Thread: Boat Steering Setup advice needed.

I dunno the answer but why dont you go see a power boat service centre and ask them for ideas or crawl over one of their boats?

Andrew

Thanks Andrew,
There is a way to connect it all, just need some ideas. I'll check out some boat dealers as you suggest.

Thanks,
redx.

Hi Redx, actually thinking about this some more, is that cable system one of those push pull ones in one sorta stiff cable? If so I imagine that the outer has to be mounted solidly to a hull member and the inner, driving piece moves back and forth on the tiller end. it looks like from pics that a timber could be mounted for/aft between the transom and that timber under tiller slot, then your outer cable can come around in front of bait bin underneath. You obviously will need a tiller but the length will be a bit experimental, a toss up between leverage and swing. hope this makes sense and good luck

Hi Redx
You didn't say wether you already own the Techflex steering cable and components but if not then consider a hydraulic steering systen eg Hydrive because it looks like would be much easier to run a (more flexible) hydraulic line in your situation.

The Teleflex units come with different style ends to suit the outboard you intended to use. Since you'll be using a tiller, you'll probably need to modify the cable end slightly. The cables are also dependent on the Teleflex system you use (QC, T, NFB, etc.).

If you have a Teleflex helm (unit the steering wheel mount to) now, it needs that style of cable, plus the end you desire, which would likely be:



something like these. The actual one you'd like will depend on how you envision setting it up. There is a bracket you can get to make a non-compliant engine compatible with a particular cable end type. This might be the easiest way to go. Remember the cable end has to be able to swing through the arc of the tiller, yet firmly mounted to the hull. They have brackets for this too.

If unfamiliar with these types of systems, you're best advised to head down to the local marina and have a look at various setups. There are dozens of different arrangements, but all work in a similar fashion. Hydraulic is a costly option, but one that is easily understood. I don't think you need hydraulic, but it's a available.

Hey Redx,

For your Steering system don't stuff about with the Cable option, go the Hydraulic System, the cable system is good for engine and gear selection purposes,

HazzaB

Thanks to all you fellas for the good advice.

I don't own any steering system as yet, and I have looked enviously at hydraulic setups but cannot stretch the finances far enough to get one. Instead I was intending to purchase a telescopic cable type setup as soon as I figure out the best way to adapt it to my boat. The only things I have at the moment is a rudder and a wooden ship's wheel which has a 3/4" taper in the hub.

Andrew suggested I run the cable through a mounting in front of the bait trough. It's a good suggestion and is probably what I'll do but it raises two questions regarding the length of the bracket from the rudder.

1. If I run the cable behind the bait trough then the bracket will be shorter. Would this work because it would probably make it harder to turn the rudder?

2. If I run the cable in front of the trough then the bracket will have to be longer. This means the rudder will be easier to turn but the cable will have to push further out to achieve the same degree of turn. I read somewhere that a rudder only swings 70 degrees of arc, so going by that it would mean the cable would have to extend about 2 feet. How much travel do these Teleflex type cable have?

redx

Teleflex cables work for outboards because they are turning a thrusting unit, not a deflecting force. This is to say that there is very little resistance to the turning motion, as it is the thrust provided by the motor which offsets the stern in order to turn the boat.

A rudder arrangement works on the deflection of a large amount of water to affect the same result so we need a significant leverage advantage to allow this to happen. Think about the force required to pull the tiller over if the boat tries to round up on you.

I would say this is beyond the capabilities of a push cable (you are asking if the cable could push over 2 feet). Cable steering for rudder steering needs to have two cables either side, both pulling, to be effective. Further, you'll be wanting some form of gearing to overcome the leverage disadvantage from effectively having a short tiller arm. (Imagine trying to steer your boat with a pair of vice grips)

The "old style" cable and pulley sytem has been around since Mosses played fullback for Jeruslem, and many a sea worthy vessells still use them. For the backyard builder on a limtted budget there is many advantages to this tried and proven method.
1.You can build most of the componets out of the local scrap yard,
2. You don't have to be a rocket scientist to fit and maintain a basic system.
3. when every thing goes pear shape just drop the pins out, slot the tiller back in and away you go.
Which bring me to the next point, if you wack the tiller back on, grab a mate and a six pack put the boat back in the water and you will be able to work out how you are going to do it while you catch tea.

Ian L

After reading the replies from Darce and Wavedancer I've decided to go back to Plan A by installing a cable and pulley system. I think I just needed someone to say that I'm not making a backward move by doing that. Waverunner said it nicely.

Many thanks to everyone for once again replying to my questions.

Cheers,
redx.