Thread: LED globe lifespan

The electronics seem to fail well before the LED chip. They should be forced to advertise the MTBF of the whole lamp rather than the LED.

i have found phillips brand suck, fail really early in life. same with a few others ive tried.
i look after many hundreds of globes, replacing globes weekly pretty much around the place.
best ones i have found to date, never yet had one fail in the 18 months i have been using them are these AT9460 - Atom Lighting in both screw and bayonet type
i will not use anything other than these types while im not having any issues.
im a person who dates globes as well when i install to gauge life spans.

I hope you don't mind me hijacking this thread, but it reminded me of something. I've got some globes (bought cheaply from an auction site) that have an unusual base. I haven't a clue who'd normally use them or maybe I'm just not up with new trends. The box describes the base as GX24q-2.

Does anyone know what they're for or who would use them?

globe.JPG

Originally Posted by jack620

The electronics seem to fail well before the LED chip. They should be forced to advertise the MTBF of the whole lamp rather than the LED.

I agree. flickering LEDs are signs of an electronics issue.

The 20 AEG LED tubes I bought for my shed in 2015 are all still working, except one which was close to my welding bench so I suspect it was an electronic problem cause by a welding pulse. The replacement has been in place for more than 3 years and seems to be coping OK, When I put the new one in I noticed it was definitely brighter than the old ones.

The 3, ~7,000 lumen LED ring lights bought a couple of years back are all still working but I notice one is flickering more than the other.

The 4, 2700 Lumen Phillips globes for my Macro stand are more than 5 years old and still working.

One of the 3 x 10,000 lumen panels I bought in 2021 and put in the welding Bay died, the other is fine.

The Luce Bella Bunnings globes I buy for the kitchen seem to last 2-3 years about same as the Phillips or Osrams.

Changed out all fluro tubes in the shed, about 25, and the few I had in the house for AEG tubes.
Removed the balast and starter and re-wired to the diagram provided. Active to one and and neutral to the other. Some were installed years ago and I have not had a failure yet. Excellent light.

Regards,

John

I inherited a lot of retrofit CLA brand LED bayonet and Edison screw bulbs when I bought the current property 6 years ago. I didn't like the yellow light colour so replaced with Mirabella, then Philips. All the Philips are the better quality ones, not the supermarket ones, though they are about the same price. The original ones got repurposed to friends or sheds, etc. I have about 60 active LED bulbs and only 1 failure in 6 years. I run off-grid solar with a Selectronics SP Pro inverter, which produces first grade electricity with no under or over voltages, frequency variations, surges, spikes or noise - much better than the mains stuff from the gird - so maybe that helps. If grid connected, a surge suppressor in the switchboard is mandatory IMHO.

Those are Compact Fluorescent Lamps which require a special fitting with a ballast. Might be hard to find a fitting for them these days. Maybe sell 'em on Fleabay or something.

Originally Posted by ErrolFlynn

I hope you don't mind me hijacking this thread, but it reminded me of something. I've got some globes (bought cheaply from an auction site) that have an unusual base. I haven't a clue who'd normally use them or maybe I'm just not up with new trends. The box describes the base as GX24q-2.

Does anyone know what they're for or who would use them?

globe.JPG

Can failures be attributed to our varying voltage supplies. We changed to 230 but that was in name only. Perhaps much electronic manufacturing is geared to 220 but another issue is that of dirty power when the off peak frequencies are sent though usually out of hours except for standby equipment. Just a guess.

Originally Posted by phild001

We changed to 230 but that was in name only.

My solar inverter disconnects from the grid when the line voltage hits 256V. I get a message nearly every day that it has dropped off line. That can’t be doing the electronics in my home any good.

Originally Posted by jack620

My solar inverter disconnects from the grid when the line voltage hits 256V. I get a message nearly every day that it has dropped off line. That can’t be doing the electronics in my home any good.

Complain to the power company / distributor. Above 253V is outside the standard I believe.

Originally Posted by pippin88

Complain to the power company / distributor. Above 253V is outside the standard I believe.

I have the same situation and the distributor cane out to look at it. The inspector said this is a problem they are having everywhere with everyone feeding power back into the grid during the day but they can’t wind the supply back because it would be under spec at night when there is maximum load and no solar.

Beardy is correct. They dropped the voltage at the transformer at the end of the street by 7V when I complained a few years ago. But they can’t drop it any more or it will go under the spec when the sun isn’t shining.

WA was 250 and now it's 240V. At Uni this played havoc with scientific gear that was rated at 220-230V so we had quite a few pieces of gear running off Variacs, nd home were regularly burning out incandescent globes.

From Wikipedia:

“Since 2000, the nominal voltage in most areas of Australia has been 230 V, except for Western Australia and Queensland which both remain at 240 V”

That’d be right. 🙄