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Thread: Tom Cat

  1. #286
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Eustis, FL, USA
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    2,252

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    Typically you'll initially oil things up, before the rails are on, but then you'll oil again after they're on, too. Oil doesn't last long, so this will be an ongoing affair with your boat.

    What I do with rails is drill oversize holes, which are filled with epoxy, then drilled the appropriate size for the fasteners (bonding), but then I use a countersink bit in each hole, which creates a divot at the hole, for bedding to live in when you install the rails. This is an old trick I'm sure you know about, but thought I'd mention. When you snug down the fasteners, the bedding crushes around the fastener in the countersunk divot, making a much better seal.

    To oil or not before the rails go on. Well, I like the idea of some oil (let it dry well) under the rails, before they go on, but I've seen plenty of boats, that were assembled before a drop of oil was applied. Give the oil a week (at least) or two before bedding the rails.

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  3. #287
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Toowoomba
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    66
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    252

    Default 136 Rub Rail, Coaming and Coachroof Trim Installation

    I’m on leave so I finally found some time to do some work on the boat.

    I have joined my Rub Rails so that they are full length with a short splice and they have gone on with no problem. Extra screws assisted and should help in the area of the join. Next job was to ream out the existing screw plug holes with a hole cutter as they had some epoxy in them stopping a good fit. I am using Sikaflex 291 Black to bed the Rails and with bronze screws every 300mm or so. Everything was cleaned up and the perimeter taped so I didn’t get black goop all over “my yet to be oiled” Deck.

    Following that I took some advice from the internet and bunged the holes using varnish as the adhesive. This didn’t work out that well and some of the bungs fell out during the trimming process so when completing the Coaming/Coachroof Trim I used a standard woodworking adhesive instead. In this area I used Sikaflex 291 White as the paint here will also be white.

    The NG Rosewood utilised for the trim is quite gnarly in places and consequently a couple of the plugs have split with the grain below the bung hole rim during trimming them off flush. Not to worry I will use some matching filler where this has occurred and once this has been done I can begin applying the final coats of epoxy and then varnish to all the Trim prior to paint.

    Oh, still need to attach the Bulkhead Trims – just remembered. Have to be my next job!

    P1010174-1.JPG P1010179-1.JPG P1010186-1.JPG P1010192-1.JPG
    P1010205-1.JPG P1010206-1.JPG P1010208-1.JPG P1010209-1.JPG
    P1010211-1.JPG

    Getting there...
    Just some further notes. Because I had epoxied all the trim pieces before the installation began it was not necessary to cover the Trim bits with tape. The epoxied surface allowed me to peel off the 291 after it had gone off and after the joint was sliced with a knife. Neat and clean and some further rubbing with a finger removed any excess giving the finish shown in the pics. Any discrepancies should be covered when the painting is done. The top join of the Rub rails was completed with the knife held horizontal to the Deck surface rather then into the joint.
    Laurie - away from the sea

  4. #288
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    Default 137 Where am I?

    Well, the Xmas break is over and unfortunately not much has been achieved over the break but we are all ready for the varnishing to commence. The plan is to apply 3 coats to give me that seal I'm looking for between the trim pieces and the paint. I'm not sure I mentioned this before - I read it somewhere that it was a good idea to go down this road so am going to give it a try. I am aiming for about 7 coats all up so the final 4 will done after the painting has been completed. This will give me 3 coats of epoxy and 7 coats of varnish with rubbing back between coats as necessary. A bit of overkill maybe but in my book bright work needs looking after.

    I have also got the first coat of paint on the keel around the Centre Board slot- been putting it off for ages so bit the bullet yesterday, got under the boat, prepped and got it started. 2 coats to come to finish that off. My biggest dilemma was how to cut it in to the existing finish so in the end went with masking tape and subsequently will be left with a line where the fresh coat meets the old. I figure it's way under there and no one will see it! The idea here is to get the boat onto a trailer ASAP. If we have any kind of fire here I'll lose the boat so am looking for assistance as to the best trailer solution for my little, 12' 1/2" footer!
    Laurie - away from the sea

  5. #289
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Wollongong
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    70

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    Sounds like you have the varnishing 'thing' well researched.
    It is an area which can do your head in sometimes, with so many opinions out there on the rights and wrongs!.
    Basically I reckon, if a well executed finish is covered up and kept out of the sun as much as possible,the finish will last very well over a long period of time.

    On trailers,having a swallow tail helps on the retrieving when leading the boat back on board.Also having a long run of rollers at the base will support the keel nicely. May I suggest,three sets of multi rollers either side to spread the support loads on the hull sides.

    Still love your work!

  6. #290
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    Default 138 Bow Eye Bolt

    GregleeTaylor's effort on the other forum prompted me to share the bronze Eye Bolt I procured locally at a very reasonable price from Briggs Marine in Melbourne. In comparison to his effort (for which he gets 10 marks from me) I thought this bolt to be most adequate for a boat of this size and when procured saves one hell of a lot of time. There was no need to adjust anything except its length which just needed shortening a bit. Even the width was perfect for the Stem. Sorry about the white epoxy dust on it - forgot to wipe it off. Glad I didn't go down Greg's road - too much work.

    P1010216-1.jpg P1010215-1.jpg P1010212-1.JPG

    Also got another coat on the bottom of the CB slot and many thanks for the advice Cool Runnings.
    Laurie - away from the sea

  7. #291
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    Feb 2008
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    Eustis, FL, USA
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    Rollers on the keel are desirable, but not on the planking of a wooden boat. You'll just test the pullout strength of each fastener they roll over them. Simply put, lots of ruined planks because of rollers, instead of bunks.

    The rule with varnish is sufficient film thickness, to insure you only need to repair and touchup just varnish. I'm in a climate much like yours and we use a lot of coats, knowing at the end of each season, we'll have to sand and scuff likely all of the top layer (in places) and some if not all of the second layer. Knowing this, you need at least 3 layers of coats under the 2 damaged layers, to offer enough protection to the wood (and epoxy) below. Frankly, I put on a lot more than this, especially over epoxy, because UV will darken epoxy pretty quickly if it's not protected. 4 - 6 "bulking" coats with at least this many "finish" coats. The bulking coats are as they sound, just slathered on to build film thickness. These get smoothed and flattened, then the finish coats go down, with much more effort applied, to making them smooth and flat. It's more technique and ability to get similar results with each coat, than anything else. Lastly, use the best stuff you can afford.

  8. #292
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pennsylvania, US
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    40

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    Happy New Year Laurie!

    You're right on the work AND expense for the made up bow eye! I would like to have been able to find one as nice as yours and I looked all over... In the end, having seen one on somebody's blog, I decided I could make one...

    Two others in the San Francisco area are added on building Tom Cat's now following your lead. You have "written the book" on it for sure. Most recently I have been looking to see how you attacked the toe rail up at the stem. I am trying to plan the use of chocks up there but cant figure how to fasten them; maybe just screwed in and not through bolted...

    Did you read recently the advocates for epoxying on rub rails?! I was planing on screwing them in with bedding compound but it WOULD be pretty easy to plane em off and scrap clean if renewing is required...

    Centerboard stuff nearly finished, floors and frames next up.

    Anyway its 19 degrees Fahrenheit here tonight... best to you,

    Greg

  9. #293
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    Dec 2007
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    Toowoomba
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    Default 139 Brightwork Varnish

    Well, the finish work continues – the trim was all taped up for varnishing but I ensured all the bedding compound in the joins was left uncovered during this process. Varnishing this should ensure waterproof integrity in these areas. As you can imagine I am quite anal about not allowing water in the joins between the trim and the substrate it is being attached to. To that end all the trim has been epoxied on the join side also and then sanded.
    The initial three coats of varnish are on and the tape in the attached photos has been removed as it needs to be reversed for the paint to go on. Next job is to sand smooth the varnish then we can commence with the paint undercoat where it’s required in the unfinished areas. As mentioned in previous notes I am an International paints man so will be giving 2 coats of Pre-Kote undercoat after the sanding and retaping is complete.

    It's amazing what a lamp can achieve - you just see the shiny areas at the top of this pic - without the light this would be missed. The first two are associated with prep work
    P1010221-1.JPG P1010218-1.JPG

    These two after one coat varnish
    P1010227-1.JPG P1010226-1.JPG P1010224-1.JPG
    Laurie - away from the sea

  10. #294
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    Feb 2008
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    Eustis, FL, USA
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    I've been waiting for this stage of your build. Can't wait until you pull the tape.

  11. #295
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    Default 140 Stem Head

    Before the painting commences I took a tour to ensure I was all prepped correctly and I found I had forgotten the Stem Head!
    My pics below show the process I went thru to ascertain the shape and after some trials came up with what you see and how I went about it.

    First job - fiddle and experiment with shape. Nearly forgot the Toe Rail height!!
    P1010230-1.jpg

    When happy - make template
    P1010228-1.jpg

    Transfer the template both sides
    P1010231-1.jpg P1010232-1.jpg P1010233-1.jpg

    Cut and shape! All done except need to add some epoxy coats and then ready for paint
    P1010234-1.jpg P1010236-1.jpg
    Laurie - away from the sea

  12. #296
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    That's one of the most common stem shapes I cut and I call it a truncated Roman ogee. When I do a stem, where a painter hole is necessary, I do a eagle head stem, which if viewed from the side and the grain well positioned, has bird's bead look. Your boat is going to look wonderful. More photos please.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #297
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    Default 141 Undercoat

    It has begun! I thought it was going to be a dog of a process and I was right. Painting inside the tiny cabin met all my expectations 100%. It’s no wonder I kept putting it off.

    I am using International Pre Kote and the first coat has gone on everywhere straight from the can with no thinning. With the second coat I went with 50/50 Pre Kote and Toplac (the finish paint) in the cabin and inside the cockpit area. All exterior was straight Pre Kote.
    So now the undercoat is done and am now looking to have it harden up a bit prior to attacking it with some finish paper to make it lovely and smooth for the final couple of finish coats in Toplac white.

    P1010239-1.jpg P1010242-1.jpg P1010241-1.jpg

    P1010243-1.jpg P1010244-1.jpg

    I have also purchased my new trailer and just need to pick it up when work allows it! Over two hour drive to get it. Need to scratch my head on the logistics of moving it from its home on the building frame of over 7 years to its new home on the trailer. Gosh, looking back I wonder where the time has gone!
    Laurie - away from the sea

  14. #298
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Morgan SA
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    147

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    Wll your shed support a pair of slings? Since this photo I have mounted a pair of winches on the uprights. It's a lot easier but the manual system still works.
    phone photos 10.1.2013 135.jpg
    Cheers, Mark

  15. #299
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    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pennsylvania, US
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    Hello Laurie,

    Another salute to you and your build documentation; both outstanding!

    I'm pleased to see your progress and look forward to the spars and hardware stages.

    As long as it takes me to proceed with steps, I'm ever grateful to you for showing the way. You can see I'm using almost all your steps and decisions. Most recently, I'm happy to go off your floor/frame placement and I have also sent out for a quote on seat spindle turning. I was excited to get a small lathe and add the fun to the build but... I wouldn't have much use for it after.. I'll save some time and money instead.

    I have already saved my self much aggravation following along and have a far better result for my little cat.

    Best,

    Greg

  16. #300
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    Default 142 Overcoat

    Finally! Found time to slap on the initial overcoat and due to other commitments forgot the transom piece and the Stem Head! @#$%. Oh well….can’t do much about that now. It will have to wait until I do the second coat tomorrow.

    There is a slight difference in whiteness between the Brightsides White on the hull and the Toplac White on the Coamings et al. Will have to wait and see what she looks like when the varnish coats are complete on all the trim pieces to see if it matters that much. Anyway, progress!!!

    P1010245-1.JPG P1010246-1.JPG P1010250-1.JPG P1010252-1.JPG

    BTW....many thanks for your input guys. Appreciate the kudos and the suggestions! and Greg, asrainox, oferazz...watching, watching
    Laurie - away from the sea

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