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Thread: Tom Cat

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default Deadwood

    The TCB has now been permanently epoxied in place with all my many screws and plugs. The plugs have been dressed off and the TCB sanded ready for epoxy coating.

    DSC01456 (Large).JPG DSC01457 (Large).JPG DSC01460 (Large).JPG DSC01462 (Large).JPG
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    The Deadwood has had three coats of epoxy, the last slightly thickened to take out some unevenness that came to light whilst sanding. For fixing I have included 4 SB 5/16” bolts thru to the Transom Knee (2) and Apron (2) plus one screw up thru the Apron and three screws down thru the thinner portion at the Centreboard end. These three will be removed as the Aft Keel piece will be attached up thru the Apron in the same area. The remaining fixings will be permanent. The plan is to epoxy the Aft Keel in place then remove all the fixings for it, plug the holes and dress off. This will remove the need to worry about them should we wish to remove the piece in the future.

    I have provided a couple of pics showing my method of achieving a vertical Deadwood during the assembly process. One thing I like about boat building are the never ending challenges!

    DSC01459 (Large).JPG DSC01458 (Large).JPG

    I am currently working at the final shaping of the Stem and epoxy coating in readiness to assemble all the keel pieces in place. I had been awaiting a delivery of the brass half round to ensure the width at the fwd face of the Stem would be accurate. The plans have called for this dimension to be the same as the brass and I had contemplated making it slightly larger then the ½” stipulated but in the end thought it would look better as designed. Let’s hope I can do a good job of it!

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  3. #92
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default Stem and Keels 1

    The Stem is now complete and fixed in place after fairing into the Fwd Keel piece. I have permanently affixed it with SB screws and epoxy. I had cut a small piece of the brass D Mould (I think it’s more a D mould than a half round) to fair off the Stem to ensure I had a nice fit all round. The holes are plugged so it’s all complete except for some final fairing into the hull with some epoxy fairing filler.


    DSC01469 (Large).JPG DSC01474 (Large).JPG DSC01475 (Large).JPG

    The Fwd and Aft Keel pieces have been epoxied in place with no additional fixings. I am contemplating one screw fore and aft in each piece just for my own peace of mind as there are some anecdotes about Oak being difficult to epoxy.


    DSC01471 (Large).JPG DSC01476 (Large).JPG DSC01470 (Large).JPG
    I have also completed the cut-out in the Deadwood for the lower Gudgeon. This all went pretty well using a chisel to initially define the border and then used a small router to complete the majority of the work, finishing with the chisel and bastard file to get a good fit. This will require a couple of coats of epoxy prior to permanently fixing in place with “Fix N Seal” compound down the track.


    DSC01480 (Large).JPG DSC01482 (Large).JPG DSC01481 (Large).JPG DSC01478 (Large).JPG
    When I return from holidays down south I will complete the CB slot Keel pieces.

  4. #93
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default Keels 2

    OK… have reached the stage where all the bits for the external Backbone that need gluing on are now on!

    The Keel pieces have been faired to square everything up, the edges have been rounded with the trusty router and the time honoured glass paper. All screw holes have been plugged and faired off with the exception of the CB Keels. These have been pre-drilled to accommodate the screws to be used for the fixing of the CB Case when the boat is turned over. These holes have also been drilled thru the Backbone with clearance fit diameters to suit the large bronze screws in these locations.

    DSC01483 (Large).JPG DSC01484 (Large).JPG DSC01485 (Medium).JPG DSC01489 (Large).JPG
    DSC01490 (Large).JPG DSC01491 (Large).JPG DSC01492 (Medium).JPG

    I have also given the TCB a couple of coats of straight epoxy in an effort to catch up with the rest of the hull in readiness for the final stage.

    DSC01493 (Medium).JPG

    Unfortunately (or fortunately, depends on your viewpoint and state mind. Mine is “unfortunately”!) it is now back to final fairing. I have added two more coats of slightly thickened epoxy and have commenced the horrid but necessary task of torture boarding. I will follow this by adding fairing compound to those areas that show up as hollows, fair them off and finally followed by two thin coats of straight epoxy.

    To make the job of finding the hollows easier I have tinted the mix with black pigment. This has turned out grey and it is easy to see the hollows in real time. I have done a small area to see the results but the pics don’t show it that well.

    DSC01494 (Medium).JPG DSC01495 (Medium).JPG DSC01496 (Medium).JPG DSC01499 (Medium).JPG


    Anyway, that’s where I’m at and I will need some determination to see this stage thru especially in this weather. Hot, hot ,hot!!! I’ve already skipped every night this week and will be away on work for a couple of days next week so will not progress much in the short term.

  5. #94
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    simferopol
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Dear Dry Water.

    My name is Sergey.

    I live in Russia, by the black sea, near city Sochi.

    I really like your boat.

    You are very nice build it.

    Best regards,

    Р.S. Forgive for bad English.

  6. #95
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default Final Fairing

    It's happening but oh, so slow! Torture boarding is exactly that...torture! The "back to work" period has reduced my productivity to a snails pace. At least I've finished the major work on the starboad side. Onto the port side next week. No pics.. too disheartening to see the shiny port side awaiting the many tools I've got lined up to get the job done. Funny how you think you have discovered the answer to the allevaition of hard work only to find that not only has someone thought of it before but it isn't any better than all the other things you've already tried! 80 grit paper on my 600mm torture board is equal to 80 grit on my 200 torture board! Does it sound like I'm completely bored with wearing out my shoulders, having my arms feel like jello after just an hour out there and leaving the shed totally drenched in sweat. Hope so, if not I'll come up with new phrases and adjectives if required! Never mind I know it will be worth it. Can't wait until some nonce comes up and makes a comment about my "FG" boat. I'll have so much pleasure in pointing out the truth as to the build material.
    That's it for this week... stay tuned, as things will start to get exciting as the imminent weeks roll by.

  7. #96
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default Last Bits Before Primer

    Nothing is ever as it seems. All my fairing is done including getting the keel etc all done and ready to go. Then I found a strip next to the Keel where I’ve gone thru the epoxy and exposed the laminate so have had to redo that portion. Currently letting the epoxy go off to allow another coat and then fair off. Thankfully it’s only about 1M long by 50-60W so no big task, just frustrating.

    The time consuming task that has been taking all my attention are the fit of the Gudgeon and Pintles and the Tiller Aperture. You can see in the pics how I have removed one cheek of the Rudder to see how it will eventually look. These are now all done with the exception that the Tiller Aperture will need more work on the inside once turned over. It’s too hard to get at presently. I wanted to get all things on the Transom and Deadwood completely finished ready for final bedding of the fittings prior to priming ie. everything covered with a couple of coats of epoxy including the machine screw holes for the Upper Gudgeon. These go thru the Transom and the Transom/Apron Knee. The holes didn’t come out in the middle of the Knee which disappointed me but structurally the whole thing will still be sound.

    I’ve purchased all the bronzeware unpolished so have spent some time at the bench and on the buffer attempting to smooth the castings a bit. I had all good intentions of leaving them rough but they were much rougher than expected and what the hell..I thought I’d give it go and see how they turn out. Not bad but not perfect either..besides, I don’t want to be out polishing up all the bits so they stay shiny!

    The pics show the arrangement I have used for the Rudder/Tiller alignment with the Tiller Aperture. I have given the work a couple coats of epoxy as you can see. Did these over the weekend. Sometimes wet weather can be a bonus in more ways than one. Now I will worry about the question of finishing the Transom with Bote-Cote Top Coat Clear before priming the hull or leave it until later when I’m doing all the clear coating. Some doco suggests completing the varnishing or clear coating prior to paint but we’ll see. Need to contemplate my navel a bit more on that.

    Pic 1 & 2 All epoxied up awaiting final sanding.

    P2140154 (Medium).JPG P2140156 (Medium).JPG

    Pic 3 General Rudder arrangement Port side

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    Pic 4 & 5 General Rudder arrangement Stbd side
    DSC01502 (Medium).JPG DSC01503 (Medium).JPG

    Pic 6 The finished work awaiting sanding

    DSC01510 (Medium).JPG

  8. #97
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Thumbs up First Primer Coat

    Well, I’ve finally got there. What with inclement weather and all I was beginning to think it was never going to happen.

    I am very pleased with the result so far with regard the fairness of the hull. It is easier to see when it is all one colour. However, the top coats may tell another story. I read many mails, trowelled thru all my Woodenboat, Watercraft and AABB mags before making a decision on the best way forward to paint the boat. There are also many threads on this topic on the AU and NA forums but in the end I went with the paint manufacturer’s recommendation on the can (International). On epoxy - 2 coats of Primer, 2-3 of Pre-Kote and a couple of coats of Brightside. One can argue all you like about the necessity of all this because of requirement, cost and efficiency but one thing is sure…I am going to sleep well at night.

    I brushed this first coat on with a 75mm brush but will try the foam roller/tip with brush routine with the next coat.

    DSC01516 (Medium).JPG DSC01517 (Medium).JPG DSC01514 (Medium).JPG

    DSC01515 (Medium).JPG DSC01513 (Medium).JPG DSC01518 (Medium).JPG

    So where to from here – I will W&D sand with 120G before laying on another coat of Primer whilst I decide the best way forward. I say that because I am now in a quandary…should I turn her over after the Primer coats or should I continue all the way thru? The reason for the dilemma is the CB Case. I could attach it now while she’s upside down by ripping out a couple of the moulds or turn her over and complete it then. The issue I have with that is the attachment is via screws up thru the keel and then plugging the screw holes etc from underneath whereas it is easy to get at her in her present position. These are the decisions that give me sleepless nights.

    My schedule for painting (no matter the decision on turning) is planned to go like this……….
    Primer 1 W&D 120G
    Primer 2 W&D 180G
    Pre Kote1 W&D 220G
    Pre Kote2 W&D 320G
    Pre Kote3 We’ll see
    Top Coat 1 W&D 320G or 400G
    Top Coat 2

    Not sure if every coat will be wet sanded. Depends on how I feel at the time I suppose but the idea of wet sanding appeals as it keeps the dust down. Laying old cardboard boxes around the hull will pick up the drips and I can just chuck ‘em out afterwards. I have access to a good supply so can change them each time.

    The question of the Transom coats has been made. I shall leave it until just before the top coats go on ie. not now. I think it safer to do it after turnover, the interior is complete and all brightwork ready to go so that I can do it all in one go.

    The new pics show the primed hull awaiting the 1st W&D 120G hit.

  9. #98
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default Second Pre Kote

    Things never seem to go as planned. Wasn’t happy with the roll and tip scenario so went back to the brush for the second primer coat. In the end it went really well and I wet sanded with 120G in lieu of 180g. This provided a great base for the first coat of Pre Kote. This was wet sanded with 180G and on completion showed areas that had been filled with the undercoat further smoothing the finish.

    Work away has prevented me moving forward until this weekend and timing only allowed for another Pre Kote but we’re moving forward and that’s the main game.

    Here are some pics of the first Pre Kote wet sanded and some pics of the second coat of Pre Kote. Not a lot of difference but for me it’s a way forward.

    DSC01519 (Medium).JPG DSC01520 (Medium).JPG DSC01521 (Medium).JPG DSC01522 (Medium).JPG

    P5030006 (Large).JPG P5030007 (Large).JPG P5030008 (Large).JPG P5030009 (Large).JPG

    By the way…I removed the protective paper and foil from the transom after this latest coat as the paint was beginning to build up in the corners that would make it very difficult to remove at the very end. It’s a bit more work but worth the trouble. Believe me I know from previous experience!

    P5030005 (Large).JPG

    I’m now thinking that this may be the time to varnish the transom as it has been published that it is always good to do paint AFTER varnish. I understand the concept but maybe that is if you cut in freehand and not using tape. I’m a tape addict so……………..I’ll bung it back on for the last Pre Kote and think again.

  10. #99
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    I can hear the comments at the boat ramp now "Nice boat mate, who makes them" and "great finish on that glass mate, how did they get the transom to look like wood".

    Looking really nice I don't mind the wet rubbing sure beats the torture board.

  11. #100
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    South Oz, the big smokey bit in the middle
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,377

    Default

    Paint AFTER varnish eh? I wasn't aware of that one ... and considering my plans, I need to be.

    I'm not a tape fanatic, but I've got a steady enough hand for my purposes and my boats don't even aspire to looking like this build's turning ouit. She's gunna be a stunner.

    Richard

  12. #101
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    I've heard those comments many times and always had problems with it. Though I understand why they are saying it, I can't get past the insult and usually offer up a blustered blurting of it's real building material. I'm a weak person I guess.

    It's been a joy watching you put this lass together.

  13. #102
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Aberfoyle Park SA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,787

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Daddles View Post
    Paint AFTER varnish eh?

    yep
    you can wipe paint off varnish (or unsanded pox) without trace.
    but not off bare wood

    ask me how I know this.
    on second thoughts...
    cheers
    AJ

  14. #103
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default Bottom Topcoat

    The bottom topcoat has now been applied. I ended up doing three coats as the first coat had some runs in it that were not acceptable. I sanded this back a bit after getting rid of the runs and then applied two coats over a two day period so that I would not need to sand between coats. I don’t know if it’s the cold weather but I didn’t get the smooth finish I got in my previous boat. I’m a bit disappointed but maybe I’m being too picky. You'll also notice that she's not finished around the CB slot. This is because the CB won't be fitted until turnover. Both vertical Logs protrude thru the slot and need to be cut off plus the Bed Log is screwed up thru the Keel so this won't be finished until that is all complete. Not looking forward to working upside down.

    I gave varnishing the transom away as I still need to cut the top to the same shape as the deck and cannot do that right now (knowing me I would splinter the varnish job while cutting anyway).

    So onto the topsides…she’s all prepped and ready to go, just waiting for the right temperature conditions. I can put up with a few brush marks on the bottom but not the topsides. My wife suggested I put my paint pot in hot water for a time to provide more flowability in these temperatures. She reckons I did this last time but damned if I remember I did that.

    See some pics of the job below. Unfortunately, these were taken at night and I had strung up a translucent plastic drop cloth to stop the spider crap from the roof from ruining my paint job. Therefore the lighting is diffused giving it a matt look that isn’t real so I’ve added a couple that I took at the end of the first coat during the daytime that is closer to the end result.

    P5220013 (Medium).JPG P5220017 (Medium).JPG P6010007 (Medium).JPG P6010009 (Medium).JPG P6010012 (Medium).JPG

    Anyway, I have started work on the cheek pieces inside the CB Case. Something I should have done during its construction. I have cut some Tas Oak and applied some FG tape with epoxy to provide improved wear resistance. The pic shows the style with the first coat of epoxy/glass. The idea is to add thickened epoxy to smooth it out then cut into two pairs of cheek pieces that will ultimately be fixed inside the case. These will go in at 60 degrees to enable the best bearing surface for the CB no matter the position. They will match the thickness of the Bedlogs when finished. Also I won’t epoxy these in but rather fix them in with Fixseal and RH SB screws from the outside so that they can be replaced over time.

    P6010005 (Medium).JPG P6010006 (Medium).JPG

    (I just had a mild heart attack as I was looking at the pic I took of the glasswork because it looked as though the glass had floated from the side. A mad dash to the shed revealed it was just a light bit of grain in the oak!)

  15. #104
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    Looks very fine from this angle.

    How did you pick up the water line
    Mike
    "Working to a rigidly defined method of doubt and uncertainty"

  16. #105
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Age
    72
    Posts
    373

    Default

    Damn! I knew I had forgotten something. Meant to take a pic of my method but have now pulled it to pieces. Will try to explain.
    Considering the top of the Strongback is level in all directions I took a piece of 100X32 pine framing timber that was long enough to reach from one side to the other and attached a reinforced vertical piece to it. I cut a slot in the top at the right height to take another horizontal piece with a sharp point then just moved it around between the frames and marked the hull thusly. Sounds awful but a picture is worth a thousand words. Will attempt to remember to put it together again and take a pic.

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