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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Australia
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    32
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    68

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    Thanks for the reply mate, I've been scared that the forum's quieting up

    Yeah, really after some good penetration and abrasion resistance nothing else from this stuff, so that's good to hear.

    To my knowledge you use about 3x the amount of resin (I could definitely be wrong here) and you use it at about 1/3th the weight of glass, so it's like wrapping the boat in 400 glass and using the equ. of 400's worth of resin, If I do use it, in the next week or two I'll order a small amount and make a heap of testers up, and see how it performs, wets out and lays up.

    I am currently shying away from a shiny finish on this boat, as this week I have been out 4 times, and it's going to get some serious wear over it's life, I also re-built a tornado two years ago, and after putting in some serious hours to get the boat looking like the best painted one at the 2014 worlds, 3rd race of the event someone in the wrong ruined the starboard hull's paintwork, and then the 8th race someone else in the wrong ruined the port hulls paint job. Was like 200 hours wasted, and then I sold the boat as I wasn't going to spend another 200 hours working on it.

    Thanks though mate, a bit more to research now

    Yeah double diagonal, which sadly both myself and my father haven't done before, that all sounds pretty dead on, glad to hear theres no special way about it, I'll just take my time working my way up from the stern.

    I may not go for a bright finish, but there is a chance if I do the whole boat in a very standard (not cheap looking finish though) that I'll wrap the side in Vinyl graphics, as a mate of mine makes them for a living for boats and race cars. Do you know if this would possible show the imperfections?

    Also, got out last night for a few hours, and have mostly shaped up one side, just the chine to go on the port side, and maybe 3/4 of the work to go on the port side.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
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    A vinyl wrap does work, though doesn't last all that long and always looks like a vinyl wrap. Any imperfections under the wrap easily show through too.

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
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    Yeah, Maybe I'll do the whole boat in a standard white finish, and wrap the aft 2.2m of the sides (as that area isn't double diagonal and should be a great finish).

    Finished up shaping one side last night as well, came up really nicely, and it was really nice to see the glue-joins in the chine be cut through, showed the consistency of the glueing technique there (can be seen in the second photo, in the whole time of shaping not one bubble or imperfection was seen).

    IMG_6470B.jpg

    IMG_6471.JPG

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
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    68

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    Finished shaping up the sides on the weekend, perfect to start planking!

    Working through a million little jobs too, filleting every join, filling every temporary screw hole with soaking epoxy, then filling them with a thickened epoxy, sanding and finishing areas that will so be inaccessible one the sides go on, fun fun!

    Sadly didn't get to start planking last weekend, spent a solid 12 hours in the garden, mostly finished paving the house, "dear back, I'm sorry" but too long putting that one off.

    I will try and take some step by step shots of planking the sides (instead of just a finished photo) as once you put the sheeting on, you cant see anything underneath anymore... all that hard work and nothing to look at?!

    FullSizeRender.jpg

    FullSizeRender2.jpg

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

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    Obviously this is a much larger boat than the previous photos show, as these latest images clearly bear out. So is this the walkway to the aft cabin, with enough extra room to have a herb garden too? Must be nice . . .

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
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    Hahahaha, yeah, really beamy boat gives the appearance of more room...

    Nah, I finished writing the last post, and realized I didn't have the photos I took with me, thought I'd mix it up (also thought everyone would like the gate/fence).

    Anywho, onto some boat stuff, took some photos at each I guess stage of putting a side panel on (at the same time as doing the first one, the opposite side was also measured and cut, along with the 2nd layer of both sides).

    Finished prep and flushing the stringers, chine and gunwale, epoxied the edge of the frames and filleted the stringers onto the frames.

    IMG_6600.jpg

    Marking up the side panels.

    IMG_6601.jpg

    Cutting the side panels.

    IMG_6602.jpg

    Dry-fit, temp screw fit, marking out glue surfaces, quick photo opp.

    IMG_6604.jpg

    Finished glueing - nicely cleaned up, inside filleted along all glue joins, hopefully during the week we can get out and knock off the other 3 sheets as they're ready to glue.

    IMG_6613.jpg

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
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    67
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    935

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    Looking good NC. Hard to be sure from the photos but the hull looks very fair.

    Just a few questions to satisfy my rodent-like curiosity.

    The rail that is at the bottom of the first photo ends in mid air - how will it connect up later? Is there some more framing to attach to the stern?

    How do you go with filleting while the hull is inverted - I'm wondering if gravity gives you a hard time and you use some special technique or do you get away with just using a stiff mix?

    Oh, and don't worry if the replies dry up from time to time - we are watching!
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
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    Hahahaha, Love that link PAR.

    Thanks Lab

    I spent a solid number of hours fairing the stringers, chines and keelson up before fitting everything, might have spent 50+ hours all up with metal bars flexing them around to get the perfect curves, transitions and to get perfectly flush glue joints, I'll take some up close pics if you like and some shots of how I do it, but the way I look at it, is every minute spent now doing the nice easy work is 10 minutes I don't have to spend building up and sanding down to get the hull fair which is the worst work in the whole job (in my opinion). Thanks for your comments on the fairness of the hull

    Great spot there with the rail at the end, it's actually cause because I have made my stern frame lower, even then, it's only that long to fix to the spreader. It will be cut down to be about 17 inches above the deadrise point, and the central 500mm will be 20 inches above the deadrise point (roughly, these aren't exact numbers, the design is at home and I am in the office so can't check). The gunwale rail will be shortened by about 550mm (distance between the last two frames is 800mm) and the two joined together by a straight line. The transom in the boat is 57mm thick (in leiu of the 38mm in the plans) and has a new "well" inside of it, which has sealed bouyancy chambers on either side, the well will house the bilge pumps etc. (The boat is also 19mm longer that originally designed) Also to note, the changes cost maybe $200 more, but that's pocket change for the time I saved and extra strength. Oh and the piece of mind when you smash that throttle down

    See the photo attached below for an example of a very similar design (on a narrower higher boat).

    The main reasons for this; simplicity of build, much stronger now, and provides a 550mm deep x 2400mm wide boarding platform, which is a necessity for my uses.

    bowdidge transom.jpg

    I almost took a photo of how we did it, now I guess I should have, but on Wednesday night I'll take a pic of how we do it (you'll cry at the simplicity). We haven't done all of the sole of the boat, for that I'll put the boat on it's side on a little jig and do it when it's side on

    Thanks for the re-assurance there, it feels weird, like am I doing something wrong? Is it good? Am I pretty boring in the posts (I never really know what to post, do I go full Doug Lord and post 500 posts of nothing per day, or do I post 10 pictues for the whole build...) With the amount of work getting done I felt like weekly kinda works

    Feel free to ask for more, I'd love to share anything as I love to read about things people build and how they build them, it is how you learn! Also have some more pics/can always take more as it's back to working Monday night, Wednesday night, Saturday and Sunday.

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Eustis, FL, USA
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    The photos of your work, surely makes up for any perceived lack of volume in your posts.

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
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    32
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    Back at it over the weekend, only got one day on her, but still glad how it all came together, moved onto something we have no experience at, and sadly haven't found that much information on, on-line, so here my run down.

    IMG_6718.jpg

    Both sides of the boat now have both rear panels and the 2nd layer on, all went fairly well, although it was a big change from the thicker bottom ply.

    IMG_6717.JPG

    What we did for the strips, was to stack all the sheets together, mark out a centreline, cut as accurately as possible, then stack those together, rinse repeat twice, and you turn 1200mm into 600 then 300 then 150mm wide strips of 2400mm long.

    IMG_6720.JPG

    Here she is getting thicker!

    IMG_6721.JPG

    Stacking said pieces into some benches, and then hitting the top and bottom edges with the power plane a couple times, probably knocking 1mm off each side, but giving us really nice perfectly flush and square edges to both sides of the sheets.

    IMG_6722.JPG

    Getting these pieces right meant the strips went on that much easier!

    IMG_6723.JPG

    Dry fitting the first piece, (just doing a quick clean-up of the existing glue join).

    IMG_6724.JPG

    When fitting these as testers, we did them in an order we deduced would work to try and knock off a whole side in one days session (hopefully) but just getting the process sorted and tested before has given us pretty huge confidence. Feeling like these have gone together really well and very quickly at the end of the day.

    Hopefully this week I'll get the time to mark out, cut and dry-fit the whole first layer, then mark our, cut and dry-fit the whole second layer, order the sheets by how they will go on, mark the inside glueing areas (so we know where to put epoxy on the inside layer as we always cover both sides going together) and remove them, then straight into glueing one huge batch.

    IMG_6725.JPG

    Lastly here I took a quick inside shot and rotated it around so it appears right way up, to show how everything is coming together on the inside. You can see the top of the chine, where the floor will sit, the shape and prep of the uprights, and the inside edges of the stringers (and of course the spreaders to be removed later on).

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
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    Managed to get out for a couple hours last night, made some nice progress. Gotta say she's looking pretty different!

    Almost finished dry-fitting the first layer on one side through the bow section.

    Just taking my time to select the right length strip each time to minimise waste, then aligning the new strip in place off the last, marking the top and bottom cuts, then marking a top pointing arrow and an aft pointing arrow, along with a marking at the centre point which is an average of the distance the piece misses the last piece at each end, then cutting the ends and plane-ing it out to create a uniform curve to roughly suit the last panels front edge, then test fitting the piece, and if the join isn’t perfect, taking it off and knocking off the high points with a plane, and then blending it all together until it fits, also on the last stroke adding a slight angle to suit the change in angle only a couple degrees max. and on the last test fit if she’s right bang a few tiny 4g screws in (leaving the heads well off) and grabbing the next piece, rinse and repeat.

    I have to admit, this was one of the things that really scared me in the build, but just taking time to get everything right, getting everything setup in a small area meant just walking through the same simple step by step process on repeat, and boom 2 hours later there is 14 stips sitting there looking back.

    IMG_6726.jpg

    IMG_6727.jpg

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
    Age
    67
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    935

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    After the previous post I was a little unsure how the strips were going to be fitted but suspected something similar to what you've shown today. All is now very clear. I guess it's the best (possibly only?) way to get that flare on the bow but I wonder if the angle of the strips also helps resist the disruptive forces of water against the hull at high speed.
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
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    Diagonal planking is an old and time honored method of getting compound shapes from planking. It can be layered or not, though most of the time at least a couple of layers are employed (I've worked on boats with 7 layers). Yes, the diagonal planking is scaled to loading and there are different approaches, for different needs. For example the Ashcroft method is a double diagonal type (my favorite molded type), but the layers all go in the same direction, just overlapping the seams. The reason is you can apply both layers at the same time. Because you don't have the cross grain stiffness of a opposing double diagonal, the planking thicknesses generally need to be slightly heavier to compensate.

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
    Posts
    68

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    • Nice and busy weekend in the garage!

      Saturday finished dry-fitting and planking the first side of the boat, Tedious work getting all the panels to fit perfect, not letting there be any gap between panels, a few extra hours I think will make for a great finished product!

      IMG_6794.jpg

      Onto Sunday, ordering all the panels, marking where to put epoxy on the under side, removing every panel, sanding them nicely then stacking them up in the correct order, ready for glueing!

      Also once off, all the uprights are prepped, filleted and epoxied with a few coats of epoxy (as these spots will be hard to access once the panels go on.

      IMG_6802.jpg

      Then with the remainder of the day glued on the first 12 strips or so, making sure epoxy was everywhere, on the sides, on the faces that need it, and the stringers/frame uprights. We then once on went over them with steel bars/large wheels, rolling out over and over until they were together perfectly, then cleaned up the joints and the stringers.

      IMG_6803.JPG

      Quick shot of the inside, all cleaned up.

      IMG_6801.JPG

      The last picture is how we clean up the inside area, lifting the boat up for easy internal access, slide a seat in, and wear your shittiest pants. None of this sits over your head, it is all still in-front of you.

      Also figured out that using a ladies leg wax applier is literally the greatest filleting tool we have ever used. Cheap, non-stick, perfect edges, really wishing we had have found that out earlier. Would have saved countless hours filleting already!







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