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Thread: Paulownia/cedar fishing ski
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8th January 2017, 10:33 PM #1
Paulownia/cedar fishing ski
Just started stripping a new fishing craft. It's a 15' by 25" sit on top paddle craft. Intention is to include an open cockpit with raised floor and a large hatch for rods and fish.
Timber is mainly paulownia with some WRC for contrast.
I cut the strips on my bandsaw in short sessions spread over a few weeks. For my previous strip build I cut the strips using a hand held circular saw running on a guide but I compared kerf widths on a test piece and found that the bandsaw would actually give less waste.
P1030768 [800x600].JPG
Some of the strips bundled by board.
P1030787 [800x600].JPG
This is at the end of today, with the sheer strips on both sides.
P1060397 [800x600].JPGP1060395 [800x600].JPG
Still a long way to go but putting the sheer strips on is something of a milestone to me.Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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8th January 2017 10:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th January 2017, 09:27 PM #2
A little more progress, but it's slow as I'm relearning things I haven't done for 5 years.
There are 4 strips on 1 side now and 3 on the other.
4 strips on stbd side [640x480].JPG
Had a minor drama when 1 strip was not close enough to the form after glueing. Had to remove the strip, plane a significant bevel and reglue it
The stern is proving difficult due to the large amount of twist required in each strip. There must over 30degrees of twist in this section that is only 30cm long.
Stern strip twist [640x480].JPG
The heat gun trick hasn't worked as well as it used to do but there is a small steam cleaner on order and hopefully this will help.Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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20th January 2017, 10:30 PM #3
Well the steam cleaner doesn't make any noticeable difference either - maybe the timber has just dried out too much.
Have 5 strips on 1 side, 4 on the other.
Most of the strips are less than full length with a butt joint between the sections. Last night I scarfed some pieces together using PVA glue and and approx) 8:1 scarf ratio. Had always used epoxy for scarf joints in the past but the PVA seems fine and the joint held while planing and fitting the strip.
P1060446 [640x480].JPG P1060450 [640x480].JPG P1060451 [640x480].JPGCheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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21st January 2017, 05:04 AM #4
Some species just don't like to bend, but I've found soaking them in water for a day, prior to steam or heat gunning them into position, can greatly help convince the wayward pieces into place.
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29th January 2017, 05:23 PM #5
PAR, yes, that might be what's needed here. The steam cleaner has turned out to be really good for closing up nail holes from where I've nailed strips to the forms.
Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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3rd February 2017, 10:49 PM #6
Some noticable progress since the previous post. Stripping is easier and going a bit quicker now that the strips are away from the ends. Ends are being roughly tapered to give a loose fit down the centre. This will be cut and have finishing strips inserted later.
P1060550 [800x600].JPGP1060567 [800x600].JPGCheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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13th February 2017, 10:09 PM #7
Stripped up to near the keel then made 2 parallel cuts down the length to make a gap for 2 keel strips.
P1060619 [800x600].JPG
Shaped and glued the first keel strip in then cut down it's length on the centre line to make room for the other.
P1060632 [800x600].JPG
Final strip is gradually being planed down to fit.
P1060642 [800x600].JPGCheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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17th February 2017, 05:59 PM #8Senior Member
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Now the hard work begins...I envy the small surface area!
Laurie - away from the sea
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21st February 2017, 07:13 PM #9
I think the hard bit will be the cockpit but all the fiddly parts definitely slow down the visible progress.
Managed to close the hull last week.
P1060664 [800x600].JPG P1060665 [800x600].JPG
Added the first lamination for the bow stem and a block at the stern last night.
P1060809 [640x480].JPG P1060807 [640x480].JPG
It still needs several more layers at the bow and some strips across the block onto the keel.Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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11th March 2017, 06:21 PM #10
Finished shaping everything, filled a couple of small gaps and sanded down to a P180 finish. Feels smooth and looks OK.
P1060864 [640x480].JPG
Glass has been draped over the hull.
P1060876 [640x480].JPG P1060879 [640x480].JPG
Conforms nicely at the bow but will need to be cut at the stern as the stern stem is vertical.
P1060880 [640x480].JPG
P1060883 [640x480].JPG
Now just waiting for a suitable time to wet out.Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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30th March 2017, 01:38 PM #11Senior Member
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Looks good. Got a few questions for you.
How thick are the strips?
What is the mould spacing?
What weight of glass are you using?
Also, I notice you have more or less elliptical moulds. Are you planning on having a heavily cambered deck with a large edge radius?You know you're making progress when there's sawdust in your coffee.
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30th March 2017, 08:06 PM #12
Forgot how long it was since the last post.
The wet out went well considering the previous one I did was about 2011. It took a while to get the squeegee technique back but end up looking good. Even the bow and stern played nicely .
P1060885 [640x480].JPG P1060893 [640x480].JPG P1060892 [640x480].JPG
It took a few fill coats and left these a bit too thick in some areas but the scraper and wet sanding will take care of that.
A week ago I slung the hull from the rafters to turn it over. Since then have cleaned up the sheer edges and the ends to the point where I can almost start stripping again.
P1060903 [640x480].JPG P1060910 [640x480].JPG P1060911 [640x480].JPG
Sumbloak, the strips were cut at just over 5mm on a bandsaw and I'm really not sure how thick they will be after sanding but I'm trying to take as little off as possible. Form spacing is about 30cm (1 foot) and the glass is 85gsm (equivalent to about 2.5 oz per sq yard). I used similar thickness strips, the same glass and the same resin on my previous built and it has held up OK over 5 years so I have confidence that it will wok for this one too.
Foredeck is somewhat peaked for water runoff but the rest is relatively flat so I can cut out a suitable cockpit and rear well, although the edge radius is large as you observed. This is a sit on top type ski, not a kayak, and I think this shape will suit it better.Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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30th April 2017, 10:34 PM #13
Well there are other things that slow down progress and a few of them have been in action over the last month.
It took a couple of weeks to find enough time to clean up the hull sheer strips and shape the internal bow and stern blocks. The deck sheer strips are cedar and narrower than the others. There are now a few deck strips on each side and it won't be long until there is a switch to cedar for most of the stripping.
P1060964 [640x480].JPG P1060956 [640x480].JPGCheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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6th May 2017, 05:56 PM #14
Looking good Bob.
Alan J
Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer
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7th May 2017, 11:33 PM #15
Thanks AJ.
Managed to put in a cedar accent strip and a couple more paulownia strips this weekend. Just need one on the starboard side to even it up then will be up to putting on the strips that are on the edges of the cockpit. At that stage will have to decide whether to change to cedar or do 1 more paulownia each side. Cedar will make the cockpit framed with a darker accent but I'm worried about getting the sides even and how it will look if the cockpit width needs to be tapered.
The pieces of blue tape on the forms indicate the limit of the cockpit area.
P1070005 [640x480].JPGCheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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