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  1. #31
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    Default

    If you paint the underside it might make it proud of the table, on my MJ I found very thin slivers of oiled paper under the lips being used as a shim

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  3. #32
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    Sep 2008
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    Petone, NZ
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    Default A Stand - and Other Progress.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...When this photo was taken on 10th of May this year it was located on a wooden bench 45” wide by 30” deep. It’s most likely the stand made for it when installed in the Hillside Railway Workshops ~1929.

    RB 201.jpg

    ...I’ve decided I’ll remake the bench using as much of the existing bench as I can. After all, the buzzer and the bench have been together for 88 years – no point in ending that relationship now if I don’t have to.

    RB 203.jpg RB 202.jpg

    (snip)
    I’ll have to make new legs and braces. They’ll be to the same pattern as the originals, but probably a bit taller (I don’t know the original height). I’m looking at up to 3' 4” as that's hip height...
    A few considerations reqarding the stand: I bought a macrocarpa "sleeper" from the local big shed (they have a very limited range of species: a bit of kwilia, some macro sleepers, or it's pinus radiata, H3, H1 or untreated) to make new legs and braces. When I cut it to rough size I found it was still saturated, so it's drying out until after summer. I am also unsure what height the make the bench.

    So I decided to make up a temporary bench (out of dismembered pallets) to test out both table height and chip opening. I decided to try 26" height, giving a table height of 36". I also decided to make the entire underside of the machine open to see how chip dispersal goes - I can close it off bit by bit until I get ideal filling of an underbench hopper - before I cut a larger opening in the original bench top (the original opening is less than half the area under the machine, and I suspect a lot of chips would have missed the hole).

    So having made up a temporary bench, I mounted the main casting, and then another few bits. I found a temporary starter/contactor and ran a few wires. Until yesterday morning I had this...
    RB 295.jpg RB 296.jpg RB 294.jpg

    And if you think that gear wheel looks a bit burred - that's because my sparky mate came yesterday morning. He meggered the motor, and checked my temporary wiring, and we had the motor running.

    Not bad for a machine I'm not even going to start on until after Christmas .

    Cheers, Vann .
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #33
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    Default A Little More Progress.

    By last evening it was looking like this...
    RB 297.jpg RB 299.jpg

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  5. #34
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    Default And a Little Bit More.

    Today I finished the outfeed "wedge".

    RB 301.jpg RB 300.jpg Before (photos taken in poor light - sorry).

    RB 303.jpg RB 302a.jpg After.

    And fitted it - and the fence.

    RB 304.jpg RB 305.jpg

    Actually, it's sort of posed. The infeed table will most likely have to come off to fit the the steel lip. The outfeed table height adjuster needs work, and the outfeed table jibs may need shims, as they currently lock the wedge down tight (too tight).

    There's only one more casting to clean up - the outfeed table. I dug it out of the rathole today, but haven't begun to clean it up yet.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  6. #35
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    Default

    I've just noticed the table and wedge are separate. On the RA its one casting and on the MJ. Is that so you can open the mouth for when using moulding knives?

  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    I've just noticed the table and wedge are separate. On the RA its one casting and on the MJ. Is that so you can open the mouth for when using moulding knives?
    Yes, and for changing the straight knives (seeing as this early one won't take moulding knives ).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  8. #37
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    Sep 2008
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    Default The Motor.

    The poor old motor looks rather bedraggled sitting there in amongst the new paint.

    RB 298.jpg

    Until yesterday, I didn't even know whether it would run - or just blow blue smoke .

    Anyway, it just passed the megger testing - even though it hasn't been run since ~2012, and spent several months in the rain (and snow?).

    The bearings are rattly. But I'm going to run it as is, in order to get the buzzer up and running, and probably until I shift the machine back to it's original bench. By then I hope to have the motor off it's sibling RB 117 (currently in storage in Dunedin - I missed collecting it by a week when in Dunedin in April), and I may run 117s motor on the buzzer while this one gets new bearings and a repaint - next year.

    Meanwhile, I've pumped in some grease (it still rattles).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  9. #38
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    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    Default

    Love the old motors! The 54 year old one in my jointer still has it's original bearings and runs smoother and quieter than any other machine in my shop. I had suggested to the motor rewinders that they be replaced while it was being delta converted but they insisted on leaving them as is because of how well it was running. I was hesitant at first but after they showed me how well it ran with fresh grease I'm glad they didn't.

  10. #39
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    Default The Cutterblock - and A Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I've also ordered two new bearings...
    The second bearing arrived a week or so back.

    RB 306.jpg

    Looking at the packaging, I guess there's New Old Stock (NOS) and New Older Stock . However they're both brass cage, double row, ball bearing races - exactly what the doctor ordered. The old one is Swedish, while the older one is made in USA.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...However, they're not going on to the cutterblock anytime soon. The cutterblock is in a bad way . I'm going to run it initially with the existing bearings while I decide on a plan B - but more on that in a future post.
    Welcome to a future post.

    The "clams" on the cutterblock are damaged as a result of the nuts being over-tightened. This has caused the base of the counterbore (where the nuts are recessed into the "clams") to dish, and the bottom to have a matching "rounding". Obviously the the forces exceeded the plastic limit of the steel.

    RB 278.jpg

    RB 277.jpg RB 279.jpg You can see the distortion here, around the stud holes next to the "15" & "16".

    The underside of each "clam" has a 1/32" recess machined the full length and most of the width (as visible in the above photos). I don't have any way of accurately measuring the "rounding" but at least one "rounding" on each "clam" exceeds this amount by at least a further 1/64".

    My machinist friend has offered to machine the undersides flat, and to spot-face the nut recesses flat. This will be quite tricky as this is a skewed cutterblock - so the "clams" are thicker at one end than the other.

    I'm not sure if this is the right course. If the steel has already failed ever so slightly, machining away material may weaken the "clams" further.

    So what to do?

    Cheers, Vann.

    I should probably be asking this question on a metalwork forum. I may repeat this post on OWWM or PM forums.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  11. #40
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    Apr 2012
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    I'd be tempted to put it in a press/vice and squash it flat with a piece of hardwood on one side and a few judiciously placed washers on the other to direct the force.
    It won't bend all the way, but might get you enough to avoid bottoming out.
    If it bent under the force of the nut being tightened it should go back without much trouble.

  12. #41
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    Default

    Does the RB head have the adjusting/retaining screw for the blades like the RM or is the blade kept in place purely by clamping force like the RA

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    Does the RB head have the adjusting/retaining screw for the blades like the RM or is the blade kept in place purely by clamping force like the RA
    Hi Wallace.

    AndyRV's RB - RB 183 of 1937 - has the adjusting/retaining screw, but these early RBs had the knives held purely by clamping force.

    You can see why I was keen on a spare cutterblock.

    RB 307.jpg

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  14. #43
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    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    Default

    Hi Vann . Machining it off and spot facing sounds like a it would do it well but its a bit of work too . Id be seeing if I could hit it back the other way on an anvil first. Or a decent size press ? Its got to be just mild steel to have changed shape like that under screw pressure I think . not some fancy tough stuff.
    I think as long as those stretched down bits are not kissing with anything lower you still have clamping pressure . Is that right ? Do you know if they are kissing or how far off they are from doing that?

    Rob

  15. #44
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    Default Outfeed Table.

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    If you paint the underside it might make it proud of the table, on my MJ I found very thin slivers of oiled paper under the lips being used as a shim
    As you (hopefully) can see, I only intended to paint the exposed underside of the lip - not the joint...

    RB 305.jpg

    I found a very thin sliver of something - possibly oiled paper (it looked a bit like cellotape) in the joint, under the lip of the infeed table. I initially put it aside to examine it more closely, but then un-intentionally threw it out when I cleaned up the mess .

    Yesterday I began cleaning up the very last casting - the outfeed table. There was no thin sliver of anything in that joint.

    RB 308.jpg RB 309.jpg

    Note the "J" stamped on the underside of the steel lip... (second photo above)

    ...ans a corresponding "J" stamped in the cast iron on the underside of the table...

    RB 311.jpg RB 310.jpg

    ...and a rough "J" painted under the table.

    RB 312.jpg

    Also note the "RB1". Wadkin's pattern shop numbered their patterns - but I'd have thought they'd have made the main casting pattern No.1, not the outfeed table pattern (it's like designing a new car and starting with the exhaust pipe )

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  16. #45
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    Default Nearly There.

    Just a little more progress.

    RB 314.jpg RB 313.jpg

    Since the last photos, I've removed and refitted the motor stand (with locating pins installed this time); fitted the gearcase; attached the lip to the infeed table; reworked the outfeed table adjuster; added the new fence handle; and fitted the tags.

    I hope to have the second (outfeed) table on by the end of the day.

    I'm partway through de-rusting and repainting the JT Peat Ltd "Ideal" guard and rear blade guard.

    At some point I need to remove the gearcase and fit the other herringbone gear. At that point there'll be some fine adjustment of the motor position, to ensure good alignment of the gears - and a little tidying of the temporary conduit into the motor. But first I need to resolve issues with the cutterblock .

    Cheers, Vann.

    Edit: both tables now in place.

    RB 316.jpg
    Last edited by Vann; 15th November 2017 at 08:03 PM. Reason: Additional photo with both tables added.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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