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Thread: Yippy, I hope

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    New Zealand
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    Default Yippy, I hope

    Hi guys. I have been lurking a while and decided to join up as I am probably going to need some good advice.

    I had a aluminium dingy with a 25hp Merc but wanted something a bit bigger. A boat I could stand up in and stretch the legs, and liking old things and wooden things I decided to sell the tiny and buy a real boat.

    The best part is you can sell a 13' tiny a but a 16' wooden boat for the same money.

    Here are a few pic's of her. Her name is Tina-Marie, built in 1959 and still on her original trailer. She came with no engine but I have bought a 75hp Merc for her which puts the price even with the tiny I sold.

    She has come with a small fish finder and an electric winch for the anchor. A canvas top with full side curtains.







    Work started. I plan on rebuilding the seating and bins. Redoing the varnish and a refit of the gauges and switches.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
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    I have it gutted now and the boat is as sound and solid as I thought. I think the frame timber is Kauri.



    Here is the construction type of the front half of the boat. Looks like Kauri as well. Seems to have some copper fasteners used as well. I presume the timber is placed on in one direction then another layer in the opposite direction. The back half seems to be sheet ply. I am not familiar with this kind of construction so feel free to correct my ignorance. I have built two boats before in my time but both were sheet ply construction.



    Here is the old copper fuel tank. I thought I might try POR15 marine clean to clean out the tank. I will have to see if it is ok to use on copper.



  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Morgan SA
    Posts
    159

    Default

    Looks like quite a worthwhile project. And she seems in good nick for her age - either been looked after well or restored previously maybe.
    Enjoy and keep the photos coming - they keep the story alive.
    Mark

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
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    I have spent a good part of today stripping the paint in the inside of the boat today. Did most of it with paint stripper then finished it by sanding it with the multi tool. The multi tool itself is probably as fast as using paint stripper but the stripper gets into all the nooks and crannies.

    The varnish is a bit more stubborn. I seem to be getting only a very thin coat off with the paint stripper and the sander is struggling with it as well. Does anyone have any good tips for varnish removal. I want to re-varnish it so I want the timber to come out unscathed. I have tried stripper and scotch-brite to get into the corners which seems to work. I was thinking of trying a pot scrub but don't want to damage the timber.
    Any advice appreciated.


  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Gothenburg, Sweden
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    100

    Default

    Heat the varnish carefully with a heat gun and scrape it off with a scraper. The traditional triangular shaped scraper, not the "modern" tungsten carbide variants. Keep the scraper sharp with a fine file. Good luck! /Pontus

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
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    11

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    Quote Originally Posted by scooterpontus View Post
    Heat the varnish carefully with a heat gun and scrape it off with a scraper. The traditional triangular shaped scraper, not the "modern" tungsten carbide variants. Keep the scraper sharp with a fine file. Good luck! /Pontus
    Thanks Pontus. I give it a try tomorrow. Paint stripper is not nice and as soon as you glove up and start using it you get an nose or inner ear and no matter how clean your gloves look there is always a little bit on them that reminds you not to scratch.



    And thanks Mark, the boat seems very sound, just needs a good sand back and an interior refit.

    Cheers Mal

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
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    Default

    A heat gun and scraper is the easiest way to force you to make repairs. If you scorch the wood, you'll probably be painting afterward. If you get aggressive with the scraper, you'll be hoping it'll sand out. It's real easy to screw up with this method. Stick with the chemical stripper and let it remain on the surface longer. You're much less likely to damage the wood. In either case, you'll need to bring the wood down to a raw state, so some sanding and some oxalic acid is probably in the future anyway.

    For future reference, it's usually best to repair varnish, not strip it off. This is because sanding and chemical stripping will remove color from the wood in varying amounts, leaving a blotchy appearance. This blotchy look, needs to be evened out, so you bleach it back with acid and start over. Unless the varnish is heavily damaged and raw, grayed wood is exposed, all you need to do is sand the varnish down and recoat with more varnish.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
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    Thanks for the advice PAR. I may end up painting some of it anyway. The ply around the windows and some other areas. I think it will set off the hard wood better. The dash had layers of bad globby varnish on it and needed to be stripped. The windscreen frame above the dash is much better and will only need a good sand and re-varnish. So far the best way to remove it is with 60 grit on the renovator multi tool. I may attack the aluminium sand paper holder so it's not square sided so the upper edge can't dig into joining timbers when sanding in the corners.

    Cheers Mal

  10. #9
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    Sep 2011
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    I agree with PAR, sand & recoat where possible, and use a varnish with high UV inhibitors, .

    The hull looks to be a Hartley design , and if so will be a good sea boat,

    Good luck

    Jeff

  11. #10
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    Apr 2013
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    New Zealand
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    Quote Originally Posted by vk4 View Post
    I agree with PAR, sand & recoat where possible, and use a varnish with high UV inhibitors, .

    The hull looks to be a Hartley design , and if so will be a good sea boat,

    Good luck

    Jeff

    I think that can be said for the paint as well. I think I am wasting time taking it back to the timber. Once I get down to the pale green or lavender the paint is well adhered. So that's as far as I will be going from now on.

    I wood rather be building the new seats etc than sand.

    Cheers Mal

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Eustis, FL, USA
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    Default

    Yep, the same applies for paint or any coating. Just fix what you need to, fill what requires it, prime and paint.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
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    It's been a long time but I have finally got back to the boat. I am making some new floorboards out of a ply called brownwood. Not a true marine ply, a grade down they tell me. I want to varnish the new ply I am doing the interior with including the floor. Seems two coats of epoxy as a primer sealer is the way to go now. I once built a international Fireball yacht and I used a 4oz cloth which was not noticable when varnished. Overkill using cloth or would it make it more durable. I don't mind the cost if benifical. I see phto bucket have blocked the photo's so I will take some more and re-post through image shack.

    Cheers Malcolm

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
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    68
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    312

    Default

    No photo's yet?
    Laurie - away from the sea

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
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    11

    Default

    No, I managed to download the original photos from photo bucket back to my computer but I am having trouble with image shack even though I paid for the years subsciption. I will get them back up with another host shortly I hope.

  16. #15
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    Apr 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
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    I just discovered if I clicked on the message from photobucket where the photo was it would take me back to the photo at photobucket. Then if I clicked on the post number in the date line eg #1 the photo's came back and I didn't have to pay then 400 bucks. I will see how long they stay. Fingers crossed.

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