so desperate I was considering purchasing longer slotted knives, cutting them to the right length, and attempting to grind a second slot. I'd even worked out that 12.25" knives would have the existing slot too close to the end. Not sure about 16.25" knives - and now I won't have to find out. My NOS knives are in transit from UK this week.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  16. #60
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
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    Default Spare Knives.

    Post removed (needs pictures). Will re-post when problem with picture posting is solved

    Every time I hit "Manage Attachments" I get a message that I don't have permission.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Last edited by Vann; 19th July 2018 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Again attempted to attach pictures - without success.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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