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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by b.o.a.t. View Post
    . . . If I could just convince the roof to stop dripping on the sanded deck at random places & intervals...
    When I've had this issue, I just draped a plastic painter's drop cloth over the boat or over a simple frame over the boat.

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  3. #17
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    Jun 2007
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    Aberfoyle Park SA
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    Did that Paul - draped a polytarp over her.
    Blasted fog & wind driven misty drizzle got up under it & wet the deck anyway.

    Had our first sunny day in about 2 weeks today, so got it all fairly dry again.
    Will try to keep it dry with combination of sheets & tarp until Tues evening, when I hope to seal the deck with pox.

    Do you have any thoughts on the diagonal strip hull - what the strips might be ?
    cheers
    Alan J

    Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer

  4. #18
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    When I have wind issues on a tarped or otherwise covered boat, I often use milk jugs, filled with water to hold things down. I tie them to the tarp, through the grommets or staple pads to the cover and attach the jigs with a length of line.

    Many diagonal planked boats use hardwood, to get the most strength and stiffness per unit of thickness they can. As to the species, well your country has many good ones to choose from, so you'll just have to sand an area down and have a look. Meranti is a logical choice, but it could be anything.

  5. #19
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    Jan 2009
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    Blaxland, Australia
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    Very interesting boat, b.o.a.t. .

    I'm looking on with great interest. So is Mr Snappy . "Wotcha, b.o.a.t.", says Mr S.

    Cheers,
    the alex

  6. #20
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    Well done on getting a gig to Wentworth, Alex.
    The black snot should have cleared up after a few days... ;-)

    Thirsty deck.
    Really. Thirsty. Deck.
    3 coats of pox squeegeed over nearly 3 hours before it mostly filled up the cracking in the outer veneer.
    Some areas are still slurping it up.
    Will have to give it another dose in the morning.

    Was a bit worried I'd lose my resolve to paint once the grain showed up under the clear.
    So far, not wavering.
    The dark deck timber just gets too hot in our sunny clime.
    Cooks the clear coating & the timber.
    WP_20150819_002.jpg WP_20150819_007.jpg

    No raised collar around the new mast hole.
    The bowsprit sits over it almost flush with the deck.
    When not in use I'll make a plug for it. (or tape it over).
    When in use, there's only about 2 litres of spare volume in the mast box.
    If it proves a problem, I'll put a drain hole in the bottom of it, out next to the keel.
    Same as John Welsford has designed into his Houdini.
    Alan J

    Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer

  7. #21
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    Hmmm...varnish - I looked at those new photos and twitched!

    Looking good - when is the estimated launch date, or did I overlook it?

    Cheers,
    Alex.

  8. #22
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    There will be varnish, but only on the bits that aren't freshly epoxied - coaming, gunwales, deck blocks, etc.
    (You may resume twitching !! )
    Been using Norglass on the spars. Quite thick for a varnish.
    Dried product seems more plastic than I recall International being, but nicely toned & shiny.
    Re-launch, finished or not will be mid-October when my sister comes to visit.
    From now until then, my calendar looks like mayhem so I was pushing the last few weeks to get get everything re-sealed.
    Apart from a few daubs of varnish, there might not be much happen for a while now...
    Alan J

    Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer

  9. #23
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    G'Day b.o.a.t.,

    Twitch twitch,...,I liked the Norglass varnish, and ended up using it to redo the 'Duck's deck after the branch/falling off the trailer fiascos (separate incidents, as you might recall).

    Things are rather stupidly busy here suddenly, with a whole lot of HRs to get done before the Fire Season starts - I think on 1 September this year. Except, of course that it started a few weeks ago at Wentworth Falls. The ground is incredibly dry, and things burn the way that they shouldn't in winter (well, early spring - I always think that spring begins around 15 August at these (Sydney and Adelaide) latitudes). I was involved in an HR at Faulconbridge last weekend, and that was a real eye-opener; I'm taking part in another one tomorrow, and possibly next weekend as well. No rest for the wicked.

    Good luck getting everything trussed up in time!

    Twitch twitch,
    the alex.

  10. #24
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    Not fair, prickly pear.
    Youse mob get to burn stuff. We're only allowed to put it out.
    Unless it was going to burn anyway, and the wind has died down, and, and, and...
    Wet & green here. Will be for a few months yet.
    Alan J

    Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer

  11. #25
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    Well, the joke's on me - the burn was cancelled last night on account of the strong winds that we are going to be having here today. At the moment, however, it's a flat calm (that of course can change in the blink of an eye). Pity, because it's an area that hasn't been burnt for over 50 years, and has directly impact on our neck o' the woods. Oh well.

    Cheers,
    Alex.

  12. #26
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    update. picking away at bits & pieces....
    hatch cover for forward buoyancy compartment.
    WP_20150912_002.jpg

    Inspired by PAR's recent launch, I thought I'd have a go at toe rails.
    Ethel has a very long forward deck containing very little to hang onto.
    Triton & planer too much of a PITA to un-bury to make laminations.
    12x19 meranti too stiff to take the bend without snapping at screw holes, and no way to clamp it in place.
    Never tried steaming.
    Or boiling.

    Grabbed a suitable length of 75mm pvc stormwater pipe.
    Inserted meranti & filled it from a kettle - about 10L of boiled water.
    15 mins later, no detectable softening, & even though I immediately clamped to a former, it sprung back straight.

    Re configured pipe as steamer with fence wire racking every 200mm.
    Conventional wisdom says 20 mins for each 1" thickness....
    By the 10 min mark, the PVC pipe had more or less collapsed.
    Along with my nerve.
    WP_20150913_001.jpg

    Whipped them out & clamped them.
    Achieved almost 10mm ongoing deflection in 1400mm.
    WP_20150913_006.jpg WP_20150913_014.jpg

    And the pipe is too wrecked to have a second go.
    Ah well, it cost nothing to try.
    WP_20150913_011.jpg

    Briefly considered making a steam box from some 17mm ply in the carport.
    Same hassle applied extracting the Triton from its corner in the shed.
    And anyway, it was drizzling outside where I'd be working.

    Bought some 100mm DWV and an elbow ($29)
    Installed fence wire racking & loaded it up.
    Drooped a bit but lasted the full 15-20 mins.
    WP_20150914_001.jpg

    Clamped the meranti within a few seconds.
    Achieved not enough on-going deflection...
    Not even close to enough.
    The now cooled bent meranti seems even stiffer than before - even less chance of holding.
    So I now have two bits of useless bent meranti.
    And I'm $29 down on the DWV, which will probably never be used again.

    Choices...
    1. un-bury the triton & planer, make laminations, and accept a month or so delay in getting finished (other things on my plate). Or
    2. forget about it, and get on with sanding & painting to be done in the next week or three...

    Option 2 is looking good at the moment.
    Alan J

    Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer

  13. #27
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    Feb 2008
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    Morgan SA
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    Quote Originally Posted by b.o.a.t. View Post
    Conventional wisdom says 20 mins for each 1" thickness....
    I always thought the standard was 1 hour per 1" of thickness. That's certainly what I've used from 30 minutes for 1/2" blackwood to 2 hours for 2" redgum.

    Mark

  14. #28
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    G'day Mark
    I just pulled the numbers from a couple of old postings here & over on woodenboat.
    I've no idea really.
    Is it worth having another stab at those two pieces, or would they be too damaged now?
    There was a fair bit of powdered resin(?) to be sanded off the surface when they cooled after the second steaming.
    cheers
    Alan J

    Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer

  15. #29
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    I'm quite confident on the 1 hour figure through experience personally and with a shipwright.
    I believe that the more you steam, the less lignum is available so resteaming may not work.
    I haven't steamed meranti but a quick bit of googling suggests that it is rated as 'poor' for steaming.

    So considering all the above, it may be best to start again.

    Mark

  16. #30
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    thanks Mark
    never occurred to me to check if it was suitable for steaming.
    seems my other to-hand species (oregon) isn't recommended either.
    might wander past Bunnies on the way to work tomorrow & see if they have any right sized Tas Oak or dark laminates.
    Failing that, it's unearth the Triton & planer, or not at all...
    cheers
    Alan J

    Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer

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