Page 28 of 37 FirstFirst ... 182324252627282930313233 ... LastLast
Results 406 to 420 of 551

Thread: Tom Cat

  1. #406
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    The gaff jaws saw a little evolution near the end of the golden age of sail. Most racers went to a saddle, instead of jaws. The logic was, it was lighter, even though made of metal, they offered less windage, which is always a good thing, they where much stronger and they didn't tend to break, like wooden ones did. The saddle looked like a gooseneck, except the goose neck part was attached to a sheet metal disk, bent to form about 1/2 around the mast. Had the gaff seen the same evolution the Bermudian rig did in the latter half of the 20th century, the jaws and saddle would have been changed to a "car" much like fully battened sails use now. A couple of rollers, holding a 3 axis gooseneck for the gaff, riding in a track. Of course, the gaff would be carbon too.

    I hope your jaws stay put, I've broken quite a few over the years, so I always spec' through fastened jaws. Rivets are commonly used on small craft, but I like bolts.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #407
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 184 Gaff Jaws Cont 3…

    Further to my last - I not only epoxied the Jaws on but also added 2 rivets as well as the screws. You know how it is – better safe then sorry! I still need to add the single Lifting Eye Bolt and holes either side in the base of the Jaws to secure the throat of the sail as per the drawing and then finish up with varnish and a bit of white paint at both ends.

    P1010690-1.jpg P1010691-1.jpg P1010693-1.jpg

    P1010692-1.jpg P1010694-1.jpg
    Laurie - away from the sea

  4. #408
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pennsylvania, US
    Posts
    73

    Default

    This looks very nice Laurie and great pictures! Thanks!

  5. #409
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 185 Boom Jaws

    I have moved on to the Boom Jaws with the intention to complete the finishing up of the Gaff and Boom Jaws together – just need to complete the attachment of the Jaws process.

    Here we see the Boom Jaws – much easier than the Gaff. No inlay, just glue, a couple of screws and a single bolt. The two pairs of holes indicated are for the Boom Hold Down and I took the option of adding a Parrel Line as indicated by Garden (but without trucks at this particular time, we'll see later) in an article he had written concerning this area.

    Please note that only the second last picture shows the Spar the right way up!

    P1010695-1.jpg P1010697-1.JPG P1010698-1.JPG
    P1010699-1.JPG P1010700-1.JPG
    Laurie - away from the sea

  6. #410
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 186 Boom Jaws Cont…

    All done…glued up, screwed, bolted and shaped. Just need to go back and finish the Gaff Jaws with a bit more shaping and holes for its Parrel Line.

    Next will be to ascertain the lengths of each before the finishing work can commence. I have measured up the Sail dimensions again and now require to bite the bullet with length, add the required timber fittings and holes for the various hold downs and begin the finishing process.

    P1010702-1.jpg P1010704-1.jpg P1010710-1.jpg P1010707-1.jpg
    Laurie - away from the sea

  7. #411
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 187 Mast Hoops Cont...

    Well, finally had an opportunity to get back and do something so have attacked the Hoop requirement after much procrastination over the best way forward in this space. Please refer back to post #376 where I have provided pics of the starting point. I have cut one of these to provide 5 Hoops 15mm wide x 15mm thick. Refer pics below.

    P1010713-1.JPG P1010717-1.JPG P1010716-1.JPG

    P1010720-1.JPG P1010719-1.JPG

    From here I will radius them on the inside to provide as smooth a movement on the Mast as possible without too much angst on the Mast Varnish (I hope! ). They're a bit weighty but hope they will be OK. Additionally I intend to attach bronze Mast Hoop Toggles from Classic Boat Supplies which are anticipated to make the sail attachment easy during rigging in the car park!
    Laurie - away from the sea

  8. #412
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pennsylvania, US
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Hello Laurie,

    Sad news I just learned. Par has passed away. Here's a link...

    https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/r...iccelli.60437/

  9. #413
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pennsylvania, US
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Greetings Laurie!

    Back in post 324 and 327 you show your traveler (horse). I'm getting ready to order mine.

    Can you advise the distance you used between the stops and the distance between the mounting holes please? i'm going with 1/2" also...

    While I'm thinking of it, how did you surface the deck supports to the camber Garden specifies?

    Best,

    Greg

    P.S. I was contacted by another Tomcat builder from NZ who has "finished" his hull...

  10. #414
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default

    Hi Greg
    Great to hear from you!

    Distance between the Stops is 1150mm – aargh! Sorry – 45 ¼” to outside of Stops (book shows 46”)
    Distance between Centrelines of Mounting Holes is 50” – this measurement was calculated by measuring from the centre of the Quarter Knees that I had fabricated. The Quarter Knees are not included in the construction drawing in the book I have (Page 37) where it shows the much shorter Traveller Horse. However, Page 23 shows the alternative. Also my Traveller sits 3” above the Deck (outside measurement).

    As far as the camber of the Deck is concerned, I manufactured a template of the curve required out of plywood after the manufacture of the curved Transom was completed. Refer Page 43, Drawing Number 8 – “Mould for Curved Transom Version” – top LH corner. This was provided to the mob that made the Horse to ensure there was duplication of the Deck curve in the finished product and that the verticals were at right angles to the Deck. They did a great job! Hence the large spend!!

    Can you provide a contact number or address for the guy from NZ?
    Cheers
    Laurie
    Laurie - away from the sea

  11. #415
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pennsylvania, US
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Thanks yet again Laurie!! Just the detailed info needed.

    sending a message on Kiwi contact..

  12. #416
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default

    Many thanks Greg and...Paul the Kiwi, if you're out there, I would very much like to correspond with you on your build.
    Laurie - away from the sea

  13. #417
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 188 Mast Hoops Cont 1…

    Well, I have finally got around to it – mind you, if it hadn’t of been for the rainy weather lately I’d be still in the garden!! Anyway, it has given me a chance to do some more on the Hoops.

    I have radiused the inside of the Hoops to provide as large a semi-circular wearing area as possible considering the material used and have attached the bronze Hoop Toggles. From here I need to attach the other half of the Toggle to the Sail. I will also experiment with a leather lining to the inside of the Hoop to see if it will make a difference so that is to come (I'm an old leather worker!)

    P1010721-1.jpg P1010724-1.JPG P1010726-1.JPG
    P1010727-1.JPG P1010728-1.JPG

    I have also purchased some smaller Blocks for the Throat Halyards as an experiment to see how I can get everything to work up there. It would appear that I may have screwed up the placement of the supporting woodwork on the Mast for the original wooden Blocks procured in that there may be insufficient space for them. Refer the pic below and see that I’m saving about 70mm with the smaller Tufnol Blocks.

    P1010733-1.JPG
    Laurie - away from the sea

  14. #418
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 189 Rigging

    Time to get serious with ensuring the Spars and the Sail come together as a matched set. Refer the previous note concerning Block sizes. Some more muckin’ around, this time in the garage with all the bits. It would appear the larger Blocks may still work but on reflection the size and weight may be the deciding factors. Now that I’m a bit more comfortable with the space provided I can move forward.

    P1010736-1.jpg P1010734-1.jpg P1010735-1.jpg P1010738-1.jpg

    P1010737-1.jpg P1010739-1.jpg
    Laurie - away from the sea

  15. #419
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default 190 Gaff Jaws Cont 4...

    It's been a couple of months and not much has happened - busy elsewhere! so much for retirement!

    However, I have made a start on the leathering of the Gaff Jaws - it's an advance but that's about it.

    P1010742.JPG P1010740.JPG P1010741.JPG

    Also have commenced the fabrication of the Bee Blocks for both spars. There are a number of different ways to attach the Boom Blocks and Gaff Bridle to the spars and Garden's book shows Bee Blocks so have finally decided after much research that this is the way to go. Also am considering using braided cordage in lieu of wire for the Gaff Bridle.

    P1010745.JPG P1010743.JPG P1010746.JPG

    Hopefully things can get back to normal in the New Year and more time can be spent in the shed!
    Laurie - away from the sea

  16. #420
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pennsylvania, US
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Hello Laurie!

    That's a real nice looking piece of hide you have going there; can't wait to see it fitted. I also like the slim bee blocks you've made. I made a bunch too but they are about half the size I want to have a solid landing on the spars. There will be a lot of pressure on them from both the gaff bridle and the sheet blocks! Just one more part(s) I've had to remake on this little cat.

    I have planned on using 3 or 4 mm dyneema for the headstay and the gaff bridle. We shall see... II'm sure braided cord would work well!

    Happy New Year!!

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •