Thread: Teak Deck finish

Check to see what oil is used in the Organoil. Most oils will darken the wood fairly quickly, tung isn't as bad, which is why it's preferred. If it has linseed oil in it the wood will take on a grayish black patina in a few years. Danish oil is very easy to make and costs a lot less too. Equal parts mineral spirits and tung oil. For the last coat (it takes several to saturate the wood), mix in a few ounces per gallon of Japan drier, other wise you'll have to wait a week or two for it to fully dry. Yes, you can apply oil over oil, even if the species are different. This said, a lot of these pre-made "mixes" are more then just spirits and oil, so read the label and check compatibility on an out of the way location first.

would you not be better using a specific marine decking oil???

I know that cost would be a bit higher, however you would have a product that is specifically designed for the Marine environment and with ultraviolet inhibitors added.

Just a thought,

Jeff
vk4

Dutch oil is Dutch oil, they're all nearly the same. Tung oil is preferred because it doesn't blacken like linseed. There is little to no UV inhibtors in most formulations, relying on pine tar, pitch and good coating maintenance to protect the wood. Most include a drying agent, some include viscosity control agents, while others attempt to improve surface penetration with additional vehicle solvents. If you buy a "Marine Teak Oil" it will have approximately 50/50 spirits and oil, plus the few odds and ends, they might feel necessary as a selling point of coating stabilizer/curing agent. Again, you can mix this yourself for a fraction of the cost or you can by a 12 ounce bottle of "marine grade" for the same cost of a gallon of home brew.

Simply put, these oil finishes have been around for centuries. Most formulations have been handed down as a shop secret, but I'm willing to offer the formula freely. My formula was also a secret back in the 1960's when I learned of it, but then I found other "secret" formulas, which were within a few percentage points of being the same thing.

Lastly, oil finishes actually suck at protecting wood. Unless you're willing to recoat the wood every few months (which is easy) the fibers of the wood on the surface will see UV burns in fairly short order. On some boats, it's the only way to go, as any other finish just wouldn't look right, but given a choice, oil is the least protective of all the clear wood finishes available today.