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Thread: Putt putt rebuild
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15th January 2013, 09:36 AM #1
Putt putt rebuild
I promised myself I wouldn't do another restoration. In fact I have a set of plans to build David Payne's Snapper Boat. However a nice old Simplex popped up on Ebay the other week, and the boat came with it.
She's just over 15' long and 6'10" wide with a lot of sheer - a very pretty boat. The deck is shot but the hull is in quite good condition with no broken ribs and only 2 badly split planks.
The plan is to coat the whole outer with epoxy and glass (apologies to the purists) and build a new planked deck. Hopefully the Simplex won't need much work. It was reconditioned 14 years ago and hasn't been started since.
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15th January 2013 09:36 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th January 2013, 09:45 AM #2
Engine and assorted fittings out and a quick clean out.
phone photos 10.1.2013 136.jpg
Then lifted off the trailer with slings,
phone photos 10.1.2013 134.jpg
Turned over and the fun begins. First job is to rake all the seams, removing paint and a lot of rubber. Looks like she had the Sikaflex treatment some years ago.
phone photos 10.1.2013 137.jpgphone photos 10.1.2013 138.jpg
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15th January 2013, 12:47 PM #3
If you coat the exterior of this boat with epoxy, it take forever to "suck up" when it's launched, so unless this old gal is to live on a mooring or berth, you'd be best advised not to epoxy the exterior. If the boat is to live on a trailer, it'll constantly leak, because she can't take up as quickly as she needs to.
Epoxy has its place and I'm a big fan, but traditional structures, don't need, nor is it advisable to use much epoxy. Particularly on joints and areas, where moisture gain is the mechanical apparatus that permits the boat to swell up tight.
If you insist on epoxy, the best advice would be to "wedge" the seams, which in your neck of the woods is often refer to as spines. This permits you to epoxy coat the outside and seal the seams, making a monocoque form of structure. This is more expensive and time consuming than a traditional recaulk and paint, but some prefer it and it's especially effective on trailer borne boats.
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15th January 2013, 03:26 PM #4
As is typical of these old clinkers, there are some fairly serious planking issues. Splits on both sides that you can put your fingers through, a gap at the bow my arm just passes through, sizeable gaps between garboard and keel etc.
So she would need considerable replanking before becoming a caulk and paint project.
So the plan is to rake and fillet all seams, glass each plank and the keel and paint the inside. It is a big job
I know many don't agree with this process, but the last 3 projects all worked a treat.
And yes, it will live on a trailer
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10th February 2013, 10:12 PM #5
Well, the paint is all gone and all seams raked.
Some bad timber replaced in the keel.
phone photos 10.2.13 028.jpg
All planks relieved at the stem and transom, and stuck back down again with epoxy
phone photos 10.2.13 029.jpgphone photos 10.2.13 030.jpg
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10th February 2013, 11:39 PM #6
Here are a couple of better shots of the Simplex. A mate with considerable vintage engine experience has offered to help give it a birthday. So we'll do that before attempting to start it.
phone photos 10.2.13 034.jpgphone photos 10.2.13 035.jpg
The cast sphere on top, embossed "octopus", I guess is some sort of water muffler. Any thoughts?
Based on holes in the hull, the exhaust originally exited mid ships. At some stage (fairly recently looking at the hose and fittings) this was changed to exit aft. It's generally quieter this way but any other pros/cons?
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25th February 2013, 07:23 PM #7Intermediate Member
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Hi Kingfisher. I am presently building this type of boat from scratch. I am being in no way critical,however I was intrigued by the planking. It appeared to me that whoever did the planking just started out, then at the end decided that he had to catch up. There seems to be no thought in regards to the spacings of the planks. I took a lot of care in working out the planks in order to get a balanced looking boat. However looking at your boat to the casual eye nobody would know the difference between good or bad planking. Just a thought.Cheers Dan.
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26th February 2013, 02:52 PM #8
Hi Dan. I take it you mean the unequal plank widths where they meet the transom.
Could it be that the planks have been left full width below the waterline to minimise the number of plank ends/seams that get wet? I'm guessing that these would be the areas most prone to leaking?
The remaining planks then end at a reasonably consistent width with the uppermost plank at full width for visual reasons.
I've no idea really, just guessing.
Mark
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26th February 2013, 03:12 PM #9
Filletting seams and general patching well underway
phone photos 26.2.13 029.jpgphone photos 26.2.13 021.jpg
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26th February 2013, 05:33 PM #10Member
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Great progress and nice job Kingfisher - I am amazed when I see guys cracking on so fast and competently with a project whilst I seem to be making only glacially slow progress with mine !
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26th February 2013, 10:08 PM #11
Not many distractions here in the mallee Bagman.
And no SWMBO to misdirect the focus
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26th February 2013, 10:18 PM #12
Rather daunting undertaking you've committed to
and an impressive amount of workregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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5th March 2013, 08:01 PM #13New Member
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Pottsville
U have a real score there. It's a grand putt putt. I have been on the hunt for one my self. I live in northern NSW and have a 14foot Roy Bliss Oceaneer that I restored & regularly use both outside & in the Tweed River. I have owned it for twelve years now & is a real talking point at the boat ramps. Cheers
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10th March 2013, 08:49 AM #14
All patching and filletting complete. Glassing begun with double bias cloth on the keel/garboard. The other planks will be done with a much lighter tape.
phone photos 10.3.13 046.jpgphone photos 10.3.13 047.jpg
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14th March 2013, 09:20 PM #15
looking good, I agree with your decision, to glass the hull,. Once Glassed the hull will no longer need to be in the water all the time to remain water tight. I would consider at least epoxy saturating the inside of the hull, before painting.
with the motor re built and re birthed she will be a lovely boat.
Jeff
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