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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Tennessee
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    Default Fiberglass putty... need advice

    I am building a small wooden pram...I need to putty all the seams and bed my athwartship frames in putty. Could any of you recommend a good but inexpensive putty. It is said that I could use putties found at Lowes or Home Depot...also...I have a can of water putty...could this be used? Is there an epoxy water putty?

    Thanks

    Seatime

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
    Age
    67
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    937

    Default

    G'day Seatime, welcome to the forum.

    It sounds as if you are going to do gluing and what I know as filleting - but it may not be that. Can you describe the construction method and possibly tell us the name of the design? Any details may help someone here give the right advice.

    For filleting material when building a ply kayak I used epoxy thickened with sawdust or sanding dust (this is OK if bought or collected clean - don't use floor sweepings). There are other commercial fillers, including things to make it less dense (ie lighter) but these are not essential. The advice I had on adding the thickener was to keep adding until the mix is the consistency of strawberry jam - and I've found this works well.

    If you haven't sourced epoxy yet then be sure to buy a marine grade. Hopefully PAR will post here soon - he's only a couple of states away and may be able to put you onto a good source. Check out his epoxy primer here:
    PARyachts: Epoxy Tips & Tricks

    If you do a google search on "filleting boat seams" or similar you should find some other tutorials and youtube videos that may help too.

    Good luck with it and do post some photos here if you can. We like pics
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    Welcome to the forum.

    Thanks Bob (well at least one guy has visited my site ), though Tennessee is a considerable distance (700+ miles from me), supplies and materials can be shipped about anywhere.

    I'd second the previous comments about needing to know what you're trying to do, the building method, possibly the actual set of plans you're working from etc. There are lots of "putties" and Lowe's/Depot doesn't have anything that's really marine suitable. They do have some moderately applicable sealants, but these are mostly just polyurethanes (caulk), which are different from what I suspect you need.

    Most of us make our own from epoxy. Though I've recommended wood flour previously, I don't any more, except as a color matching agent. Unless the wood flour is exceptionally fine and a particularly dense hardwood, it tends to let the goo run out of the fillet or joint as the exotherm process heats up. This said, I do use mahogany (or appropriate species) dust to color repairs, which helps hide things, but this is more art form than practical. In fact, it's much faster to use a pigment if just trying to match color.

    In any case, tell us what you're building and be a bit more specific about stuff, so we can be too.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3

    Default Reply

    THANKS FOR GETTING BACK FELLAS
    ...I AM BUILDING A STITCH AND GLUE PRAM 7'8". I NEED TO FILLET THE SEAMS BUT DONT WANT TO BUY THE EXPENSVE EPOXY THATS OUT THERE. I HAD HOPED YOU GUYS KNEW OF SOMETHING CHEAP THAT WOULD DO.

    HERE SHE IS:





    Quote Originally Posted by PAR View Post
    Welcome to the forum.

    Thanks Bob (well at least one guy has visited my site ), though Tennessee is a considerable distance (700+ miles from me), supplies and materials can be shipped about anywhere.

    I'd second the previous comments about needing to know what you're trying to do, the building method, possibly the actual set of plans you're working from etc. There are lots of "putties" and Lowe's/Depot doesn't have anything that's really marine suitable. They do have some moderately applicable sealants, but these are mostly just polyurethanes (caulk), which are different from what I suspect you need.

    Most of us make our own from epoxy. Though I've recommended wood flour previously, I don't any more, except as a color matching agent. Unless the wood flour is exceptionally fine and a particularly dense hardwood, it tends to let the goo run out of the fillet or joint as the exotherm process heats up. This said, I do use mahogany (or appropriate species) dust to color repairs, which helps hide things, but this is more art form than practical. In fact, it's much faster to use a pigment if just trying to match color.

    In any case, tell us what you're building and be a bit more specific about stuff, so we can be too.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3

    Default

    PS....I meant to say epoxy wood putty instead of just " epoxy " in my reply. This feature (messages) site is not working properly.

    THX

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  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    If that is a taped seam build (stitch and glue, etc.) then you have to use thickened epoxy in the seams and the fillets. The only reason stitch and glue builds exist, is because of the abilities of epoxy. In other words, if it wasn't for epoxy, this build method wouldn't be viable.

    Again, it's time to get specific about your needs and what you're doing. What brand of epoxy are you using, what design are you building, where are you getting your fillers?

    That looks to be a Mertens design and his site is a good place to get materials. Use their "Marinepoxy" instead of the name brands, as it's just as good at 1/2 the price.

    The cost of epoxy for a project like that will be modest. You'll need maybe a gallon if you're frugal, maybe a gallon and a half if you're like most novice builders. Basicly less than $100 if purchased at Bateau.

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