Thread: doing something to a TS16

Now that is cool.

AJ a TS with a bow sprit is something to think about and I like the idea of a sprit, offset plate........actually just buy the plans and start again.

Plus how do I get my hands on one of those 5HP PAR units?

OK... tabernacle ditched.
A "feature" of the TS is that spray seems invariably aimed at the cockpit already,
which is the reason my doodles show higher cockpit sides, and the previous
owner laminated up extra wide outwales.
Sounds like the forward mounted mizzen would make this even worse.
I wonder how Ross L & B&B Boats managed this issue with Periwinkle and
the Core Sound series.

As eliminating the standing rigging and shortening the boom length were
always on my wish-list, you'll perhaps be understanding if I seem
reluctant to let go of a split rig on stayless masts...

In any event, the flush deck would seem to be the way to go, so pending
deciding a rig, that's probably the direction to start dissecting.

I've never sailed the Periwinkle, but have the Core Sound and the CS is a wet ride. It's not as bad as some, but certainly more so than most. The CS series all have a modest amount of sweep in the forward portions of the sheer and modest freeboard, so you get what you'd exspect. In fact the last of the CS series has higher freeboard proportionally then the others, because it was intended to race in the EC challenge and Graham didn't want to get as wet.

If you want freestanding masts, you'll need "purchase"; how much is dependent on the amount of area in on that particular stick. The main on the CS-17 has about 24" (610 mm) of bury on a 19' (5.8 m) stick, carrying 63 square feet (5.8 sq. m) of sail and is well braced by the deck.

That's the PAR 5L and you can send me a check and I'll have one dropped shipped on your door step.

where do I send the cheque?

Moving on to stuff that has to be done, whatever other decisions are made...
Removing the cockpit coaming.
Been putting this off since the day I brought it home.
Overkill city.
This has been epoxied to deck and clamp, & nailed every 2" though to the sheer clamp.
On both sides.
The nails on opposite sides of coaming & its clamp are neatly staggered, so
that from a side view, there is only 1" between nails.

Attachment 216316

Attachment 216317

As the hull appears to been built traditionally, I figure I can't really just cut
the nails off & leave the offcuts in the wood, as would be possible with a
fully epoxy encapsulated build. I don't know if there is even a blade or tool
which could quickly cut both wood and nails without starting a fire. A Fein
(or copy) could do it, but s-l-o-w-l-y... Best option I can see is to cut just
above the deeply recessed nail heads with a reciprosaw or chainsaw. Then
chisel away enough wood to pull the nails, before removing the remaining
wood with an appropriate power tool. Cannot see a quicker way which will
leave the deck & structure underneath intact.

Wuz gunna do this today - hoping for some respite from "other duties as
directed" to tackle it tomorrow instead...

Afterthought... this seems to be original fitment, which means the cabin
is likely to be similarly well attached...

Joy.

Well that went surprisingly well.
Almost easy once I abandoned the mindset of neatly removing all in one go,
and adopted brute force as the primary modus operandi.
Am guessing the main glue used was resorcinol - black & didn't stick all that
well where the parts weren't a near perfect fit. Only ruined one chisel on the nails...

Also occurred to me that I can fit 3x mast steps & partners to try out various sail
plans, while leaving the original bits in place. Weight penalty for doing this would
be only a couple of kg. and they'd double as beach umbrella stands or rod holders.

Now that I can move the boat around a bit to work on it, & have crawled
over it a bit, have seriously re-thunk the flush deck. Works ok on big boats
with lots of beam & ballast, but the TS16 is probably a bit light to shift 100kg
or whatever of body weight 500mm higher. The standard height foredeck is
easier to access from a beach too. Gunna run with the lengthened and
heightened cabin roof, balancing the looks with higher cockpit coamings.

Found some old pics too. I rather like these from AABB of Margy Callaghan's
Summer Haze. I think it may have started life as a TS21. It'll do in terms of
general profile & proportions anyway.

Attachment 217134 Attachment 217135

A mainmast abaft frame 1 would have 900mm of bury, step on the chunky
bit of the stem/forefoot 500mm forward of where it tapers into the keelson,
be 650mm from the stem, and 950mm forward of the original mast. The mast
step 'box' John Welsford uses for Houdini is interesting. It guides the mast
onto the step, and by sealing it to the cabin and making it free-flooding via
a drain hole it eliminates the need to seal around the partner. This would
be a good thing in view of the sort of chunky mast needed on this fairly stiff
(for a 16-footer) hull. Haven't done the research yet, but it looks like I'd be
looking at around 90-100mm aluminium forward, & 50mm aft.

Also found some more pics of my old boat #1231

Attachment 217140 Attachment 217141

The bridge deck was really practical on that boat. It gave stowage space
under it inside the cabin - portaloo & tubby crates, and a comfy lounging flat
athwartships. The boat is small enough that it isn't a huge step up into or
out of the cabin. The extra bulkhead formed the forward wall of a sealed
under cockpit buoyancy chamber.

Originally Posted by b.o.a.t.

The bridge deck was really practical on that boat. It gave stowage space
under it inside the cabin - portaloo & tubby crates, and a comfy lounging flat
athwartships.

Yoink!

Good news I'm glad you've torpedoed the flush deck idea I agree on a TS the weight up high may not work so well, besides I can't stand the look.
With apologies to Hood 23 owners I can't work out how they ever sold.

Funny how tastes vary isn't it.
I like the Hood flush deck : my eye says sleek. Also very roomy.
First encountered one at the Brissie boat show when it used to be held
at The Valley swimming pool. About 50 trailerable & small keel boats
craned into the pool. After sitting in the Hood 23 shoal draft, I found myself
using it as a yard-stick for everyting else. Few other boats came close in
terms of layout and room.

Spent some time today sorting out my work space in the carport.
Rebuilt the bench I built the kayaks on, stiffer, square & new melamine top.
Threw out much rubbish, and set up some polytarps to keep rain off bench
and dust off stuff stored on & under it. Started shaping a couple of foil
blanks I made 2-3 years ago before the retaining wall emergency scuttled
a PDR build. Not 100% sure I'll use them, but now that I've figured out
answers to a couple of support issues I had with the exposed cases, it.
makes some sense to proceed.

Work is a seriously over-rated pastime.
Been picking up some hours teaching basic elektrickery at Regency TAFE.
First time doing this, & as I cannot abide instructors who are not fully
prepared, it's costing about 2-3 hours prep for every hour in front of a
class. This is making an abyssal hole in my shed time.
Also the Boss is off galivanting around Vietnam with a girlfriend, so am
playing Mr Mum as well. Have made some trickle progress though, so
not all is lost.

Work space pic.
Attachment 219536

Bilge boards are shaped and weighted, pivot & lifting points drilled & filled.
Will add a trailering support pin hole after the cases are built (next Julember).
Attachment 219539

Only 20mm thick in old old oregon - could support my weight before planing
to profile, but significant flex. Routed 1mm deep channels for some stiffening
bands of uni-directional CF. Might not make much difference, but I can at
least pretend to myself to have done something useful. CF strips certainly
make a difference to the deck stiffness of my kayaks.
Attachment 219537

Unsuccessful in obtaining wheel weights from local tyre outlets. Bought some
salvaged roof flashing from a recycler for $2/kg instead. Bashed it out flat
(a very satisfying activity ), cut it into 50mm x 280mm strips. Used about
1.5kg in each board, about 50% over the calculated required, & packed the
strips out with 4mm plywood each side.
Attachment 219538

Started investigating CB case removal. Discovered a previous owner solved
the "issue" of water pooling around the case bolt nuts was to fill the recesses
with pox. Personally, I'd have extended the holes out to the case log
sides to drain them. <shrug>
Attachment 219540

Turns out that Dremel gouging tools easily remove the pox. It's just a bit
uncomfortable squeezing my stiff carcase down low enough to do the grinding.
Attachment 219541

Work will probably cease now for a month while I prep for 4 weeks teaching
in Sept/Oct. There's a world of difference between being able to read various
electrical drawings, and teaching people how to draw them, including the
relevant standards & legals... <sigh>

Tres cool

AJ what about an update

I'll second that motion . . .