Thread: looking for input on decked canoe/open kayak

Duckworks Boatbuilders Supply

Duckworks Boatbuilders Supply

The abve links for Jim Michalak's designs may be a starting point. Lars and Trilars were nor really designed for serious cruising but Jim is happy to consult and come up with modified plans.

He has also just taken part in the Texas 200 and has designed boats speecifically for these events.

Jim's mantra is simple, easy and cheap boats, so he would be worth communicating with.

Here's a link to his fortnightly newsletter:

Jim Michalak's Boat Designs/The Index

Originally Posted by Fair Dink

The abve links for Jim Michalak's designs may be a starting point. Lars and Trilars were nor really designed for serious cruising but Jim is happy to consult and come up with modified plans.

He has also just taken part in the Texas 200 and has designed boats speecifically for these events.

Jim's mantra is simple, easy and cheap boats, so he would be worth communicating with.

Here's a link to his fortnightly newsletter:

Jim Michalak's Boat Designs/The Index

Fair Dink,
Thanks for the reply.
I have been on Skype with Chuck from Duckworks and we have discussed several of Jim's designs. I thought about his Toto, PDracer and I like his Ladybug too.
The Larsboat is a cost effective plan.
Do you know if the Larsboat is an easy build?

It looks like Jim's outriggers are a tad "clunky" looking but perhaps I can see if he is willing to help with mod'ing the design for speed.

I am considering mod'ing the outriggers with standing rigging for mast strength. I want a sturdy rig that can handle strong blows on the coast if I feel like hiking out.

Thanks for your input and any other help you can offer me.
JJ

ps: I also posted something about spars in the boat design forum if you have any input there too.

Thanks JJ.

I am about half way through a Larsboat (undecked) and its not a difficult build, provided you are reasonably accurate with your marking and cutting of the panels- the hull is pretty straightforward.

In Australia most plywood comes in the metric size of 2400mmX1200mm, rather than 8'X4' (2440mmX1220mm) - this makes the bilge panels alittle difficult to squeeze into the cutting pattern, but like all stitch and glue projects smaller discrepencies respond to either thickened epoxy or a belt sander. I am using 4mm ply for the sides, bilges and decks, with 6mm bulkheads and bottom for a paddle only version.

For a Trilars, I. go for the blueprint 6mm (1/4") all round.

You would also need to ensure there is enough positive buoyancy and local builders have found it necessary to add a spray deck at the bow between main hull and sponsons to keep the cockpit dry while sailing.

I hope you find the 'ideal' boat for your requirements.

Dink,
Are you building the Trilars too?
Thanks again for your input. I have been to Duckworks and read several of the articles on building the the Larsboat; It appears to be a straight-forward build.

I have put the Larsboat at the top of my list and will most likely buy the plans.
I am one of those people who flounders for some time before making "big" decisions.
Good luck with your build.
Please let me know how things go.
JJ

I do have the plans- they were only another $10 and the postage here was no extra.

I am not planning to build a trilars- I sail an OK dinghy built in 1967 and am planning to build a Lillistone- designed 'First Mate' when resources allow. Bayside Wooden Boats Ross Lillistone

My Lars will be purely for recreational paddling, with maybe an overnight trip or two on the upper reches of the Noosa River.

I've kept it un decked so it's easier to cartop.

Having said that, I like the Trilars concept and wouldn't entirely dismiss the idea of modifying my boat later. It would also take a small downwind sail or a drop-in rowing rig- who knows?