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Thread: Tom Cat

  1. #256
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    Jan 2013
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    Default

    Hi Laurie,

    The cuddy, now roofed (ceilinged?) adds a ton of character, very cool! FWIW, I shaped my transom in the same way but dont consider it an error; though I've been thinking for a long time just how to finish off the transom top...

    Since we have fewer frames/floors than traditional, did you make your floor boards thicker than the 1/2" plan to compensate?

    Awesome build and document,

    Greg

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  3. #257
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Toowoomba
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    72
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    373

    Default 121 Coachroof Cont 2…

    Hi Greg…in answer to your questions.
    Yes, the Floorboards are thicker – 15mm in fact. What’s that, 5/8” for Yanks? Refer Post #72 Grate for further info.
    The Deadwood is fixed with 4 SB bolts plus screws. Refer Post #91 Deadwood.

    Fairing the Coachroof has been a dead set chore…even more difficult than the Hull. It’s been glassed with some left over 435gsm Double Bias cloth and epoxy, then 2 coats of epoxy to fill the weave, sand, then first coat of fairing filler, sand, a black fairing coat, sand, a normal fairing coat, sand and then two more coats of epoxy. If that doesn’t keep the water out nothing will.


    P1010074-1.JPG P1010075-1.JPG P1010081-1.JPG P1010084-1.JPG P1010086-1.JPG P1010088-1.JPG P1010094-1.JPGP1010098-1.JPG
    At this stage I was going to apply a primer coat but will take another tack. I need to seal the top edge of the Coaming with epoxy as I have, after much reflection, decided not to apply a NG Rosewood trim piece there. To do that I would need to reduce the vertical width of the Coaming by the thickness of this trim so that the piece of half round trim that is applied the full length of the Coaming and Coachroof would cover the join and retain a continuous look. I drew pictures etc as I struggled with the way forward and now that my mind is made up I can get on with it. I will just paint the top edge of the Coaming.
    In the meantime it’s back to the saw bench, planer and router to manufacture the half round trim for this area (19mm wide), the gunwale (25mm) and another rub strake (19mm) on the side of the Hull.

  4. #258
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    Default 122 Coachroof Trim

    Things are going but ever so slowly. Work has taken me away again – now it’s Xmas and family stuff but got a few hours in. I have made all the trim pieces as mentioned in my previous mail so they’re there awaiting steaming and fixing. Here some pics of making the trim pieces for the aft end of the Coachroof.
    P1010018-1.JPG Steaming P1010020-1.JPG Forming P1010015-1.JPG Gluing P1010029-1.JPG P1010023-1.JPG P1010021-1.JPG P1010022-1.JPG As can be appreciated I didn’t have the necessary wood of dimensions required for the right angle pieces so I steamed some laminates with an iron, clamped them in place until dry and subsequently epoxied the pieces together. They look OK and will do the job nicely I reckon.
    The pieces have all been edge rounded, fitted and I’m now at the stage of fixing them in place. I think I will use Sika 291 for this purpose. It’s easily obtainable at my local Bunnings store and should do the job nicely. I will also use it to attach all the other trim pieces – gunwhales etc.

  5. #259
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    Best Holidays to you and yours Laurie!!! Love the detail workmanship! Seems you have a namesake admirer aboard!

  6. #260
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    Default 123 Mast Collar

    Belated Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to you and yours Greg and the same to all Forumites.

    I have left attaching the Coach Roof Trim for another day as I cannot make up my mind about the methodology – screw and epoxy, straight epoxy, adhesive sealant or screw and sealant? Who knows what at the moment.

    Anyhow I have made the Mast Collar. This took a bit of fiddling due to the angle of the Deck and required angle of the Mast to the vertical. I did a drawing (not a very good one) but it helped in understanding how the thing should be manufactured. I think I got it OK with my second go at it. The idea for me (presently) is to have a Mast Boot with an elasticised bottom hem to the skirt so that I can easily fit it should I end up without a hinged Mast - hence the step in the outside diameter (one of my mascots is overseeing the work!)
    P1010031-1.JPG P1010038-1.JPG P1010040-1.JPG P1010041-1.JPG P1010033-1.jpg
    A hinged Mast would be the absolute preferred option but I’m attempting to chase down a Mast Hinge that will fill the bill off the shelf but am struggling so may need to approach a local metal shop with a bunch of drawings. There’s always something isn’t there? The one I really like is manufactured by a mob in the States but it is for an aluminium mast so is unsuitable. Anyway, these things are sent to challenge us, no? Almost forgot - I don't have a lathe so the Collar has been produced by hand and besides its an elliptical shape so it wouldn't help much anyway.

  7. #261
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    Feb 2008
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    Eustis, FL, USA
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    Default

    Mast collars get torn up in time, so screw it down over a good bedding (polyurethane) and make another one, so you can replace it when necessary.

  8. #262
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    Double take on the deckhand...! I'm sure the cats ignored the newcomer...

    As you know, I'm quite keen on your solution to mast hinging. My current plan is to adapt the recent, steel plate, Wooden Boot article one; with added shrouds. Id rather not but i don't have any clue on having one made up...

    Nice work on the collar, as always Laurie.

    Best,

    Greg

  9. #263
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    Default 124 Where Next?

    So what’s been happening?.....work that’s what and I’m still not back at the shed as I’d like. BTW...many thanks PAR for the heads up on the additional Mast Collar - I will make that happen before the build is complete.

    Struggling to think where I’m at and what I can share. I know I’ve done stuff but is it interesting for you guys? Let’s see……….

    I mentioned previously that I have fabricated all the Coachroof and Gunwhale trims and just recently took to the Coachroof trim with steaming and fitting them - then onto the sandpaper to provide “that look” we all hanker after. Just hope it comes out as I’d expect. They aren’t attached yet.

    I haven’t steamed the Gunwhale trim as I’ve been working on the fit of the Toe Rails and as ever, as an amateur, cannot decide if they should fit right on the edge of the deck or somewhat inboard. The plans show no gap but when I peruse all the available pictures other Tom Cat builders appear to have left them off or to have moved them inboard a bit including the designer. I’m thinking they have taken a route mandated by the fact that there is nothing to screw them into as there is a gap between the Inwhale and the Hull created by the Frames. I’m guessing they have moved them inboard and used the Inwhale as the fixing point. I fabricated a couple of feet of the Toe Rail with some no-good stock that commenced at the Stem and have been mucking around with that. All that did was confuse me further! The Toe Rails are much longer than in the pics - they are to be fabricated from 32mm high stock but they taper to half that height way back at the commencement of the Coachroof.
    P1010069.jpg P1010070-1.JPG P1010068-1.JPG P1010067-1.JPG
    The upshot is I have made some filler pieces to provide some solid backing midway between the frames so that I have something to screw into. I now have these and the frame heads to use as fixing points. Not installed yet.

    The only other thing I’ve done is give the Coaming a couple more coats of epoxy….oh!! and most importantly spent a bunch of money on ash blocks and bronze hardware - more to come on that at a later date.

  10. #264
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    Hi Laurie! I have questions for you as I plan the Tom Cat Turn. What height did you have the bottom of the keel when turned and how did you manage getting in and out once set? Did you like the upright height you chose?

    So glad to have this outstanding documentation! I owe you something!

    Best to you,

    Greg

  11. #265
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    Default 125 Keel Height

    Hi Greg...
    The height of the Keel is 640mm (25") off the floor. This has turned out quite well for me - just use a small step ladder to get in and out. I also attached wheels to the Strongback during the turnover to give some freedom of movement fo the boat in the shed. This turned out to be great - just need to ensure she's re-levelled each time you want to do something in the interior.
    P1010074-1.JPG P1010073-1.JPG P1010075-1.JPG P1010076-1.JPG
    Laurie - away from the sea

  12. #266
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    Default 124 Gunwhale Rubbing Strips

    Work on the boat has been almost non-existent – I’m away every other week subsequently when home other duties call.
    What I have been doing is dry fitting the trim. Both the Coachroof and Gunwhale trims are now dry fitted and have decided I will glue the Coachroof trim on but will use Sika 291 for the Gunwhale. Still work to do though – I want to apply at least one coat of epoxy to the Gunwhales prior to installation and if I can get two coats on wet on wet that would be even better. This will seal the timber ready for the Sika and subsequent varnish. Maybe tomorrow!

    P1010077-1.jpg P1010078-1.jpg P1010083-1.jpg P1010085-1.jpg
    Laurie - away from the sea

  13. #267
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    Default Do little cats take long to build?

    Getting ready to order wood for floor boards and seats; $$$!

    I'm going with 8 floors and frames as you did and also am increasing floor thickness...

    ? = what thickness did you make your floorboards?
    ? = what thickness did you make your seats?
    ? = Are you floor board panels light enough to pull out for bailing?

    I am thinking 18mm (3/4") for both... too thick?

    Thanks Laurie. Most of what I do is verfied on this blog; you're my mentor!

    Hoping this finds you well!

    Best, Greg in Philly

  14. #268
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    Default 126 Gunwhale Rubbing Strips Cont…….

    Greg…both Floor boards and Seat boards are 15mm thick and after installation hold up really well with the supports I have in place. As far as pulling them for bailing - that has never been on my radar. My intention is install a hand operated Bilge Pump – similar to my last boat. I’m just not into pulling Floor Boards in an emergency situation to bail water! I’m sure I can remain afloat with water covering them and once settled can leisurely pump the remaining water out.

    Further work on the Trim has been happening. One coat of epoxy over everything with 3 coats now applied to the inside surfaces. There are still two more coats on the outside required followed by sanding prior to installation. I think they’ll look pretty smick!

    P1010086-1.jpg P1010087-1.jpg
    Laurie - away from the sea

  15. #269
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    Default 126a Toe Rails

    I have put aside the Trim and am now working on the Toe Rails. This is progressing ever so slowly but what can a man do when swamped with other stuff! Anyway, I pulled the templates I had saved from the Deck Covering Boards and have used these to provide new templates for the Toe Rails (I nearly threw them away but luckily I’m a bit of a hoarder and don’t like doing things like that until the object I’m working on is fully complete) They just needed a tiny reshaping and I was good to go. The biggest hurdle was deciding if they should be flush with the hull or slightly inboard. Some shots of the decision process.

    I finally decided that they needed to be inboard a little.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Laurie - away from the sea

  16. #270
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    Default 127 Toe Rails Cont...

    What was I thinking?! Just goes to show that if you don’t stay on top of it you lose your place. Apologies for that. Anyway, here some shots of the templates

    P1010092-1.jpg P1010091-1.jpg P1010089-1.jpg P1010093-1.jpg P1010097-1.jpg

    Subsequently, after all the fiddling, I have cut the wood and have fit the fabricated Toe Rails in place. I wanted to paint the templates a dark colour but when searching for a spray can of paint that would do the job I found nothing except a bit of gold – go figure! After planing, my Toe Rails were 28mm high x 32 wide for the full length. I put that up, clamped them in place and contemplated my navel for some time prior to finally deciding to taper them in width. I then put that up and contemplated my navel some more before finally deciding to taper them in height as well. It didn’t take long to get to this position, just 3 weeks!

    First cut...after width taper. Still didn't like it - too thick

    IMG_0646-1.jpg IMG_0643-1.jpg

    After tapering the thickness

    P1010109-1.JPG P1010108-1.JPG P1010111-1.JPG

    Just some thoughts about chopping and changing what I’m doing – my aim at the moment is to get all the add-on bits ready so that I’m fully prepared when I go to complete the painting. The object is to have them available and fully epoxied so that it is a simple matter to tape up, paint, fix the bits and commence the varnish process for everything without having to produce new major bits.

    The Toe Rails are now available awaiting epoxy and I’ve moved on to the Handrails and Winch Bases for the Coach Roof and that should be it, I can commence painting, then fixing, plugging and finally get onto varnishing.
    Laurie - away from the sea

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