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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NSW, Australia
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    474

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    I remember reading about Curlew years ago when they actually did the sheathing. Seemed like it would be a solid job.
    You know you're making progress when there's sawdust in your coffee.

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  3. #62
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    65

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    new cabin sole 2.jpgnew cabin sole, fore peak still to do , just need a break from all the filing, now focus time on refitting the rudder.

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    474

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    Nice work. I admire your perseverance.
    You know you're making progress when there's sawdust in your coffee.

  5. #64
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    65

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    [QUOTE focus time on refitting the rudder.[/QUOTE]

    Rudder tube glued and glassed in, bearings in and rudder swings oh so sweetly.

    Engine is now back in and new prop shaft made, lots to do from here but gee it's cramped down in the bilge.

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    65

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    carmen engine.jpgcarmen prop.jpg

    New cutlass bearing, volvo dripless seal, prop shaft, floor, thrust bearing and cage, universal joints , teleflex cable and the engine completely overhauled. Touch up the paintwork and thewn on with the cockpit floor. Progress.

  7. #66
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    191

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    wow, just wow, i along with the others on this thread greatly admire your perseverance. Looks like it will be a little while before you get her feet wet, but I bet you've been thinking about it for a while now. Best of luck finishing it off.

  8. #67
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    65

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    DSC03832.jpgDSC03839.JPG
    spent weeks rebuilding the rudder, had to widen it to fit the new profile of the hull. Used a 265gsm twill weave over the leading edge and a 200 gsm plain weave over the trailing edge, about 50mm of hairy bog on the trailing edge and 275 gsm double bi over the faces, lots of fairing compound and lots of long boarding. Came out well, swings beautifully. Next run the engine and the put down the cockpit floor, maybe the end of the year a possible launch date?

  9. #68
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

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    This is one of the threads I look forward to see new posts on. Keep up the fine efforts.

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    65

    Default Yanmar 2GM parts

    The marine engineer came last friday to run the engine and check the gearbox and morse control. Happy to say everything went according to plan, well almost. The oil return line that runs from the back of the head down to the sump, leaks, had to loosen the starter to get it out, some pin holes where it runs through a fitting on the back of the block.
    The engine is a Yanmar 2GM, does any one know where I can source parts in Brisbane?

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    65

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    does any one know where I can source parts in Brisbane?

    Doesn't matter now, making a new line, cheaper too.

  12. #71
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    65

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    engine 2015.jpg New Yanmar external oil line fitted, they are made from copper now, big improvement, expensive tho'. Engine is now complete, CAV filter and all cockpit drains plus internal deck drain all fitted, used Trudesign fittings. Next task is to glass the cockpit floor which was done today, used 275 gsm double bi and peel ply. First time using peel ply, let's see how that goes.

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Wollongong
    Posts
    116

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    Great Work Carmen! I am happy with the Truedesign fittings used on our recent Tugboat build.
    I also used a Vetus anti splash fixture which couples under the diesel deck filler.
    Every boat I've owned has had me covered in diesel sometime or another when filling up with fuel-not this one!

    Good luck.

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    65

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    water strainer fitted, cockpit floor completed and work on port side cabinetry started, IMG_0063.jpg fitting around the ribs is very time consuming, worth the effort not to lose items that rattle down underneath the water tanks, timber trims to be made and fitted and cabinet work back of settee berths to go.

  15. #74
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

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    The usual option to handling fitting soles and furniture over ribs is to install a full or partial ceiling. For example, where your cockpit sole lands, leaving the seat box riser further up and some exposed ribs, a little partial length of ceiling piece would be installed over the ribs so both the sole and seat box riser can fall on a flat area. More importantly, the ceiling permits ventilation around the back of installed items (like to sole, seat box riser, etc.). The ceiling is often done in thin softwood strips (I like cedar), closely spaced horizontally arranged, though light (thin) plywood works too and you'll cover a lot of area faster too. The nice thing about plywood is you don't need many fasteners and I've seen a few that used Velcro to hold the panels in place in modest curved areas. I look forward to seeing pictures of this build. You're doing such a nice job, I can't wait to see her finished up and her bottom wet again.

  16. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    65

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    thanks for the tip, I actually did this in the companionway, my vanity left the ribs exposed in the setee area, just looks so boaty but my oath a lot of work. I have placed a ceiling in every locker out of softwood strips 45mm wide 6mm thick and about 30mm apart, sacrifical as they are easily replaced as necessary but keeps things off the hull. How the heck does one get the photo to turn around the right way?

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