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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
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    32
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    68

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  3. #77
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
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    68

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    Knocked up some templates for the flooring.

    Prepped the under-floor area of the boat to be filleted up, glassed and painted.

    IMG_4484.jpg

    IMG_4486.jpg

    IMG_4487.jpg

  4. #78
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
    Posts
    68

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    Huge weekend spent in the garage, filleted and filled every single hole, join, temp screw hole, literally anything and everywhere.

    Everything is sealed now and ready for paint. Aaaaand then flooring!

    IMG_4572.jpg

    IMG_4573.jpg

    IMG_4575.jpg

  5. #79
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
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    68

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    Floors pretty much ready to go!

    IMG_4705.jpg

    IMG_4701.jpg

  6. #80
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
    Posts
    68

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    Painting painting painting. Does anybody else just LOVE painting with epoxy resin?

    Also installed wood cleats to every stringer/frame joint.

    IMG_4830.jpg

    IMG_4831.jpg

    IMG_4832.jpg

    IMG_4833.jpg

  7. #81
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
    Posts
    68

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    Busily working away on the boat, the floors finished off with the outside 2/3rds epoxied in place and the central section removable.

    IMG_20170917_181332.jpg

    Template cut out and in place for the rear of the anchor locker.

    IMG_20170917_181728.jpg

    Still unsure how to go for deck layouts... Struggling to decide between the full cabin, short cab (runabout) and center console. Going to mock up a short cab in 3mm mdf to see how I feel, but it's been tough choosing, the boat will be used for fishing, diving and general river use. Any thoughts or suggestions please give me any thoughts or pictures! It's a really really tough call.

    IMG_5019.jpg

    Rear wall is also in (has a little extra on top yet to be cut down to final decided height), looking about 4" below top of gun-wale height (gun-wale height is raised 4" above normal).

    IMG_5020.jpg

    Boarding platform and engine mounts up next! Sure is nice to be working with timber not paints again!!!

    IMG_5024.jpg

    Fun and comfortable work!

    FullSizeRender.jpg

  8. #82
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

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    Love the work and the fit of that glove!!
    Laurie - away from the sea

  9. #83
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Wimmera
    Posts
    174

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    Center console is by far the more practical set up for you for fishing and diving. Able to walk around the entire boat. However, no protection if fishing in the rain.
    Had one for years, and still have it, but also now own a cuddy cab. Wife comes fishing now, and rain is not a problem with the
    roof up and side curtains on.

    Hooroo.

  10. #84
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
    Age
    67
    Posts
    935

    Default

    John's said what I was thinking - so he must be right .

    I know someone who built a foldable shelter on his centre console - mounted on the console itself. Didn't help with wind and rain but was good for a sunshade when fishing on a hot day. There are probably variations on this theme that you could use to get the best of the centre console with a bit of protection as well.

    It's still looking very neat. Any predictions on a finish date?
    (I think the formula for this is to guess the number of months left, double it and add 2.)
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  11. #85
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
    Posts
    68

    Default

    Cheers guys, I think we all must be right then hey, I've been leaning towards centre console for a while now, for sheer usability for fishing and diving, but I very much liked the look of one of these.

    Two side consoles with a full walk through to the anchor locker, un-interrupted. The top of the console in my boat being quite a bit higher and also substantially beamier at that point leads me to think I'll be able to have a forward section which is around 600mm wide and 800-1000 deep (plenty of room to fish from? I think...) But will also give me two large storage areas on either side, accessed from the walk through. I would have a removable roof/window so it can be fully sealed up like a normal run-a-bout/cabin boat... Only think I know, for sure, is that I'm running out of time to decide.

    quintrex.jpg

    Thanks Bob, really hoping when finished I can be very proud of the finish, and also be willing to really throw the boat around, get out there a lot and never lose confidence in the boat itself.

    Well, that's a tough one on finish date though, maybe 6 weeks would be my "target" however I would be happy with that equation, 1.5 months X 2 + 2 = 5 months would be February which would leave me pretty happy (best time for boating in Perth is Feb, March, April, May and June!).

    Realistically aside from the console and coamings I'm hoping to by the end of the month to have her finished. Then I'll mock up in 3mm MDF the entire console/layout/coamings etc and then use that as templates to build it. Put it all back together, epoxy, paint, then FIT-OUT TIME, trailer time (really liking these aluminium trailers!), outboard motor time (which will probably be bought at this weekends Perth Boat Show). Fortunately for me, fit-out = bare bones, I hate loads of things breaking down, so simple battery setup, lights, maybe sound, nothing cushy, nothing fancy, just simple neat and work-able. I'll come back to it at a later date if there's anything "cushier" or larger to go after that point (extra seats, bait-wells, trimmings, pockets etc, maybe even a removable hard-top for a long way down the track). I probably will run with a tablet navigation instead of inbuilt, may even look for tablet connection to sounder units (if anyone has any experience with them please let me know!!!)

  12. #86
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
    Posts
    68

    Default

    HELP!

    I purchased an outboard on the weekend, it's a bit bigger than what I was originally planning on putting on...

    Would love some thoughts from people in regards to the strength of the transom. I have bought a 100hp Yamaha 4 stroke and currently have transom which is 2 layers of 19mm hoop ply, with a layer of glass on the outside, this is being bulked up with a 3rd layer now of 19mm (see third picture) along with another layer of 65 x 19mm tassie oak from chine-chine... I will put up more pictures once all of the dry timberwork is in place around the boarding platform.

    Am I being silly worrying that the 2 x 19mm transom with glass isn't strong enough?

    IMG_5134.jpg

    IMG_5136.jpg

    IMG_5135.jpg

  13. #87
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    3 layers of 19mm plywood will be fine for a 100 HP outboard. This is also near the max for the clamp, so don't go much thicker than this, unless you check the physical dimension for the outboard clamp. The transom is only as strong as the thinnest portion. A 2.25" (3 layers of 19mm) is a little thick for 100 HP, which commonly use about 2" (51mm), but (again) if the outboard clamp (bracket) will permit, use the thickest you can get away with, if for no other reason than you don't know what someone else might want to install, after you sell her.

  14. #88
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
    Posts
    68

    Default

    Cheers mate, great to hear, the outboard bracket should fit on what I have done, there's still a couple of 42x19's to go on the inside for the floor bearers seen here to drop down onto (they're just sitting up 19mm in the photos as we were putting an angle onto the tops of the 42x19's so they glue down perfectly).

    IMG_5153.JPG

    Last bits to add are the 42x42 strips down the side of the hull and then 10mm ply over the top.

    IMG_5154b.jpg

    I have marked the outboard bracket bolt location in red.

  15. #89
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    Will you be sealing in the area below the top of the mount and lower bolts?

  16. #90
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Age
    32
    Posts
    68

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    The plan was to have a sheet of ply over all this which will leave the top bolts exposed, but the bottom ones will have to be accessed by a hatch in the deck...

    I have a 6" inspection hatch which will go between the centre and the 1'st to starboard floor bearer.

    Probably will leave the underneath of this area open to the bilge/under floor area. Will coat everything a few times with epoxy.

    Is there something I should be looking at doing differently? Or any suggestions etc? (I've kind of matched what's in the plans for the outboard engine well, however just raised very slightly the beam on the transom and lowered slightly the forward end of it to make it more level to stand on).

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