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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
    Posts
    825

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Hi Matty. The lathe came with two faceplates (screw onto the 1 3/8" headstock spindle); a screw centre (also screws onto the 1 3/8" headstock spindle). These are all genuine Wadkin parts AFAIKT. Then there's a live centre stuck in the MT2 tailstock.

    So I need a spur centre to fit the MT2 taper in the headstock spindle. I assume any commercial MT2 spur centre (such as the one pictured above) will do?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Vann its great your lathe came with those parts, it would not be easy chasing these parts if they were missing and the truth is a face plate would be easier to make than find.
    Yes to the spur drive center or a crown drive also, both will do the job !

    Melbourne Matty.

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  3. #62
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970 View Post
    Yes to the spur drive center or a crown drive also, both will do the job !
    Thanks Matty. I've ordered the spur centre.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I just need to tighten everything and put the lid on the electrical box.
    Done! Before I screwed the top down I noted the number "2" stamped in both headstock and lid. I suspect that represents that this was the second RTA in the batch being assembled. Mark (wallace), on CWW, noted a No."4" under the paint on his RTA.

    aRTA32.jpg

    I've taken the drum switch handle to a mate to have it bored and a pin fitted. While waiting (he can't do it until late next week) I had a bit of a tu-tu with the machine.

    Following some friendly banter with Alli regarding 1950s Wadkins in green (on DSEL's Wadkin thread), I've been wondering about the colour scheme - it's a greenish/bluish grey. I removed the tag to reveal Wadkin grey below.

    aRTA31.jpg

    And I removed the make-shift handle on the tool holder camshaft - to reveal the welded and broken stump of the original lever.

    aRTA33.jpg

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  5. #64
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Beach
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post

    Following some friendly banter with Alli regarding 1950s Wadkins in green (on DSEL's Wadkin thread), I've been wondering about the colour scheme - it's a greenish/bluish grey. I removed the tag to reveal Wadkin grey below.

    aRTA31.jpg



    Cheers, Vann.

    Undercoat! Primer!

    I know guys like women in underwear but now you Wadkin fetishists like your machines in undercoat.


    Have fun,
    Alli

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    While I wait for the speed selector handle to be machined, I considered dismantling and repainting the tool post holder. But it put up a fight (cam shaft burred at both ends). It still works okay. And as I still hadn't manged to get the live centre out of the tailstock...

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann
    To remove the live centre from the tailstock. The cattledog cuts Matty posted (and the RS catalogue cuts online) state "The centres are self-discharging". I take this to mean that if I back the tailstock poppet back as far as it will go, it will eject the live-centre? I've backed the poppet most of the way, but it gets very tight towards the end - and I wondered if that was because of the dings in the poppet
    ...so I decided to give the tailstock my attention instead.

    Quote Originally Posted by Allison74 View Post
    I know guys like women in underwear but now you Wadkin fetishists like your machines in undercoat.
    Not just underwear/coats Alli. I like my machinery stripped bare .

    aRTA35.jpg aRTA36.jpg

    These two pieces, and the handwheel, are now in undercoat. I've got two new ⅜" ball oilers, and this morning I ordered some taper pins (and a reamer) to replace any that need it (the taper pin through the handwheel boss had been replaced by a bolt ). The tailstock will be painted in Wadkin grey - which may look a bit odd on an otherwise bluish/greenish grey machine, but I can live with that.

    And I managed to get the live centre out by inserting a steel rod through the "poppet" (once the shaft was removed) and tapping the inner end with a hammer.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  7. #66
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Beach
    Posts
    165

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    Well Wadkinistas,
    A 10" RS just went for $1700 plus premiums at auction so I'm sure you are all feeling good about your investments.

    On the other hand a 16" RD jointer went for $320 which is cheap I reckon.

    A 32" Danckaert planer went for well under $100.

    Every one wants to be on the Green team

    Bare?? No sense of mystery at all.

    Have fun,
    Alli

  8. #67
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,205

    Default

    Cam and I checked these out yesterday.
    They were a bit sad.

    The big Dankaert was junk.
    All were very rusty, the jointer cutter head wouldn't turn.
    The lathe was very rusty in spots and fine elsewhere, only came as in pics no banjos/tool rests or faceplates.
    They were possibly in a leaky container under a torn tarp or similar.
    H.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  9. #68
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Beach
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Close to $2000 dollars plus freight because the buyer was in Vic.
    I hope he gets his money's worth.

    Have fun,
    Alli

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    ottawa canada
    Posts
    266

    Default

    Wow that one is poorly taken care of . A late-model to. We're seeing the RS Fitch six grand.
    All tools can be used as hammers

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Posts
    775

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    Alli,

    Almost $2100 with all the fees, then add freight, but then as you know they don't usually come up often (well except for the recent run), I'm sure the problems could be fixed, but it's not going to be plug and play. The RD was a good price, still over $400 with fees, but it had been treated poorly, we couldn't free the cutter head and everything was seized, not to say it couldn't all be fixed, but I think the photos made it look better. The RD was one that I was seriously considering, but too many wrong time purchases already.

    Cheers,

    Camo

  12. #71
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    Thanks for the pictures Henry . I was watching that today . Its way more rusty than Greysonline hopeless pictures showed. Your pictures show so much more and it also looks so much more of a beast with the angles you took it at as well. Much nicer .

    If I wasn't up to my neck in shifting I may have thought about it a little more . A grand to get it down here is a lot . cheap compared to going up and getting it I suppose.

    Did you see the belt set up on it ? it said it had a V belt . Were the pulleys changed and a new motor ?

    Rob

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Posts
    775

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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    Did you see the belt set up on it ? it said it had a V belt . Were the pulleys changed and a new motor ?

    Rob
    Rob,

    Just poor description, it was the standard setup (flat belt)

  14. #73
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    BELL POST HILL, 3215
    Age
    87
    Posts
    2,332

    Default The Spur Drive.

    Hi Vann,
    This may cause a stir.
    Rather than buy a new Spur drive centre, which I do not own any more, I now make my own. Very Easy + a lot better.
    Find a No2 Morse Taper Drill. Cut the drill part off, now you may have to anneal it a bit, so as you can turn it with your HSS Tools.
    Mine are all Ring & Cone, that pre-seeded those steb centres, that when you get a catch, they bore a hole in your wood.
    Well mine don't do that, as all the do is Spin on the Ring, so you just tighten the Tail Stock,a whisker.
    It is quite easy to Turn Steel in a Wood Lathe.
    The Tool I use is a piece of McJings 3/8in.Sq.Steel, & grind it to that Skewchegouge.
    I take it you may know what that is, if not Google it.
    Anyway, it cuts the Steel just like butter, & with a bit of speed, & not to slow, & of course you can have big ones & smaller ones.
    These drive Centres are very safe, as the wood will not leave The Lathe, & that is the main reason that I use these.
    Thatismy2senseworth.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

  15. #74
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    ottawa canada
    Posts
    266

    Default

    Vann couple things to note about the RS Morris 2 taper and I am Sure the RT is the same. The headstock taper is not a bore through the spindle and therefore doesn't contain a drawbar . Therefore you're not going to knock out a standard Morris taper tooling by wrapping the drawbar on the back outboard side. Wadkin's method of removing tooling from the taper was to have flats for spaner so you could twist the taper loose whist the spindles is locked . Common Morris taper tooling with the drive key on the end will need to be ground off to fit in both head and tell stock tapers . I have just simply ground flats on off the shelf tooling and you'll need to use a grinding stone in a die grinder for the hardened dead centres . For Chuck's Oneway here in Canada makes an adaptor for the 1 3/8 X 6 BSW threads and also supplies on number of options that fit in the chuck Including Modern drive spurs with the spring-loaded centres . I find these actually quite convenient . Lastly the RS benefits greatly by a Morris 2 the Morris 2 extension in two ways . First it allows you to get closer behind the work near the head stock and secondly it allows morris 2 taper drill chucks and drill bitswith the drive key to fit .
    All tools can be used as hammers

  16. #75
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by issatree View Post
    Rather than buy a new Spur drive centre, which I do not own any more, I now make my own. Very Easy + a lot better.
    Find a No2 Morse Taper Drill. Cut the drill part off, now you may have to anneal it a bit, so as you can turn it with your HSS Tools.
    Mine are all Ring & Cone, that pre-seeded those steb centres, that when you get a catch, they bore a hole in your wood.
    Well mine don't do that, as all the do is Spin on the Ring, so you just tighten the Tail Stock,a whisker.
    That sounds a good idea. However, I ordered a spur drive last Friday (and I'm disappointed it hasn't arrived yet). I also don't own an MT2 drill bit (my drill press is only MT1). I assume I should be looking for a munted MT2 bit of at least 1" diameter? Or bigger?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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