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Thread: Building a Waller TS540
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25th November 2009, 10:38 AM #271
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25th November 2009, 01:21 PM #272
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25th November 2009, 07:00 PM #273
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25th November 2009, 07:18 PM #274
AJ I'll need to think very carefully before I respond........OK, um perhaps.
Rob,
I hope you have a series of pics that show how you did that, in particular how is the teak section held on. I'm trying to picture a turned tenon or is it a threaded joint ah la pool cue or what?
In any event it is a beautiful thing you have done there.
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25th November 2009, 08:05 PM #275
Thanks Mike, but I didn't take many shots. But the technique is simple enough: take a square sectioned core (in this case 18mm square oregon) and put 4 layers around it (in this case 6mm thick teak strips left over from the deck) so that the rod now looks totally teak (or whatever). Because I wanted to have a bigger diameter 'bulb' I built up another shorter layer at one end, so for about 120mm the core was 'double wrapped'. This was all turned on a lathe, and a steady taper produced the 'pointed' outer layer, while the bulb stayed totally teak.
So the thin end of the taper reveals all the oregon now, but round in section. You can see the two layers of teak in the bulb. BTW the bulb looks separate because it isn't varnished. It just has a little oil and will only get hand sweat from now on! That will make it feel good in the hand.
Hope that makes sense.
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25th November 2009, 08:25 PM #276Deceased
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25th November 2009, 09:15 PM #277
Ah ha you sneaky bugga and here I am thinking you must have developed some trick scarfing system.
If I had taken the time to study the pic. I see now the oregon core, now to tuck that away for when I have a lathe.
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25th November 2009, 09:24 PM #278
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25th November 2009, 09:39 PM #279Deceased
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25th November 2009, 10:36 PM #280Member
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Fantastic bit of work with the tiller extension Rob but I hate to say it but you're going to need some more grip on that thing!! When the ##### hits the fan you need to be able to have perfect grip with wet hands.
Also isn't the knob on the end going to get dropped and chip your beautiful paint work??
Some grip in the form on tennis racket grip or tape will make a world of difference.
As I said, not trying to bag your work, which is phenomanal but simply trying to help by playing devils advocate!!
Mez
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26th November 2009, 10:38 AM #281
Thanks Mez. I'm always happy to hear an experienced voice, I really appreciate your input, and so will other readers of this post. I knew when I decided to do this rather than buy one of the aluminium ones in the shop that mine would be heavier, less strong and less adjustable for length, as well as less easy to grip than some. Despite all that I wanted to have a wooden one.
I considered a rope grip, and maybe a rubber ring. Tennis racket grip is a good idea, and I'll certainly consider it. This extension won't easily store strapped to the tiller either, because of the shape of the tiller coming up from under the traveler, and that's why I needed to be able to take it off quickly.
I guess I need to leave it as is until I get a feel for how it works. This may be a race type boat, but I won't be into any sort of competition, unless boat ownership produces some sort of genetic mutation in me and there are plenty of extensions out there made entirely out of a piece of dowel with a naked, unimproved end, so I'm open to learn from experience. I know though, that if you have a 'fan' at some point, stuff of a smelly kind is bound to hit it....
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26th November 2009, 08:37 PM #282
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26th November 2009, 09:50 PM #283Senior Member
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Rob,
I promise you, two sailboats equal a race.
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27th November 2009, 03:00 PM #284
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27th November 2009, 08:37 PM #285
To-day we have shrouds, stays and halyards. It was good to learn that at a pinch I can lower the mast with out help, using the winch to keep some tension on an extended forestay. Getting her out of the shed and looking a bit more vertical was very satisfying.
You just can't hide behind that mast, even built like me...
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