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Thread: Coquina

  1. #61
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    Hey Mike,
    Its good to see that you are getting started.
    I received my plans a few weeks ago, but I've decided to delay my start until next year.
    I think the Coquina will be a 2 1/2 year project , so I'm in no rush.
    I've a got a Navigator that still needs painting, and I've also decided to build a Lincolnville wherry. The wherry will be good practice for the Coquina, It's got 9 planks per side and the Coquina has got 11, so I should have my spilling technique perfected.
    There is some really good reading material available that describes spilling, but at the end of the day, it all comes down to having a good eye. Luckily enough, Doug Hylans plans are so detailed, that you should be able to get excellent lines even in a tight workshop.

    Looking forward to see your progress.

    Cheers

    Mickj

    PS - If my boat comes out half as good as Breeze's, then I will be over the moon.

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  3. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickj View Post
    Hey Mike,
    Its good to see that you are getting started.
    I received my plans a few weeks ago, but I've decided to delay my start until next year.
    I think the Coquina will be a 2 1/2 year project , so I'm in no rush.
    I've a got a Navigator that still needs painting, and I've also decided to build a Lincolnville wherry. The wherry will be good practice for the Coquina, It's got 9 planks per side and the Coquina has got 11, so I should have my spilling technique perfected.
    There is some really good reading material available that describes spilling, but at the end of the day, it all comes down to having a good eye. Luckily enough, Doug Hylans plans are so detailed, that you should be able to get excellent lines even in a tight workshop.
    Fantastic news it will be good to have a partner in crime to congratulate and commiserate with.

    A wherry will be good practice looking forward to the pics and narrative.

    2 1/2 year build time good on you, I'm not sure on time don't intent to have a deadline just enjoy the ride.

    PS - If my boat comes out half as good as Breeze's, then I will be over the moon.
    Amen to that

  4. #63
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    Default It is starting

    Can't believe it was July last year planning started for the build amazing how work, family and summer can conspire to interrupt boat builders.

    I have been sourcing materials in the mean time some celery top and huon pine and the ply from Denman Marine.

    This last weekend I have made a start in earnest milling some huon for the transom. I have boards that are 1800 x 200mm so three lengths will give me enough wiggle room to get the best looking grain match. The only problem is my jointer is a 6" model so I made a few passes then finished off with a #6 then thicknessed on my Ryobi benchtop. I now know why people rave about working with Huon pine it's like planing butter and the smell is devine.

    Attachment 136139

    Next I made the stem jig and milled the stem lams from celery top, after experimenting with thicknesses 6mm was too thick and 3mm was bordering on ridiculous given the total thickness is 95mm so I settled on 4mm.

    Attachment 136140

    Then I started on the mast support and at this point I discovered that building a couple of ply boats is not really a grounding for this project. I read the plans looked at lots of pics from other builds and still was left scratching my head. Anyway no point in procrastinating so I cut out some templates and milled the bits there are five in all a centre section for the mast mortice from oregon then two celery top spacers and the outer cheeks which the strakes land on. Clear as mud? I'll show when it's glued up.

    Attachment 136141

    The stern knee is straight forward even for me.

    Attachment 136142

  5. #64
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    Terrific! You're into it...good to see you have a stern knee, you wouldn't want a wobbly one or a dicky one
    What caused the Pacific War? A book to read: here

    http://middlething.blogspot.com/

  6. #65
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    In my last post I mentioned that I have found early on that my boat building experience to date has not really prepared me for some of the challenges with Coquina.

    To explain, one of the first bits to make is the mast support base as part of the backbone assembly. The stem and hog are joined under it so it seems to me accuracy is important having made a pattern I started by thicknessing some stock. Here in is where I started scratching my head.
    The mast mortice is 11/8" and looking at pics of other builds I figure some oregon thicknessed to that dim would allow me to cut the mortice on the bandsaw easy peasy better than me trying to cut by hand.
    But then the stem is shown at 11/4" with an overall width of the support at 3" hmm. Things start getting sticky here how do I allow for 11/4 as the outer cheeks are shown as extending out past the centre moticed part (the pic shows what I mean).
    Anyway my solution was to thickness two shims at about 2mm to space the cheeks........complicated or what.

    Attachment 136669

    It was not until I glued everything up, drilled the mortice drain hole and sanded to the final shape that I realised I could have just chamfered the inner edge of the stem with a few swipes of a spoke shave and saved a lot of bother. All is not lost as I think it has turned out OK it is straight and square that is the main thing.

    Perhaps some kind builder could set me straight here and explain what I should have done.

    I had intended to glue up the inner stem laminations over the weekend but scarfed the ply instead then glued the whole mess up tonight.

    Attachment 136671

    The stem can wait till I have a helper. I have clamped the lams dry to get them to take the curve you can see them released on the floor.

    Attachment 136670

    Cheers
    Mike

  7. #66
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    Blimey, I'm glad I don't have to manage imperial measurements...had forgotten how complicated they could be. I can't begin to understand this issue of yours either without seeing the plans, but I'm sure you have it under control.
    That's an impressive pile to scarf Mike, how are your arms?
    What caused the Pacific War? A book to read: here

    http://middlething.blogspot.com/

  8. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob540 View Post
    Blimey, I'm glad I don't have to manage imperial measurements...had forgotten how complicated they could be. I can't begin to understand this issue of yours either without seeing the plans, but I'm sure you have it under control.
    The large lengths are OK anything over about 2", the problem I have is the fractions so I'm inclined to convert eveything to mm first before divisions and stuff.
    Re the mast thingo I suspect as I begin the assembly and planing out the plank chamfer the correct solution will be clearer. I think the molded (picking up the terminology) width of the cheeks is to get plenty of glued joint with the planks plus as you know it is best to leave things over size and trim last thing when you can especially on boats.

    That's an impressive pile to scarf Mike, how are your arms?
    Good as gold a nice sharp blade and some wax on the sole makes cutting a breeze. I do have a blister on my hand from the jack. The handle is a little too upright worse at the working height but I'm not changing it.

  9. #68
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    If you like I could send a box of off-cuts, chips and saw-dust (from the Look-Busy Boat builders Centre) to spread on your floor. They also do spray on Eye-Brow Dust, and sell filthy aprons for a song.

    To say that I'm impressed with the tidiness of your space would be an understatement. I only have to think about an edge tool and the floor gets filthy. Julia spent Sunday afternoon trying to make sense of the mess I've made since starting the Navigator...sometimes I need to be taken 'in hand'.
    What caused the Pacific War? A book to read: here

    http://middlething.blogspot.com/

  10. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob540 View Post
    If you like I could send a box of off-cuts, chips and saw-dust (from the Look-Busy Boat builders Centre) to spread on your floor. They also do spray on Eye-Brow Dust, and sell filthy aprons for a song.

    To say that I'm impressed with the tidiness of your space would be an understatement. I only have to think about an edge tool and the floor gets filthy. Julia spent Sunday afternoon trying to make sense of the mess I've made since starting the Navigator...sometimes I need to be taken 'in hand'.
    I've got my own thanks including the filthy apron. That pic was after I spent most of Saturday cleaning you should see it now.

    Exciting news I went on a shopping spree today. First call the big green box and straight to the tool department for an 18V Cordless Ryobi saw and trimmer. Rob after looking at all the planks to cut out I remembered your recommendation, they are a trick little thing.

    Second stop was our main timber yard to order some boards. I've been mulling over the choice of wood for the transom and sheerstarkes for a while. The plans call for mahogany now I have got a stash of Huon which would make a nice transom three boards high but I have been unable to find a length of anything suitable for the sheer. The profile is the Herreshoff signiture, oh so elegant but also rather difficult to make and a scarf would quite simply ruin the look.
    So the other day I tentatively rang the yard and enquired about the big M yep the bloke said we got some Brazilian not Honduran and it's the last we can get they are not allowed to export any longer he says.
    I explained what I wanted and the phone went silent then hmm he says 6m don't know about that hang on I'll go and have a look. Waiting...waiting about 10 minutes go by and he proudly announced yep we got one board 5.7 x 275 x 75 your in luck.

    I took a deep bbbbrrrrreath and asked how much, I'm not going to tell you but it was about 30% less than I was expecting so then I ask about shorter lengths yep no worries 3.3 x300x50 is the common size. At the cost it is still very extravagant but I reckon for the design it's worth it the only problem is I'll be soooo nervous when it comes time to cut.

    So today I drooled over the boards and arranged for the milling, they will store the long stuff for the sheerstrakes till I'm ready which is another incentive to move things along. I am a very happy camper cause this weekend I'll be gluing up the transom.

    Cheers a smug Mike

  11. #70
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    Mike, if I remember rightly, you were going to use MDF for the moulds. Have you tried driving screws into the edges? I haven't but I'd hate to see you try to plank the thing and have any screws you use pull out.

    Richard

  12. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daddles View Post
    Mike, if I remember rightly, you were going to use MDF for the moulds. Have you tried driving screws into the edges? I haven't but I'd hate to see you try to plank the thing and have any screws you use pull out.

    Richard
    Your right it is dodgy stuff on edge but all the 19mm ply I seen warps as soon as you look at it. The designer recommends block board but it costs a fortune so I'm thinking I'll do a couple of tests and if the screws start to pull on the tight bends I'll screw some pine blocks to the MDF and screw to them.......carefully.

  13. #72
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    Mate, with the money you're spending on real timbers, how about using chipboard - stable and plenty strong enough to hold the screws. It's what we used at TAFE

    Richard

  14. #73
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    That's a shame about the ply you get there. Some of the 'structural' ply we get here is outstanding. I have a few bits of 18mm that I've used for three or four jobs over the years and they are still flat and true, and begging for another go at helping. One of them is so good it brings me the Sunday papers and my slippers, and the newspaper shop is 6km away! OK that was a lie, but I'm sure it would if I let it out of the shed.
    (actually I could make a little confession here...as long as no-one is listening... one of those bits was a sacrificial (mould) member in the building of my first boat, and I liked it so much, and was so impressed with his lack of voids, and his behaviour in general, I used him to line the inside of my Navigator transom, instead of solid timber. But don't tell the purists)
    What caused the Pacific War? A book to read: here

    http://middlething.blogspot.com/

  15. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daddles View Post
    Mate, with the money you're spending on real timbers, how about using chipboard - stable and plenty strong enough to hold the screws. It's what we used at TAFE

    Richard
    There is chipboard and there is chipboard from my experience at least with what I've used screws don't hold at all well on edge but if you reckon it is OK I'll give it a go. Thanks more shopping

  16. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by m2c1Iw View Post
    There is chipboard and there is chipboard from my experience at least with what I've used screws don't hold at all well on edge but if you reckon it is OK I'll give it a go. Thanks more shopping
    Hmm, now you've got me worried, I just assumed chipboard was chipboard.

    Sixpence was built on (from memory) 19mm chipboard using chipboard screws and we had no worries.

    The 6m boat was built on heavier chipboard and we had no worries with that either, though in that case, we were using bolts to pull the front boards into place. She was built on a strongback made of 6" angle iron - real heavy stuff but there was so much tension in her planks that the ends were lifted a good inch off the floor by the time we had all the planks on

    Redback ... well, the less she intrudes the better.

    That's all the experience I can offer mate and I might be completely off track on this one ... it'd be nice to know if I am seeing lapstrake is in my future too.

    Richard

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